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#1 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: norristown
Member #5883
My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)
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correct camber on my s13?
my 240sx is lowered on a silly set of nex coilovers. honestly they do the job pretty good, except for lack of camber plates so as it sits, the camber is a kind of funky. the rear wheels are way negativato and the fronts are close to zero. the car handles great as is. but the rear camber is just too much for the drag strip. i want to bring the back wheels back closer to zero camber. well, not all the way, but atleast some sort of improvement from where they are now. does anyone know anything about the camber bolts i see around? how exactly do they work and would they work for me? or should i try to notch out the holes for the coilover mount lol its not a big deal, its just that i picked up a set of drag radials and i figure it wouldnt even be worth using them if i cant get the whole tire touching the ground. when i do a burnout as it is now, you can clearly see the inside of the tires leaving dark rubber and the outsides a lot lighter. so what should i do? btw, i dont want to put back on my stock blown out struts/springs. i know this would be better for the strip and would correct my camber but ef that i know this pic is ****, but maybe it will help you get the slightest idea of how the car sits
Last edited by frosti108; 08-08-2008 at 02:04 AM. |
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#2 |
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Vendor
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: telford Pa
Member #3958
My Ride: the one in the back of the shop iTrader: (2)
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you gonna need rear camber arms and rear toe arms to get the rear suspension in spec. We carry all those in stock as well as, we are able to align it. let me know if you are interested, thanx
__________________
Philadelphia Area's Only Authorized and Factory Trained Pro Tuners for:HONDATA:UPREV:APEXI POWER FC:AEM:COBB:ECUTEK To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#3 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: norristown
Member #5883
My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)
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thanks.
have you heard of or experienced this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...4506.m20.l1116 |
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#4 | |
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TST Ruined My Life!
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From what I've heard, (and this is strictly heard) any OBX/Megan Racing suspension components are fine to rock daily UNTIL you drive it hard for any kind of motorsport. I've heard too many stories about parts failing when being pushed hard. Again, I have no actual experience with them.
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*mike* <-- Master of Baiting Quote:
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#5 |
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Tri-State Aficionado
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for the rear you need these- Rear Upper Control Arms(RUCAs)
For the front you need these- camber plates ![]() don't use that ching chong meow ebay ****. it looks like a bolt and nut with a slotted washer. Retarded At the absolute worst get megan racing ****. |
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#10 | |
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Vendor
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: telford Pa
Member #3958
My Ride: the one in the back of the shop iTrader: (2)
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Quote:
__________________
Philadelphia Area's Only Authorized and Factory Trained Pro Tuners for:HONDATA:UPREV:APEXI POWER FC:AEM:COBB:ECUTEK To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#11 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: norristown
Member #5883
My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)
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lol well i drive my car pretty damn hard mostly everytime i drive it so i guess i cant use those bolts. arent those single sided RUCAs for the s14? i thought the s13 has the full circle ones. anyway i guess i need some new RUCAs. i think that dude jay from phoenixville has a set for me
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#14 | |
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Tri-State Aficionado
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Quote:
the full circle RUCAs are an older s13 only design if you want a ghetto way for more front camber, use s14 FLCAs, but you should have camber plates
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-Will |
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#15 |
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Vendor
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: telford Pa
Member #3958
My Ride: the one in the back of the shop iTrader: (2)
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yea Will is right.....
__________________
Philadelphia Area's Only Authorized and Factory Trained Pro Tuners for:HONDATA:UPREV:APEXI POWER FC:AEM:COBB:ECUTEK To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#17 |
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Tri-State Addict
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Stroudsburg, PA (Poconos)
Member #2832
My Ride: 97 Nissan 240sx iTrader: (2)
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Why not just raise the car up a little in the meantime??
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Cody Ace 1997 Nissan 240sx - SR20+GT2871r .64 power (400whp/330ft lbs) "Engine Response > Big Dyno HP" 1996 Nissan Maxima - VQ30DE Autotragic 165whp/175ft lbs "237,000 miles" Do you want AC to work in your SR swapped 240? PM me to find out how... |
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#18 | |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: norristown
Member #5883
My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)
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Quote:
well the coilovers are junk. the threads for the height adjustment are all gunked up and without heavy hits to a chisel, they dont like to move lol i was seriously considering putting the stock rear struts in for the drag strip though. its really not too hard, and i guess the car would look kinda crazy with a drag car rake like that im such a hillbilly |
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#19 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: norristown
Member #5883
My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)
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does anyone know if a 17x7 +40mm wheel will fit on the back of an s13? this is what my drag radials are on. i may have to get some spacers
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#20 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Philly PA
Member #1961
My Ride: BMW E60 M5 V10 6 Speed --- Ducati Monster 696 iTrader: (4)
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dude do it right... im in the same situation your in.. my new del sol blew out a tire going 25 in princeton ( 5 month old kumhos) i swap it and notice the inner side is worn to the metal on both front tires! turns out my car was droped too much to not have adjustable cambers... thank god i noticed it when i did.. i take ramps at like 65 in this car... **** i even need new bushings
do it right and you will love your suspension... plus its nice not worrying about cheap ebay parts breaking and causing u to crash the car |
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