best piston ring material - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

liz · 09-04-2007, 12:13 PM

Chrome moly or ductile iron for a 6-bolt 2g talon with a 50 trim and high boost? I've heard conflicting reviews about both. Auto-parts stores claim chrome moly is better for the application. Techs claim chrome moly is for racing and chrome is for off-road and will never break-in, therefore they will never seat right. I think someone even told me chrome will scratch the block. Any opinions are appreciated!

NOPSTNS · 09-04-2007, 10:35 PM

how bout carbon ceramic.....

jk....
i vote iron

ThePrimerSuspect · 09-04-2007, 10:37 PM

well, ive never actually built a motor, but i do remember when my friend built his trans am motor with chrome moly rings, it smoked like crazy. it used to burn about a quart a week because the rings never properly seated. i know its probably a lot more complex than that, compression would suffer if the rings dont seat correctly from the very begining.

Renegade_ · 09-04-2007, 10:39 PM

You need to hone the cylinder walls based on what kind of piston ring material you have. I don't know specifics and I don't know details, all I know is that no matter what kind of piston ring you use, make sure that you get the block honed specifically for it and you should be fine.

liz · 09-05-2007, 03:55 PM

Iron rings have been ordered. They're cheaper anyway which is good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePrimerSuspect

well, ive never actually built a motor, but i do remember when my friend built his trans am motor with chrome moly rings, it smoked like crazy. it used to burn about a quart a week because the rings never properly seated. i know its probably a lot more complex than that, compression would suffer if the rings dont seat correctly from the very begining.

speaking of smoking, to get the rings to seat correctly is it true that you break them in by doing third gear pulls?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renegade_

You need to hone the cylinder walls based on what kind of piston ring material you have. I don't know specifics and I don't know details, all I know is that no matter what kind of piston ring you use, make sure that you get the block honed specifically for it and you should be fine.

already have that covered, but thanks!

**TROLL** · 09-05-2007, 04:13 PM

there are many philosophies on break in... some start out with low rpm driving and no boost, then gradually go into higher rpms and gradually into boost. others beat the hell out of it right away. i prefer to take it easy at first and gradually get into it but i'm sure jess will be here any minute to tell me that i'm an idiot

assault187 · 09-05-2007, 05:41 PM

When I broke my engine in, I drove normally for about 200 miles then switched from 17 psi to 22 psi and just beat the hell out of it....seems to have worked well.....

NOPSTNS · 09-06-2007, 11:58 PM

i drove less than 3k rpms for the first 600 miles, then less than 6k for the next 400 miles, then less than 9k for the next 500 then it was and oil change and then anything goes....

liz · 09-07-2007, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOPSTNS

i drove less than 3k rpms for the first 600 miles, then less than 6k for the next 400 miles, then less than 9k for the next 500 then it was and oil change and then anything goes....

I don't think driving under 3k rpm's is possible. I vote balls to the wall in 3rd.

TrboChicsRock · 09-07-2007, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TROLL

there are many philosophies on break in... some start out with low rpm driving and no boost, then gradually go into higher rpms and gradually into boost. others beat the hell out of it right away. i prefer to take it easy at first and gradually get into it but i'm sure jess will be here any minute to tell me that i'm an idiot

You're an idiot

I use ductile iron rings.

Edit: They are made by Total Seal - http://www.totalseal.com/

My break-in of my motor consisted of starting it up and letting it run for about 10 minutes. Shut it off, changed the oil and filter. Then took it out, first taking it to 5k rpms, then letting the engine slow itself down on its own. Then 6k, 7k, ect. Then changed the oil. I don't even think my motor had 500 miles on it before I was at the track. Just vary your RPM's a lot and let the engine slow itself down and you'll be good to go.

**TROLL** · 09-07-2007, 11:34 AM

you had like 128 miles on it when you ran an 11.2!

Action Park · 09-07-2007, 01:38 PM

93
Childs & Albert ftw, total seal ftl. The engine builder broke my cam in for 20 min @ 2500 or so(I think), then I just drove it normally/aggressively to break in the rest of the engine. Perhaps it's different for other cars, but the cam is the only thing that requires a formal break in for aircooled t1 engines. Flat cams and pitted lifters are very common nowadays for t1's, but that is probably due to different hardness levels of the cam/lifter combo.
93 93/93

NOPSTNS · 09-07-2007, 05:35 PM

when i went to uti and we built crate engines for t buckets we were taught 20 mins at 2k. shut it down and change the oil. and depending on if u went race engine or street engine was how ud break it in afterwards, each normally meaning an oil change evry 20 seconds of runtime until u hit 500 miles.....

that 20 mins at 2k is for cam break in....so nice to be blessed to not deal with that prob! yay!

SoStock92 · 09-11-2007, 05:19 PM

One thing to consider if you do end up using chromoly rings is doing oil analysis with every change. the chromoly tends to shed and deposit itself in your engine where it is most evident in the oil. Its a good way, for cheap, to keep an eye on things.

evomike · 09-11-2007, 05:28 PM

cardboard is best

09-04-2007, 12:13 PM	#1
liz Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Hellertown Member #5632 My Ride: 97 Eclipse GSX iTrader: (0)	best piston ring material Chrome moly or ductile iron for a 6-bolt 2g talon with a 50 trim and high boost? I've heard conflicting reviews about both. Auto-parts stores claim chrome moly is better for the application. Techs claim chrome moly is for racing and chrome is for off-road and will never break-in, therefore they will never seat right. I think someone even told me chrome will scratch the block. Any opinions are appreciated! Last edited by liz; 09-04-2007 at 01:37 PM.

09-04-2007, 10:39 PM	#4
Renegade_ Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: NNJ/NYC Member #1912 My Ride: 1J Swaggon iTrader: (2)	You need to hone the cylinder walls based on what kind of piston ring material you have. I don't know specifics and I don't know details, all I know is that no matter what kind of piston ring you use, make sure that you get the block honed specifically for it and you should be fine. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

09-05-2007, 05:41 PM	#7
assault187 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Montgomery county Member #2176 My Ride: 97 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Spyder AWD iTrader: (3)	When I broke my engine in, I drove normally for about 200 miles then switched from 17 psi to 22 psi and just beat the hell out of it....seems to have worked well..... __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. World record holder for Quickest and Fastest 1/4 mile Spyder, 4 cylinder vert, 1st in 10's, 2.0L 4G63 Holset record, Modified Mag December 2010, Self built, self tuned.

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09-04-2007, 10:35 PM	#2
NOPSTNS Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Los Angeles, CA Member #3176 iTrader: (0)	how bout carbon ceramic..... jk.... i vote iron

09-04-2007, 10:37 PM	#3
ThePrimerSuspect Tri-State Addict Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: philly Member #1241 iTrader: (0)	well, ive never actually built a motor, but i do remember when my friend built his trans am motor with chrome moly rings, it smoked like crazy. it used to burn about a quart a week because the rings never properly seated. i know its probably a lot more complex than that, compression would suffer if the rings dont seat correctly from the very begining.

09-06-2007, 11:58 PM	#8
NOPSTNS Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Los Angeles, CA Member #3176 iTrader: (0)	i drove less than 3k rpms for the first 600 miles, then less than 6k for the next 400 miles, then less than 9k for the next 500 then it was and oil change and then anything goes....

09-07-2007, 01:38 PM	#12
Action Park Tri-State Addict Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: The Fugue Member #2802 My Ride: bug and a rabbit iTrader: (0)	93 Childs & Albert ftw, total seal ftl. The engine builder broke my cam in for 20 min @ 2500 or so(I think), then I just drove it normally/aggressively to break in the rest of the engine. Perhaps it's different for other cars, but the cam is the only thing that requires a formal break in for aircooled t1 engines. Flat cams and pitted lifters are very common nowadays for t1's, but that is probably due to different hardness levels of the cam/lifter combo. 93 93/93

09-07-2007, 05:35 PM	#13
NOPSTNS Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Los Angeles, CA Member #3176 iTrader: (0)	when i went to uti and we built crate engines for t buckets we were taught 20 mins at 2k. shut it down and change the oil. and depending on if u went race engine or street engine was how ud break it in afterwards, each normally meaning an oil change evry 20 seconds of runtime until u hit 500 miles..... that 20 mins at 2k is for cam break in....so nice to be blessed to not deal with that prob! yay!

09-11-2007, 05:19 PM	#14
SoStock92 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Apr 2006 Member #1721 My Ride: 92 BMW 525, 95 BMW 525, 87 BMW 325, 95 BMW 530 iTrader: (0)	One thing to consider if you do end up using chromoly rings is doing oil analysis with every change. the chromoly tends to shed and deposit itself in your engine where it is most evident in the oil. Its a good way, for cheap, to keep an eye on things.

09-11-2007, 05:28 PM	#15
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	cardboard is best