building a 400whp 4g63

[Soon2bG60]

Hey guys, a friend just bought a 95 gsx, and hes looking to get up to 400whp the cheapest, but most reliable way, I thought of this, but wasnt sure and wanted to see what you guys think, if we go with First gen eclipse head, Intake manifold, And throttle body [ larger port right? ], larger turbo, fmic and a 272 degree cam, and get a larger Throttle body plate, and get it tuned, think we can make 400 wheel?

And then he popped the crank walk question like everyone else right? I read somewere that its usallly a result of using to heavy of a clutch pressure plate, or too tight of a thrust clearence, and that a 2,500 single diaphragm clutch will piss of the thrust bearing? so what about a twin plate clutch?

[TalonTsi97]

If you cheap out now it will cost you more in the long run especially if your asking these kind of questions.
Join dsmtalk, and dsmtuners and begin researching.

[Soon2bG60]

were not trying to cheap out, read the first sentence.

[t3turbogs]

I have had 2 GSX’s both with ACT 2600. no crank walk. 3 of my friends have 7 bolt dsms with ACT 2600 still no crank walk. all my time as a dsmer and I have only seen it ones. and even if it happens you will have a good reason to billed a motor and make even more power!

[Soon2bG60]

thanks for the response t3.

Anyone know anything about the 1g parts and all?

[t3turbogs]

Originally Posted by Soon2bG60

thanks for the response t3.

Anyone know anything about the 1g parts and all?

take TalonTsi97 advice on that. from what ive heard the 2g head and manifold are more efficient and awesome ported. as far as the 1g head and manifold you get the most air flow. its debatable. again this is what ive heard and you should definitely research on tuners. all the infos there.

[Soon2bG60]

yeah he dont wanna cheap out in anyway, i was just asking a simple question to see if that would do it.

[Got Insulin?]

Before he does ANYTHING, make sure he does the timing belt and the water pump because they are notorious for crapping out on these cars. While he's in there, he can do the cams, too. After that, before anything: Maintence, manintence, maintence. 400 is an interesting number. Does he want just 400, or does he want room to grow? There are so many setup options, I'd agree with Chip, join DSMtalk, and then search for the "So you want 350/400 HP?" thread and come back to us from there.

[A32 Maxima]

1st. Mitsu. 3 0r 4 layer Headgasket
2nd. ARP Studs
3rd. 272's
4th. B16g Turbo or Evo III B16g Turbo
5th. 650cc Injectors
6th. 3in Turbo back exhaust
7th. FMIC
8th. ACT 2600 PP w/ Street disk
9th. Wideband/datalogger/SAFC-I or II/DSM Link

[SpendOne]

Easy....sell his 2g and buy my 1g. Ill detune it for 400 awhp.

[gdmbat85]

Well you only get to pick 2 - fast, cheap, reliable.

Assuming you go with fast and reliable, you might as well start by pulling out the motor and rebuilding it. You're going to need to do some headwork, headstuds, clutch, headgasket if you wanna be safe, and possibly internal work. Then from there it's DSMlink, and bolt ons such as 850+ injectors, pump, FMIC, maybe an FP3052, SMIM, etc etc. I can make you an entire list of parts and suggestions if your friend really wants. Also there are alot of places where you can find suggested upgrade paths.

[dragonfly2k3]

Originally Posted by A32 Maxima

1st. Mitsu. 3 0r 4 layer Headgasket
2nd. ARP Studs
3rd. 272's
4th. B16g Turbo or Evo III B16g Turbo
5th. 650cc Injectors
6th. 3in Turbo back exhaust
7th. FMIC
8th. ACT 2600 PP w/ Street disk
9th. Wideband/datalogger/SAFC-I or II/DSM Link

so wheres the other half of the list?
Things i notice right away, is that you put on an afc. You have no pump, or fpr listed, no form of boost control, a 16g will be getting to its upper limits at 400whp. There are A TON of things that go into making power. You see everything we have listed, but then we all forget about things like fuel filters, braided line from filter to rail, fuel rails, etc, etc. It adds up FAST. I would start off with ALOT of maintenance. Do a t-belt, tensioner, wp, balance elim kit, check bearings for tolerance, ARP headstuds, etc, etc, etc.

Also, remember that there is ALOT more than just the motor to look at. With 400whp, he will want to look into a newer/lower mileage, or maybe even built trans, axles, tcase, rear, etc. And once you start moving fast you need to be able to handel at speeds, and be able to stop from speeds.

[Driven]

DSM'ers like to over complicate things. A stock 6 bolt or 7 bolt is fine for 400 HP for thousands of miles as long as it's tuned properly and well maintained. Don't waste money on a forged internal motor that isn't necessary for your goals.

A 16G will be pushing it at 400HP so you might want to look at something like a bolt on 50 trim or 20G. They are a little on the old school side these days but they work well at 400HP on pump gas.

You'll need a fuel pump, fuel injectors and an AFPR. Nothing else needs to be done to the fuel system. I was going 133 MPH traps on the stock fuel lines and filter all the way to the rail. They are fine at 400HP. Of course this assumes you at least have a new fuel filter on the car, 100k mile filters don't exactly flow like new any more.

7 bolts don't crankwalk nearly as often as everyone makes them out to. I had an ACT 2600 on mine for ~30k miles with no crankwalk.

My advice to the original poster, get ECMLink and learn how to tune the car the way it is now. Make sure everything is in proper working order then begin upgrading. You can get the fuel system setup as well as the tuning set up so that you are ready to throw a bigger IC and turbo on and can rock and roll. Take it slow though, if you throw all the parts on a stock car at once, you'll probably be in for a world of problems.

[Soon2bG60]

alright thanks laot guys! this all helps alot, and in no way do we want to cheap out, he just wants to go the cheapest way while still remaining reliable.
thanks again guys.

[A32 Maxima]

well iam parting out my 6-bolt if you need 272 cams, 1g head, 1g block so let me know