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#1 |
Tri-State Aficionado
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Lansdale
Member #10154
My Ride: 2008 Mitsubishi Evo X, 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL, 1978 Corvette iTrader: (0)
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Evo brakes
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#3 |
Tri-State Addict
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Rotors? If you go aftermarket stock style, I would buy the more expensive option, the cheaper rotors will rust up REAL quickly, my civic has the cheap rotors on them, and they will flash rust overnight, while on my truck i have the more expensive option, and it takes several days of no-driving with rain for them to rust.
If you want aftermarket, stay clear of anything cross-drilled, you are begging for cracking problems on the street. Only go with something thats is dimpled and or slotted. I noticed a night- and day difference with my talon, when i upgraded from stock rotors to powerslots. Less fade, and more bite. Pads- I run hawks, and they are another awesome upgrade over stock. Lines- The rubber lines do go bad, lots of pressure, and theyr expand as you apply pressure to the pedal. For an everyday car, go with rubber replacements, or a stainless steel braided that had a FULL rubber sheild around it. Otherwise, fine dirt gets trapped between the braid and the teflon liner, and acts as an abraisive. This can cause them to fail prematurely. Also, give your brake system a full flush, brake fluid is hydroscopic, and absorbs air-born moisture over time. While theoretically a closed system, water still permeates into the system, and can cause internal corrosion, as well as easier "boiling" of the fluid under hard braking. For me, stainless steel lines, hawk pads, and powerslot rotors made an incredible difference on my 1g talon. I went from unable to lock-up; to lock-up with fade; to lock up with VERY little fade.(haven't pushed it super hard tho)
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2001 Dakota Quad Cab, 1996 Ford F250, 1993 Honda Civic, 1991 Eagle Talon, 1970 Plymouth Duster. |
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#4 | |
Tri-State Post Whore
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Quote:
![]() Honestly though, ferodo dsds2500 pads and stop tech rotors.. Excellent parts and the stop techs arent super expensive. IF the dealer told you the brakes are worn make sure you check for yourself because they try to rape you that way when u dont even need it.
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#5 |
Tri-State Addict
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i would say cut the rotors if you can! and new pads!
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Blue Bug Eye In The 12's Pics: http://greatsave9.smugmug.com/MotorSports/WRXZ/10911569_VKqaF#761891910_ojmhM |
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#6 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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I love DS2500s. Girodisc makes nice rotors too.
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#7 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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How many miles? And who told you that?
I'd go with the Brembo Big Brake kit, but front & rear costs $8,000 without labor. Sexy as hell, though... it's something I am looking to do down the road. |
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#8 |
Tri-State Addict
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if you've put some serious miles on the car i wouldn't doubt that you need new brakes and rotors, on both my 03 EVO and 05 EVO i needed brakes at about 18k miles and the rotors were shot. the stock brembo's tend to be a bit soft and the pad's eat them up. I would definitely stay away from OEM stuff. stop tech stuff is very nice and they are reasonably priced.
I have almost 10k miles on my X and i' curious myself how the brakes are wearing. How many miles on your rid?
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#9 |
Tri-State Aficionado
Join Date: Jun 2006
Member #2090
My Ride: 93 Eagle Talon TSI AWD(The Racecar), 02 Audi A4(The Daily) iTrader: (2)
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Cutting rotors is a thing of the past and a bad idea if you do any performance driving. Most OEM's spec anymore only allow for 1mm of wear anyway(i.e. if a new rotor is 24mm thick, the wear limit is usually 23mm) so you dont have enought to cut off without going below minimum. And after you cut the rotor there is of course less material to dissapate heat so they overheat and fade faster, not to mention warp.
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Doug |
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#10 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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DBA4000 rotors and hawk hp+ pads
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