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Old 04-17-2010, 03:44 PM   #1
zuki19
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A few questions concerning motor...

Ok first question

Self porting, any advice? I have access to a machine shop and the tools to do it... not really sure how to do it though...

Blew a headgasket spiking 17 PSI in the GA didnt have an special headgasket they make for our cars boosted, didnt drive car at all when it was blown, my question to you is, what can i use to clean all the coolant out of the block before i put it back together?



I'm putting my LS6 valve springs in also.. but my 1 stock spring is burnt to all hell its blue... what would cause this, fuel injector? valve stuck open or closed?
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:40 AM   #2
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porting the heads? leave it to a pro. you dont want to put it back together and find out a valve isnt seated correctly.as far as cleaning out coolant, just use a rag and soak up most of it, the rest will burn off when its started. and make sure you drain the oil out of the pan now. coolant kills rod bearings and you dont want them soaking in that ****. use a straight edge and feeler gauges to make sure the block didnt warp (cast iron most likely didnt, but better to be safe). seriously, if you never did it before just leave it to a professional. its not worth screwing up.
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:04 AM   #3
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Ok and I noticed grooves at top of my cylinder, is that a terrible thing? or normal wear? they aren't bad at all...
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuki19 View Post
Ok and I noticed grooves at top of my cylinder, is that a terrible thing? or normal wear? they aren't bad at all...


It all depends on how many miles you have. if its a notiable ledge at the top of the cylinder you could be in for problems in the near future. It its a not so noticable ledge at the top you should be ok. Look on a forum called realfierotech.com (try not to stay there to long or mention my name as you wont get your answer for your question but the 3.4 is a commen swap for the fiero and a guy on that fourm named shawn did a nasty turbo setup to his 3.4 camaro block. if there the same head gasket's (dont quote me on it that they are) than he will be able to tell you where you can get a headgasket that can handel that kind of boost.
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:01 PM   #5
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do you mean crosshatching? or actual gouges in the cylinder walls?
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrimerSuspect View Post
do you mean crosshatching? or actual gouges in the cylinder walls?
I think he means the normal "ring" of carbon that builds up on the sleeve at the end of the piston stroke. Which like I said, fairly normal

1) Don't port the head yourself. Port matching the intake manifold and stuff like that is fine, but head porting is a science. If you don't have a clue, you'll probably end up making things worse than better.

2) Like earlier, drain the oil and just wipe up as much of the coolant as you can. It'll burn off the rest on your next startup.
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Relax, bud. When the dude with a drag Honda and a boosted daily that has had fast Honda's for years AND fabs his own parts tells the new kids on the block that they're doing it wrong, it's time to step back and learn something.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:03 PM   #7
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sucks i liked your car...
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:20 PM   #8
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I blew my headgasket, but it was coolant into oil, not coolant into cylinder like you mentioned...

What I plan on doing first start up is running through a "cleaner" oil change. Buy generic synthetic 10w30 oil and crank it till you build oil pressure. Start it, let it run for a few minutes, and shut it off... drain.

Then put in the oil you plan on using. Should force all the stuff that still might be in the oil passages and niche areas out and about.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:54 PM   #9
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Only flaw i ran into now is the guide seats on the heads, they dont let my LS6 springs fit on... I have to read a bit more on LS1,2 and 6 spring swaps on the GA heads... Not sure if LS1 guide will fit in my head or not.. i have all the shims and seals for it to make it work, i think i heard someone saying about grinding it but seems a little bit off the wall...
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Old 04-19-2010, 02:02 PM   #10
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Porting throttle bodies and intakes yourself isn't that tough. I did them on my turbo civic. I even did some slight porting on the intake and exhaust ports on the head to line things up.

I probably went further then I should have.


Once you do this though you need to retune the motor to get it to work with the new air flow.
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Old 04-19-2010, 02:50 PM   #11
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I have a complete 3500 topend you can have for 125 bucks. It needs 1 intake valve IIRC. Lower compression, better flowing, and have under 15k miles on them.

Get the new MLS gaskets from wottech.
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:02 PM   #12
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Can you use the same valves that are in the 3400? I may have a set of manley race valves i can get for the 3400
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:48 PM   #13
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Im not sure if there the same size. The heads are good shape except 1 cylinder has a nick in the dome and a tweaked valve. You may be able to get it straightened at a machine shop but honestly 1 valve from GM is probably under 30 bucks.
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:11 PM   #14
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What's the proper name for this peice...


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Old 04-20-2010, 10:03 PM   #15
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Valve guide?
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:41 PM   #16
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Valve guide.

They are pressed in. You may be able to replace them yourself but I never did it.
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:32 AM   #17
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with the head off they shouldnt be too hard to do. i worked with some old school guys that used to do them with the heads still on the car, so im sure it cant be that difficult
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:11 PM   #18
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it was the valve seat that i needed to take off... now i gotta find ls1 valve seats the stock 3400 one sits overtop of the guide with a seal on the end.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:30 AM   #19
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you better be careful cleanin that coolant out. us 7m guys have a hell of a time. my supra had a bhg around 100k miles and i threw a rod at 117k. and have your heads done professionally on a flow bench...you can actually make it worse by doing it your self by disrupting the airflow thats why it costs so much because flow benchs are mad expensive, the best thing you could possibly do is port matching and idk if u can on your car
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:59 PM   #20
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In my M3 I changed the oil with cheap oil after 1 mile, 10 miles and 100 miles. Overkill, maybe but the engine is worth way too much not to waste $30 of oil.
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