Rotory Performance FMIC install

[licensedtothrill]

OK, right now im working on getting the FMIC installed in my FC. I know alot of people have done this and i know there are a few things you have to do to clear enough space to run the piping. Where im at now is installing a greddy compression tube (in picture one) to the throttle body.











This last one is what the engine bay looks like now. Hood removed, upper intake plennum lifted out of the way for now.



Anyone with any info on this please PM me. Im hoping to get this project done by the end of the weekend.

[antman0408]

I just put a Greddy kit on my car a couple weeks ago. But I have a haltech so I already got rid of all those solenoids and emission crap. What year is yours?

[licensedtothrill]

1987.

you happen to know any where i can get a passanger side door? pervious owner drifted it into a guard rail. im doing body work on it now as well and would rather get a new PS door than try to do that much bondo

[peteyturbo]

Battery removal will be good..You left any info that could have possibly gotten you any kind of good answer though..I need one of those greddy elbows too

[Silverfc88]

Originally Posted by peteyturbo

I need one of those greddy elbows too

arkadyzv has a Greddy compression tube for sale right now.




licensedtothrill: I have an extra PS door sitting in the shed. I'll check the condition on it.






When I put the Greddy kit on my car I ended up removing the power steering. The pipeing was getting crushed so I got rid of it. No power steering doesn't bother though.


If this is the Greddy kit then you will have to either have to cut the pipe going into the compression tube I little or turn it upwards to clear the brake master cylinder.

When you get a chance replace the couplers with some real silicone couplers. The one ply couplers that Greddy supply suck and mine started to crack in six to eight months time. I got my replacements from Extreme Psi.





You can get this project done in about 6 hours. Well thats how long it took me in one day.



When I get home I'll check the pics and see if I see anything.

[markley02]

I was helping licensedtothrill with this last night and we have almost everything good to go. My only questions are with the purge control valve (pcv equivalent on othe cars). could we technacally just buy the cheapest pcv valve we can find and run it into the intake? The valve kind of got destroyed while removing the rats nest. Or should we just attach some kind of breather filter onto it? Just putting a cap on it will cause pressure to build up and blow the oil dipstick out, if I am correct

[Silverfc88]

Yeah I wouldn't cap that nipple off. I had problems when I did that, even when I just ran a hose to the ground and had a breather on the oil fill tube.

The way I did mine is that I used a (compressor oil/water seperator) catch can then ran a hose into the Turbo Inlet Duct. This way you can also catch oil vapors at the same time. I tapped into the BAC valve hose for the vac source.

Its been working for me, but the catch can I have is kinda small so it fills up kinda fast. I plan on either making another one or just getting the cusco copy and making a baffle for it.

[markley02]

What about the line coming off of the fuel rail that went from the pressure regulater into the rats nest, through the orange sensor thing, and then back to the lower intake manifold? Should the ends just be capped or should we just put a line in connecting them?

[Silverfc88]

Just run a line straight from the FPR to the intake manifold. There should be a nipple pointing towards the firewall on the lower intake manifold.

I think the only lines that I'm running is the FPR, boost sensor, nipple to the primary injectors (I guess atomizer), BOV. I can't remember if there was a nipple to the secondaries.


Sorry its been awhile since I've even looked at my vac lines. I know the three next to the throttle body pointing to the front of the car are capped on mine.


The solenoids I have tucked under the crank anle sensor.


Edit: Remember to replace or put the restrictor back in for the boost sensor if your replacing that line. If the restirctor isn't there you might get some high RPM hesitation. You can get restrictors from any advance/autozone.


If I remember anything else I'll post it up.

[Drftpretty]

I can snag a pass door from the junkyard already in primer if you want. I think doors are like $25? Ill bring it up to you for the price of gas if you want. I hit the Junkyard every week so I can definetly get one if you need it. PM me. I can have it to you by this weekend.

Im assuming you have the inside door panel itself form the old door? Im also guessing you need the mirror too? Door trim?

[markley02]

Originally Posted by 95nracer

Just run a line straight from the FPR to the intake manifold. There should be a nipple pointing towards the firewall on the lower intake manifold.

I think the only lines that I'm running is the FPR, boost sensor, nipple to the primary injectors (I guess atomizer), BOV. I can't remember if there was a nipple to the secondaries.


Sorry its been awhile since I've even looked at my vac lines. I know the three next to the throttle body pointing to the front of the car are capped on mine.


The solenoids I have tucked under the crank anle sensor.


Edit: Remember to replace or put the restrictor back in for the boost sensor if your replacing that line. If the restirctor isn't there you might get some high RPM hesitation. You can get restrictors from any advance/autozone.


If I remember anything else I'll post it up.

Thanks Jerry.

One last thing. What ratio for the pre-mix? I have heard 100:1 and 150:1?

[antman0408]

If you are not running the OMP, 100:1. If you still have it, 200:1 is good. I'm still running the OMP, so I put in 8 ounces for every 12 gallons.

[peteyturbo]

ok well who is alkadyzdf and how much does he want for it..Thanks.

Originally Posted by 95nracer

arkadyzv has a Greddy compression tube for sale right now.




licensedtothrill: I have an extra PS door sitting in the shed. I'll check the condition on it.






When I put the Greddy kit on my car I ended up removing the power steering. The pipeing was getting crushed so I got rid of it. No power steering doesn't bother though.


If this is the Greddy kit then you will have to either have to cut the pipe going into the compression tube I little or turn it upwards to clear the brake master cylinder.

When you get a chance replace the couplers with some real silicone couplers. The one ply couplers that Greddy supply suck and mine started to crack in six to eight months time. I got my replacements from Extreme Psi.





You can get this project done in about 6 hours. Well thats how long it took me in one day.



When I get home I'll check the pics and see if I see anything.

[Silverfc88]

I use 120:1 for premix and I don't run the OMP. Its pretty much 1 ounce of 2cycle to 1 gallon of gas for me. I just buy the 1 gallon jug of Penzoil 2cycle and I pour it in little bottles.

Originally Posted by peteyturbo

ok well who is alkadyzdf and how much does he want for it..Thanks.

Sorry I don't think he posted it, but you can PM him and ask if he still has it. When I picked up his rear end a week ago he still had it. http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/member.php?u=1528

[arkadyzv]

The elbow was sold last week.

As far as other performance parts go for anyone thats interested:

All items are either brand new or used for like 50 miles:

Koyo s4 Rad
Signal Auto Rad Panel
SS oil cooler lines
Black Magic E-fan
Speedmachine Oil Pedestal, Anadized blue , 1/8npt for oil temp and pressure

I've also got lots of mint black s5 interior peices , nice white s5 bumper , okay doors, I think the passenger one has a ding or two

Let me know if anyone is interested.

[Silverfc88]

BUMP!


So how is it going???

[licensedtothrill]

most of it in back together at this point. ill post pics tonight.