Nitrous 101

[GDM Z28]

-=[ Special Thanks to Jeremy @ NX, Ray @ NO, and LS1tech]=-

Nitrous Accessories:

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. I suggest tuning your Nitrous system with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop and you won't get the most out of your Nitrous kit.

2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than putting on a show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to clear the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. You can also use the purge kit to purge out excessive bottle pressure.

3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. Different companies make different bottle mount gauges, as well as ****pit gauges so you can check the pressure with out getting out of the driver seat.

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. The most common gauges that are used to keep an eye on your fuel pressure are mechanical Autometer gauges for your engine bay or Autometer elec. gauges for the inside of your car.

5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay and shut off your motor.

6. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.

7. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

8. Blow Down Tube: In order to meet Track requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc bursts.

9. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid. (I never use one)

10. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the driver seat.

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GM Master Jet List for different Nitrous Systems:

All info taken from installation manuals and/or verbal confirmation from a rep.

NX Ls1 jetting list from NX website RWHP RATED....GM Stg.1 EFI system, part number 20920

Single jet:

50HP 35N 18F
75HP 41N 22F
100HP 52N 28F
150HP 62N 33F

NOS jetting 5177 kit DRY FLYWHEEL RATED 900-1000psi rated
Dual jets:

75HP 28N
85HP 30N
100HP 32N

NOS jetting 5168 kit wet for LS1 RWHP RATED 900-1000psi rated
single jet plate system:

75HP 41N 28F
100HP 51N 31F
125HP 55N 35F
150HP 63N 38F

TNT wet kit for power ring RWHP RATED 900psi bottle 60psi fuel -6an feed
dual jets:

100HP 35N 22F
150HP 42N 25F
200HP 51N 28F
250HP 55N 31F
300HP 63N 35F
350HP 67N 39F

This is another NOS chart from the COLONEL

HP-- Single N2O--Dual N2O--Single Fuel
25 .024
30 .026
35 .028 .020
50 .037 .024 .020
75 .042 .028 .022
100 .047 .032 .025
125 .055 .038 .029
150 .063 .044 .034
175 .070 .052 .038
200 .082 .047 .044
250 .093 .055 .050

DynoTune Dry Kit HP numbers based on 950 PSI

Single Dry Jetting DynoTune Kit

50 BHP=.032
75 BHP=.042
100 BHP=.048

Dual Dry Shot Jetting

50 RWHP=.026
75 RWHP=.032
100 RWHP=.036



Here is a rough quick conversion for single to dual and dual to single jets
as per Robert56

" here's the math for turning single size jets into dual jets (it's not half size) single jet x .71 = dual jet size.
Example of your first single jet,
.062 x .71 = dual .043's, which is 147.5crank hp, or 125.375rwhp, as per NOS's way.

Also, the Colonels table is NOS fwhp at 950psi and the 100 crank is actually dual .033 and nos used to send a .032 and a .034, that's what I got on my first 5177 and the math backs it up.

Here is the math for converting dual jets into single jets:
(.71 x size of one jet) x 2 = single jet size"

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Wireing Diagrams:

TransBrake & Nitrous (Nitrous off with TransBrake on)


N2o w/ FPSS and WS


Purge and status light:



TransBrake, Linelock


Dualstage Dry


Single Stage with FPSS & TPS


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Other Tricks:

Wireing switch panels: There is no need to run 2 power and 2 grounds. Here is a pic of someone jumping the wires so there are less wires that have to be run:



Drive by Wire cars & WOT switch: If you do not want to buy a WOT switch that monitors TPS voltage you can mount a WOT switch on the gas pedal like we use to do when we would hide nitrous kits:



Homemade 1st Gear Lock-Out: If you are not running a progressive controller or nitrous controller that is supporting a 1st gear lock out you can easily tap into your WOT switch and put another one inline that mounts by your shifter. But you must use a 3 prong instead of a 2 prong that way the connection isnt completed until you shift out of 1st gear and shifter lets go of the 3 prong WOT switch.



If you do not understand what I am trying to say just ask and i will try to explain it better. That would be a good mod for you FWD guys running from digs.