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Old 02-26-2006, 05:44 PM   #1
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driverside caliper problem

Ok, so i resurfaced my rotors in school, and put new brake pads on. Well i started to drive, and the pads were grinding the hell out of the rotors. so when i got home, i looked at it and my rotor was trashed. so i went and bought new rotors, another new set of pads, and a caliper from the junkyard.

So i installed everything, and the outboard pad is still getting stuck on the rotor, but not the whole pad, only a small section , the same thing happened the first time. I was considering sanding down the pads a little bit, but i dont think that will help.

Any suggestions on what to do?
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:10 PM   #2
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get a different set of pads?
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:23 PM   #3
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ahh they are brand new, the old pads did the same thing, so its not the pads
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:23 PM   #4
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are the pads hanging up in the caliper bracket? try removing the pads and sanding down the caliper bracket where the pad makes contact with it.
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specVogel
are the pads hanging up in the caliper bracket? try removing the pads and sanding down the caliper bracket where the pad makes contact with it.
what exactly do u mean? the metal retaining clips? or the actual caliper itself.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:09 PM   #6
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im talking about the bracket that bolts to the hub and that the caliper bolts to. i made this pic real quick. the red is the bracket im talking about and the green spots is where you should clean and sand down to keep the pad from hanging up. sorry about the size.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:12 PM   #7
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Ok, so i resurfaced my rotors in school, and put new brake pads on. Well i started to drive, and the pads were grinding the hell out of the rotors. so when i got home, i looked at it and my rotor was trashed.

SO, I HOPE IT'S NOT AS MUCH AS YOUR BACKING PLATE TOUCHING THE ROTOR ONCE THEY WERE RESURFACED.? BECAUSE IT MIGHT OF BEEN TOUCHING THE ROTOR FROM THE REINSTALL OF RESURFACING.?

BACKING THIS UP EVEN MORE WHY DID YOU RESURFACE YOUR ROTORS????.. THEY WERE GLAZED? HOTSPOTS?

so i went and bought new rotors, another new set of pads, and a caliper from the junkyard.

NEW SET OF ROTORS? SO SOMETHING WAS TOUCHING THE RESURFACED ROTORS THAT YOU JUST PUT ON. YOU BOUGHT ONE CALIPER FROM THE YARD? WHY ONE?

HERE'S A BIG QUESTION!!!

ARE YOU HEARING THE NOISE ONLY WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED? OR ARE YOU HEARING THE GRINDING ONCE THE CAR IS MOVING.? ASKING, TO NARROW DOWN YOUR NOISE.?
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:19 PM   #8
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im talking about the bracket that bolts to the hub and that the caliper bolts to. i made this pic real quick. the red is the bracket im talking about and the green spots is where you should clean and sand down to keep the pad from hanging up. sorry about the size.


"CALIPER HOLD DOWN". YOU SHOULD CLEAN, SANDPAPER, WIREBRUSH OFF THE BUILD UP WHEN YOU REMOVE THE OLD PADS. ALOT OF TIMES THE PADS WILL NOT MAKE A CLEAN APPLICATION TO THE ROTOR.... YOUR CALIPAR PINS-BOLTS SHOULD BE 100 PERCENT FREE, GREASED UP, SO THAT THE CALIPER WILL SLIDE ON THAT HOLDDOWN ONCE BOLTED UP!
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:27 PM   #9
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So, minus the capslocks...

Yeah, pull out the pins, clean them up, and load them with caliper grease, but make sure the grease doesn't ooze out onto the pads.
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:08 PM   #10
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I bought 2 brand new rotors from autozone.

The caliper is frozen, the pads are stuck, well actually the outboard pad is the only one stuck. I greased up the pins, i know they needed to be greased.

the reason i resurfaced them was , we were practicing in class on the brake lathe. so i took mine off, and figured, hey wtf, why not resurface them. and they did shake a little bit before i resurfaced them so i figured it would be good.

the brakes are stuck on so bad, that when im sitting still the car wont roll, and when i move like 1-2 mph, the car stops real quick when i let off the gas.
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:52 PM   #11
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Your using too much grease on your caliper bolts.
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:21 PM   #12
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OK.

Few things....

Check to see if you might of put the calipar on by spinning it around once...causing the brake lineto be kinked! MAKING THE PISTON in the calipar to hold fluid.....pressure to the rotor!

ALL YOU DID WAS TAKE THE ROTORS OFF WHY WOULD IT BE HARDWARE? But this would be my next step "BELOW"


From what you are saying it appears the calipar or the brake hose are BAD? If you bought a calipar already....TRY A HOSE!! Sometimes you could have a hose that colapes inside making the calipar to hold on. (NOT RETRACTING).

Remove the hose from the calipar PUMP THE PEDAL see if you have good flow through the hose.. GOOD FLOW. - Calipar.... No flow or very little THROW A HOSE ON!

More than likely from most to least ID SAY.

MOST- Calipar
brake hose
brake booster
LEAST-master cly

Last resort..... Hope knowone was around your master cly and put in a different fluid rather than brake fluid... Like oil or Power steering fluid.... This will effect everything that is rubber..Hoses, cly's, master cly,causing it to SWELL.

Hope i could shed light to your problem........

Last edited by USARARE1; 02-26-2006 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point4DSM
Your using too much grease on your caliper bolts.
too much grease? i didnt think that was possible, and there is definetly not too much grease, but there is enough, its not globbed on there.


USARARE1

no the caliper hose is not spun around

the hose is flowing perfect, the fluid shoots out pretty fast lol.

i dont understand your comment on hardware? i work on brakes all the time, and i have yet to come across this. and well, im stumped. im really leaning towards a brake line right now. think il go pick sum up tomarow.

anyone know if pep boys/ autozone sells the brake lines i will need? or will i have to get them from mitsu? I dont need the metal ones, so i wont need to flare them, all i think i need is the rubber one from the caliper to where it meets the metal line mounted on the strut.
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:59 PM   #14
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anyone know if pep boys/ autozone sells the brake lines i will need? or will i have to get them from mitsu? I dont need the metal ones, so i wont need to flare them, all i think i need is the rubber one from the caliper to where it meets the metal line mounted on the strut.

Peb boys and autozone MIGHT have them... More than likely ther 70 percent of the time cheaper than the OEM at the dealer. I not sure where your from..Location... is under my mons beds sheets! HA! NOTTA! ... BUT if you call either of these numbers im sure they will give you the closest store to where you live....

NORTHEAST PHILA AUTOZONE 215-722-8455
NORTHEAST PHILA PEPBOYS 215-342-1320

Latta!
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Old 02-27-2006, 12:07 AM   #15
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Head To AUTOZONE we got what you need, Come down to the one at frankford & acadamy road I'll be there from 8am till 6pm my name is jon, I use to work with usarare1 at his shop,
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Old 02-27-2006, 12:21 AM   #16
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im from yardley, i should probably change my location... no way, haha. yea man, im gonna go get some lines tomarrow after school. thanks for the help guys.
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:12 PM   #17
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problem solved.

parts replaced to solve problem
-new caliper
-new rotors
-new pads
-new outer brake line*

* main problem
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:35 PM   #18
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What was the problem with the outer brake line?
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Old 02-27-2006, 10:19 PM   #19
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new outer brake line*

Kinked- BENT?...what happened?.... Between the master cly and the brake hose? Just curious!???
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Old 02-28-2006, 12:16 AM   #20
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the brake line "collapsed" only allowing pressure to enter the caliper, but when it tried to release (return the fluid) it would not have enough pressure and would just lock the pads.
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