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#1 |
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Tri-State Addict
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Rotor and Pad Suggestions Please
Anyone have suggestions on brands, reviews? Any help appreciated, thanks. |
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#3 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
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Vented and cross-drilled have the possibility of not letting the brake pads reach the correct working temperature.
Unless you do some sort of road racing or auto-x, vented rotors are a wasted on a street car. I would just stick to a good set of pads and braided stainless steel lines.
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#6 |
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Tri-State Addict
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Trust me, slotted rotors are not a waste on the street, cross-drilled, however, are.
Most Cross drilled rotors are not meant to be run on the street, on a DD because they have a tendency to crack due to the way the heat is dissipated throughtout the rotor. On a car that is sponsored, and is getting new rotors, every coupla track days, they are great, but for the street, they are not worth the risk. Slotted however, are a real beaut. On my talon, the slotted increased my braking ability, and reduced fade greatly. On most stock setups, after a few hard stops, the brakes are about useless. I am running hawk HPS pads in the front, wagner pads in the rear, powerslot rotors all around, and stainless steel lines all around. You don't need the hawk pads in the rear, a nice set of autoparts ones will do, mainly due to the fact that your car is setup for the front brakes to do most of the work. Hawk pads in the rears is a waste, unless you are running on the track. My braking ability is awesome, and improved tenfold just by adding the slotted rotors with stock pads.
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2001 Dakota Quad Cab, 1996 Ford F250, 1993 Honda Civic, 1991 Eagle Talon, 1970 Plymouth Duster. |
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#7 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
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i agree about the drilled rotors cracking. but u also need to look at whos making them. i had drilled rotors on my tiburon and they went to cracks within a few weeks of hard street driving.
my brembo bbk has drilled rotors and i have road raced with them doin 130mph stops for 6, 20 min stints and they are still like new..... first lets all start with a "what r u planning to do with ur car" before we start giving advice..... if it will jsut be driven around the street ur gonna need a dif setup than if ur gonna autox..... if ur gonna road race ur gonna need a diff setup than autox if ur gonna drag race ull need a diff setup from road race if its for ur tiburon then its gonna be a very front biased brake system, even more so if u have the 2.7, somethin to keep in mind when spending 300 bucks for race pads goin on the rear. see what i mean fellas? Last edited by NOPSTNS; 07-18-2007 at 08:26 PM. |
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#8 |
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Tri-State Addict
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I agree whole heartedly with the above.
Like i said, slotted rotors make a world of difference above the stockers, its not so much the heat disapating factor of them, its also that they keep the pads "cleaner" during hard and moderate use, by letting the vaporizing pad material to escape through a quicker path. Even if you add slotted rotors and stock style pads, you will notice a braking change. But again, for all-around driving, I stand by powerslots all around, Hawks in front, and OEM style in rear. The hawks are not loud, don't create tons of dust, i drive my car up to 90 miles a day with work and play, and they stay pretty clean. Even after 40 minutes on I95, or stop and go, my braking ability still outweights the traction my tires can deliver.
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2001 Dakota Quad Cab, 1996 Ford F250, 1993 Honda Civic, 1991 Eagle Talon, 1970 Plymouth Duster. |
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#10 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
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Everybody is ranting and raving about the HPSs so I would guess that is the way to go. I have Cobb pads on my car but last I know of Cobb doesn't do parts for Tiburons
A brembo slotted rotor is a good investment I think as it doesn't carry the risk of cracking. Why not have a rotor where it dissipates the gases from the pad quicker and you basically lose almost zero rotor face? I would say go for slotted Brembos and HPSs.
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#11 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
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i still dont kno what ur gonna do with the brakes, will u do road racing or autox or just street drving or drag racing? if ur gonna be street drivng then the hps are fine, but if u get the hp plus and u do street driving u will hate urself, ua gotta watch the particulars about brake kits bc itll hang u if u mess it up! ive learned the hard way on MY tiburon.....had freakin race brakes on it that needed heat to get em to work best and had drilled rotors that cost 80 bucks a piece (thats cheap, in case u were wondering) and they cracked in a few weeks.....
last i heard hyundai had drileld rotors for third gen tibs and also had red calipers for them....maybe u can do the conversion? thro in somepads, new fluids.....thatd be cool! let us kno WHAT ull be doin with the car......! |
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#12 | |
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TST Ruined My Life!
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northampton, PA
Member #1638
My Ride: 2004 Hyundai Tiburon iTrader: (1)
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Yea I wish I would have done things a bit different with my tib and if I were to do it over again today, I would go with that setup. I actually have one correction to that though. I would use OEM pads in the rear.
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#14 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
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EBC greens all around. hawk HPS is overrated...
stay away from porterfield kevlar pads, i'm using them right now they're very squeaky when hot and the dust like you wouldn't believe also, i really disagree with using cross drilled or slotted rotors for street use. i don't care what anyone says you arn't going to be pushing you car hard enough and driving in conditions that will provide any benifet, all you're doing is losing breaking power by sacrificing surface area
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#15 |
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Tri-State Post Whore
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i run power slot rotors and hawk hps pads....so far i like that combo best for my car...the next time i do my brakes i am gonna pic up some stainless lines as well. The pads are extremely quiet, they have not squeaked one time since they were installed...the also wear out very well, i have between 15-20 thousand miles on the fronts and i just checked and they still have a lot of life left in them
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Bill If you guys see a possum...try to kill it, it's not a pet! |
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