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Old 03-07-2007, 08:57 PM   #1
Philly-Night-SR
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Need help with turbo oil line routing... PICS Inside

Just finished putting together a turbo kit with a TD05H 14b and I need help routing the oil line and Coolant Lines. I'd like to know what you think.... here are some pics of it mocked up on my old motor to check fitament...

(I still need to clock the center cartridge so it is "upside down" compared to the stock DSM's)

I think I have two options for the Oil Drain, in front of the downpipe or behind it. How high of heat can that High temp line take? Maybe there is heatwrap shielding I can wrap it in? I am thinking I can make a bracket either way to hold the line either close to the block if I run behind the DP...


In Front...


Behind...


If I go behind I am thinking of using this DSM Drain Line to make the 90 degree turn...



For the Feed Line I have two options, which is better? Tap the Greddy Oil Block Adapter or use the OEM port on the housing?


And lastly the Coolant.... Not sure which of these to tap into?

Last edited by Philly-Night-SR; 03-07-2007 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:55 PM   #2
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Anyone? I want to start getting the parts I need together for this by the weekend....
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Old 03-08-2007, 02:32 PM   #3
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Think this is good for the drain line?

5/8" ID Aeroquip Socketless black hose

It says it is good for up to 200 degree Fahrenheit, is that enough? Then I am thinking about wrapping the manifold with Thermotec header wrap and possibly looking for some kind of thermal sleeve for the Drain Line....
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:31 AM   #4
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bump (?)
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:48 AM   #5
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wow I wish I could help. it seems like your the only one postin in your thread.
I have no Idea whats goin on there, so just consider this a free bump.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:49 AM   #6
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I suggest not to use the old DSM drain line. If you do, use a brand new one or just get some stainless or socketless lines with some adapters.



Are the ports on the filter adapter before or after filtration?
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95nracer View Post
I suggest not to use to old DSM drain line. If you do, use a brand new one or just get some stainless or socketless lines with some adapters.



Are the ports on the filter adapter before or after filtration?
Oil filters flow from the outside to the inside, judging from the picture I would say before it is filtered. After it passes through the media it goes to the block through the center.
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Old 03-16-2007, 03:53 AM   #8
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Whatever you do, it does not look like fun..
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:09 PM   #9
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Okay so you are saying to use the spot on the Greddy block instead of the housing because the Greddy tap will be supplying clean oil?

Second, 95nracer--I agree I scrapped that idea. I think I am going to weld-in a bung then fing a fitting that will make that same 90 degree turn.

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Old 03-21-2007, 10:48 PM   #10
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I would NOT use rubber in an area that is that close to the downpipe, it wouldn't take much for the hose to get too hot and cause some serious problems.
Why not bend up some 1/2" or 3/4" copper tubing?
You can get decent compression fittings from many hydraulic stores, and you wouldn't have to worry about deterioting rubber.
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:07 AM   #11
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hmmm....interesting idea I guess I could do that... what do you mean by compression fittings? How would I connect hard copper line to the drain flange of the turbo?
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:35 AM   #12
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ok here is what i would do



the brown simulates hard stainless line sort of like the oem tube get some aluminum tubing and bend it to shape and have someone weld it to your oilpan
this will eliminate the worries of having the return line melt. then have the rubber return line straignt down. the nice thing about the stainless tubing is that is easily bendable. oil feed is ok.
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:38 AM   #13
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use this company and look at their pictures, you can the get a small pipe bender http://www.inlinetube.com/ocatalog.htm

you can even use a flare on the end by the oil pan and use a flare nut
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:40 AM   #14
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hey just FYI, my old oil drain line ran parallel to my uppipe (manifold) with in some spots a cm inbetween. No problems. but yeah hard line is safer
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:44 AM   #15
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also looking at my diagram i would bring up the hard line closer to the turbo. if you need help let me know i know where to buy the line the flare tool and the fitting for the oil pan side. it will be like an oem drain.
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Old 03-22-2007, 03:41 PM   #16
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Awesome thanks Ray... I think I am getting your idea...the pan is steel though, so I guess I'll have to use some type of steel tubing that will allow a 10an or 1/2 drain tube to slip over it and clamp... something like this, but a longer tube:


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Old 03-22-2007, 03:51 PM   #17
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thats it!!!!!!! like i said i know where to get everything if you need me ill go to your house and help you should take us about 3 hours in total to get it perfect then we flair the end by the pan and use a flare nut


heres what you need http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...3-Flaring_Tool


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...52568_-1_10019
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
then we flair the end by the pan and use a flare nut
I don't understand what you mean by that. Thanks so much for the offer to help... I am so ****ing confused by all the AN, NPT, 5/8", 1/2", thread size, pitch etc. crap I don't know what will work and what won't.... lol What you are proposing, would we have to weld the oil pan or is there a way to drill and tap it so it seals? I can use that spare pan, but I don't have a welder... I have a friend that has pipe benders, worst case I could rent one from ORE...

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Old 03-22-2007, 04:50 PM   #19
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nothing gets welded to the pan

we drill and tap the pan

install one of these through



then we use a nylon crushwasher and a bolt inside the pan to get this fitting secured.


next step the tube gets flaired



we will be using a nut like this to attach to the fitting on the pan





now how does this work


the tubing gets flaired with the flair tool which means the end of the tube opens up and bends we take the nut and slide it in through the part of the hose we did not flair, once we tighten the nut to the fitting on the pan it compresses the the flair part of the tube as it tightens making it air tight.

ill see if i have better pics at home for reffrence
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:25 PM   #20
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I completely understand now.... Do you have AOL IM? Are you serious about helping me do this? The car is up at my parents house in Quakertown, I live down in Philly.. I can supply beers and pizza or whatever you want if you wanna give me a hand with it some weekend...
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