Uprated Clutches: Full Face Kevlar vs 6 Puck Carbon Metallic

[Raven18940]

My standard clutch is starting to die (it's engaging very high these days) so I'm starting to research clutches now and how to change it (involves dropping the subframe on my car). So what am I looking for in a clutch, I need something that can take some abuse. I slip the clutch a lot on launch and dump it at full throttle on gear changes. I want the ability to launch at full throttle in second gear, as 1st is torque limited so there's no change in acceleration between 1st and 2nd, and the 1-2 shift is a painful one on my tranny. I have 235whp and 240 wtq now, and plan to increase that to about 300whp and 320+wtq in a year or so when I graduate. However, I still daily drive this car so I don't wanna go crazy and end up with something so harsh in the engagement that it's a pain to drive.

My options, SPEC clutches. Sorry, no one else makes performance clutches for a saab 9-5. Stage 1's are organic, which I'm not interested in. Also the clutch has to be sprung, my engine has too much vibration to really consider an unsprung. Plus I want the more forgiving engagement.

Stage 2 - Full face kevlar (Street, Drag, Pulling, Autocross)
Stage 2+ - Full face kevlar/carbon (Street, Drag, Road Race, Rallye, Pulling, Autocross)
Stage 3 - 6 puck carbon semi-metallic (Street, Drag, Drift, Road Race, Rallye, Pulling, Autocross)

So what are the advantages and disadvantages of a Full-face disc versus a 6 puck disc?

[turbo4g63]

Originally Posted by Raven18940

So what are the advantages and disadvantages of a Full-face disc versus a 6 puck disc?

puck styles tend to be very chattery, and have harsh engagement/disengagement. They also tend to wear out fairly quickly when driven daily on the street. They are good for drag racing applications though.

disk style is what i prefer and what i would recommend to you. Since you stated that you want to DD the car. I have a ACT 2600 in my car which is good for around 400hp. Engagement is smooth and not chattery at all. it doesn't make any noise like puck clutches do. You can drag race with them/slip them if you want, but if you heat it up too much it will glaze over and you'll need a new disk. I'm surpised that act doesn't make one for your application, they make clutches for most cars.

i don't know if i would reccomend a spec clutch to anyone, i hear a lot of negative feedback from them.

[Raven18940]

Originally Posted by turbo4g63

puck styles tend to be very chattery, and have harsh engagement/disengagement. They also tend to wear out fairly quickly when driven daily on the street. They are good for drag racing applications though.

disk style is what i prefer and what i would recommend to you. Since you stated that you want to DD the car. I have a ACT 2600 in my car which is good for around 400hp. Engagement is smooth and not chattery at all. it doesn't make any noise like puck clutches do. You can drag race with them/slip them if you want, but if you heat it up too much it will glaze over and you'll need a new disk. I'm surpised that act doesn't make one for your application, they make clutches for most cars.

i don't know if i would reccomend a spec clutch to anyone, i hear a lot of negative feedback from them.

Thanks for the advice, and believe me I wish I had more options than spec, but i've checked out ACT and many other clutch manufacturers, spec is it.

[NOPSTNS]

i used to have a 6 puc unsprung on my old beater as a joke, it was hilarious to chirp third at 1200 rpm but became a total bitch after 12 miles of on and off.

pucs grab, theres no slipping, its either on or off. not fun for DD

id say get the stage 2+
carbon takes a beatin, but just one q, will u be doin a flywheel too? if u were to go thru the hell of doin a clutch on anything that isnt rwd, id be sure to change as much in there as possible so u dont need to do it again soon....

lowest for weight ive seen was 8 lbs. anything under 10 lbs is seriously light.....

[mattcosta7]

I'm running an act 6 puck sprung. It's definitely a learning curve, but I love how I can feel it engage correctly, and as such you either learn to shift at the exact rpm, or you feel it / wear it. I don't think it's for everyone. And I don't know whether most DDs will enjoy it. Definitely a completely different feel. As for wear, i've barely got 1000 miles on it....more like 500 actually.

If you're in stop and go traffic, get a full face. if you don't see much stopping, a 6 puck may be worth trying out.

[Raven18940]

Originally Posted by NOPSTNS

id say get the stage 2+
carbon takes a beatin, but just one q, will u be doin a flywheel too? if u were to go thru the hell of doin a clutch on anything that isnt rwd, id be sure to change as much in there as possible so u dont need to do it again soon....

lowest for weight ive seen was 8 lbs. anything under 10 lbs is seriously light.....

My flywheel is 22 lbs, and the only aftermarket option is a 15 lb-er for $600 imported from England. So I'm just going to resurface the stocker, plus for everyday getting around I like the heavy flywheel and for performance I know how to use the heavy one. That's why I want a clutch that can take slippage and not crap out on me, cause that's how you use a heavy wheel. My engine only revs to 6500, the heavier flywheel keeps the revs nice and smooth, and the torque good when off boost.

I'm considering combining a stage 3 6 puck disc with the lighter, stock pressure plate, that might give me the greater bite I want without going nuts.

[mattcosta7]

Originally Posted by Raven18940

My flywheel is 22 lbs, and the only aftermarket option is a 15 lb-er for $600 imported from England. So I'm just going to resurface the stocker, plus for everyday getting around I like the heavy flywheel and for performance I know how to use the heavy one. That's why I want a clutch that can take slippage and not crap out on me, cause that's how you use a heavy wheel. My engine only revs to 6500, the heavier flywheel keeps the revs nice and smooth, and the torque good when off boost.

I'm considering combining a stage 3 6 puck disc with the lighter, stock pressure plate, that might give me the greater bite I want without going nuts.

The pressure plate is the part that holds the torque, whereas the clutch disc itself is more about engagment, and mating strength. If you stay stock on the pressure plate, you may end up with premature wear on the clutch, since it wil have to provide more of the gripping force than intended to.

[Raven18940]

Originally Posted by mattcosta7

The pressure plate is the part that holds the torque, whereas the clutch disc itself is more about engagment, and mating strength. If you stay stock on the pressure plate, you may end up with premature wear on the clutch, since it wil have to provide more of the gripping force than intended to.

I'm looking at clutches that will hold more tq than I plan on making so I'm not really worried about that.

[zerioustt]

Originally Posted by NOPSTNS

i used to have a 6 puc unsprung on my old beater as a joke, it was hilarious to chirp third at 1200 rpm but became a total bitch after 12 miles of on and off.

pucs grab, theres no slipping, its either on or off. not fun for DD

id say get the stage 2+
carbon takes a beatin, but just one q, will u be doin a flywheel too? if u were to go thru the hell of doin a clutch on anything that isnt rwd, id be sure to change as much in there as possible so u dont need to do it again soon....

lowest for weight ive seen was 8 lbs. anything under 10 lbs is seriously light.....

you can slip a puc, if you cant you cant drive.


this is a properly broken in spec stage 3+ after a proper break in and 1 time getting on it. kevlar is for stopping bullets, not for clutches.

[Raven18940]

Originally Posted by zerioustt

you can slip a puc, if you cant you cant drive.


this is a properly broken in spec stage 3+ after a proper break in and 1 time getting on it. kevlar is for stopping bullets, not for clutches.

Holy crap, did you just strip the friction material right?!?

[mattcosta7]

Originally Posted by Raven18940

Holy crap, did you just strip the friction material right?!?

looks like it definitely is stripped to ****. Ill assume that's one more vote for a 6 puck

[peteyturbo]

more like one more vote NOT to buy a spec clutch..I could post up dozens of other peoples horror stories..

[RayArroyo]

Originally Posted by peteyturbo

more like one more vote NOT to buy a spec clutch..I could post up dozens of other peoples horror stories..

oh no spec, i have 7 personal horror stories from my srt-4 days. i went through 7 spec clutches in 5 months. i even have documentation on these events

[CHAOS]

i have never had a problem with a spec clutch... i had a 6 puck sprung hub on my old car and it held up to all kinds of abuse... and it does chatter a bit but its minimal

[RayArroyo]

Originally Posted by CHAOS

i have never had a problem with a spec clutch... i had a 6 puck sprung hub on my old car and it held up to all kinds of abuse... and it does chatter a bit but its minimal

umm how much power was your old car making