considering possibilities with a smaller turbo than the dom 3

[ndubz]

Originally Posted by R22B

Going fast is fun, but if you’re running into financial issues with the build, there is no way you can cover it when the motor goes. If I were in your situation, I’d put the power build on the back burner and start slowly upgrading your chassis/suspension.

That way, by the time you can swing the power build AND cover the expenses if it pops, your suspension will be able to better hold you down. I don’t know if you’re into it, but also take it to a few auto crosses.

I want to get springs, but idk if I should, cuz my car scrapes enough as is anyway. I may look into getting other stuff.

[TalonTsi97]

Originally Posted by ndubz

I want to get springs, but idk if I should, cuz my car scrapes enough as is anyway. I may look into getting other stuff.

Find a balanced suspension setup. I'm sure there are designed performance springs that don't dump your car.
Does swift make springs for subies? I know they have a great rep in the evo world.

[CHAOS]

how about saving your money and acting like a rational person before buying ****? trust me, ive been there and done that.

[Khellen]

Find a balanced suspension setup. I'm sure there are designed performance springs that don't dump your car.
Does swift make springs for subies? I know they have a great rep in the evo world.

Swift does indeed make springs for subies. They get great reviews too!

Originally Posted by CHAOS

how about saving your money and acting like a rational person before buying ****? trust me, ive been there and done that.

+1

Modding a DD & being low on cash are definitely flags for "this isnt a good idea". So if it seems annoying that people are telling you not to get ahead of yourself, it's only people giving some sound financial advice.

For the sake of argument....if you ARE still going to do a turbo swap, go with a mid range turbo if you want the best of both worlds. Not sure what it would be on the STI, on the 2.0 wrx it would be the 18g or 68HTA, so maybe on the 2.5 you'd be looking more for the 20g or FP green or something in that size. That way you'll be pushing over 300whp, maybe 350whp, and still have a reasonably quick spool for backroads driving.

I'm going to go with a 68HTA this winter for a nice 300-350whp setup that will still spool decent on the 2.0.

GL either way.

[ndubz]

Ya I've thought of both the hta68 and the 18g. They both seem like decent options. And u should know that I'm already a good bit over 300whp. Probs about 310-320 or so. I'd be shooting for 350-375 probly with a new turbo. If I stay vf39 I'd be just trying for as much as I could reasonably get. This one guy I talked to makes 330whp with my basic setup and an external wastegate. I'd be happy with that for my stock turbo.

I've done alot of research already on turbo swaps. This thread was more for learning about the vf39. I know alotta people like to try and get as much from them as they can. I'd like to hear more about that.

Cuz I could set up the stock turbo well and then put in a bigger turbo later on sometime.


And I'm not stretching myself money wise here. I'm not spending more till I make more

[Buster]

Originally Posted by ndubz

Ya I've thought of both the hta68 and the 18g. They both seem like decent options. And u should know that I'm already a good bit over 300whp. Probs about 310-320 or so. I'd be shooting for 350-375 probly with a new turbo. If I stay vf39 I'd be just trying for as much as I could reasonably get. This one guy I talked to makes 330whp with my basic setup and an external wastegate. I'd be happy with that for my stock turbo.

I've done alot of research already on turbo swaps. This thread was more for learning about the vf39. I know alotta people like to try and get as much from them as they can. I'd like to hear more about that.

Cuz I could set up the stock turbo well and then put in a bigger turbo later on sometime.


And I'm not stretching myself money wise here. I'm not spending more till I make more

If you have the bolt ons and are tuned you should already be well past 300whp. An EWG is a noisemaker and isnt going to help the overclocked turbo. The VF39 is already too small for the 2.5l. But is more than adequate for making decent "street" power. Sell the turbo since it will be a waste in your hands and put it towards planting the car on the ground while you figure out what you are doing with it. If you make your plans up as you go along by the time you are done you will have completely missed what you were going for. (oddly like your posts)

Secondly, quit buying **** up before you are ready!!!! I hate that ****. If you cant do it in a week dont buy it. Especially when it comes to used ****! there was probably someone else who was also going to buy that turbo a year ago and could have been using it right now.

Power translates to absolutely nothing if its not proper, and is worthless without structure. If you cant keep your tires flat on the street at a measly 300whp how do you expect us to believe you wont mow down some family of telephone poles when you add another hundred?

Get a plan and stick to it. TST is the worst place you can possibly go to find answers if you dont have a real question. If you are waiting for D or Bill or Kir to pop in here and give you some results you better have gotten a job already because if you cant build your motor now, Their answers are wasted. Find out what the race teams are doing if you really want some kind of direction. I know Icy/Phoenix guys helped me alot on my build with the WRX over the past 2 years and I was more than happy with my results.

[Honest_Bob]

Quit being a vagina. Get a credit card and start throwing everything together like the rest of us.

[05suby]

Originally Posted by Honest_Bob

Quit being a vagina. Get a credit card and start throwing everything together like the rest of us.

hahaha

[ndubz]

Originally Posted by Honest_Bob

Quit being a vagina. Get a credit card and start throwing everything together like the rest of us.

lol bad idea. Im not trying to **** up the rest of my life with debt. The car is fine and fun now and I dont have to do anything else to it. I just want to whenever I can, which will probly be in the summer once I start making money again. thats why I cut myself off this summer.

Buster, solid advice. I'll look into that. thanks. any specific suggestions that I should make sure to have to make the car more planted? (already have front an rear sways 25mm and a strut tower bar) Im thinking springs, but idk cuz of ride height issues. any other suggestions?

[06njsti]

If you THINK you cant afford to put the turbo on your car in reality theres no way you can, well maybe you can afford to put the parts on but maintaing the car, NO. If you can barely afford to put parts on what makes you think when **** blows up your gonna be able to fix it. Your gonna spend probably 3x more then what the turbo cost in supporting mods. Do you have $500 for an ewg setup, $1000 for a fuel system (injectors and rails), some kind of ebcs or what ever your tuner wants to run, an upgraded tmic or fmic. Theres sooo many other things you need to throw into the equasion. I also love how some people talk about how they have this done and that done to there but their car is still on jack stands because they blew it up and cant afford to fix it. 350-375whp is right where rings start to go, its usually a little bit more power then that but are you willing to take a roll of the dice and test your luck? When your clutch goes do you have atleast $1,000 for a stronger aftermarket one? it makes no sense to install another oem one, you need to look at ALL the little things when starting to mod an already expensive car to maintain. When i get tuned at the end of the month and tell my tuner to go balls to the wall and see what he can do I can safely sleep at night. I know my 30r wont be able to blow up my Rallispec built longblock and I will be able to run my race tune all day and not worry about a thing. I also have a car that gets me to work and school and makes sure my bills are paid. In your case since its your dd if you blow the car up your screwed, you cant even get to work to pay your bills.

Sell the dom3 and get tuned on the vf39 and supporting mods, you can have MORE then enough fun with 300ish whp on the street, thats all you need. And get some other parts so you can effectively put that power to the ground. I did all my suspension parts before really going overboard with the motor and turbo and dont regret it at all. You need to think as suspension parts as a building block for being able to handle all this power. Ive driven in and drove both dom3, 30/35r'ed wrx's and sti's on mostly stock suspension, it makes no sense. Ive never been so scared in my life when getting behind the wheel of those cars also. What good is all that power if you cant control it? Get some coilovers or springs/struts, then some sway bars and endlinks, from there you can go with little other parts maybe a set of wheels. (my advans are for sale http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1853890)
Im really looking forward to being able to chirp my 275's soon.


I hate to come off like a complete ass if you feel that way but just look at the whole big picture, I met you before and im pretty sure you bought my blue floormats from me. The last thing I want to hear is that you blew your **** up and cant afford to fix it. Another big thing that I dont understand is when people dump TONS of money into a car the bank still owns. Blowing a car up is one thing when you own it, but when your still making payments on that car its just plain stupid. I probably shouldnt be telling you or anyone else on here but at one time I could barely afford to put new brakes and rotors on my sti, now the car has a built longblock and way to much money into the body. Now 18 months later i just turned 20 and I own the sti and am about to get an 05/06 Denali this month, its amazing how things change so fast.

-Gary

[boostjunky]

Sell it. Invest in good coilovers. Skip springs. If you like twisty roads, upgrade everything else suspension wise. Get near R comps for dry. Maybe a set of rain tires as well if you like the wet. No tire does everything well. Lighten the car some more. Lower rotational mass as much as possible. It will be like a new car. With much more capability and reliability than just adding more power. Less spool=more fun on twists. It will be much more rewarding on back roads

[CHAOS]

LMAO @ get "near r comps"

its not a ****ing race car.

[RyanG]

Originally Posted by ndubz

Ya I've thought of both the hta68 and the 18g.

um....2 TOTALLY different turbos.. make up your mind what you want.

Originally Posted by ndubz

They both seem like decent options. And u should know that I'm already a good bit over 300whp. Probs about 310-320 or so. I'd be shooting for 350-375 probly with a new turbo.

better start thinking 20g and up if you want that power and to have it STAY.. I can get a 39 to hit 350 but it will run out of steam faster than you would lose a boner with a fat chick.

Originally Posted by ndubz

If I stay vf39 I'd be just trying for as much as I could reasonably get. This one guy I talked to makes 330whp with my basic setup and an external wastegate. I'd be happy with that for my stock turbo.

yeah awesome if you like a snappy turbo that pukes out on the highway and loses its girth.. Little turbos are fun for about 15 seconds..and then you will still be running 15's in the 1/4 ;)

Originally Posted by ndubz

I've done alot of research already on turbo swaps. This thread was more for learning about the vf39. I know alotta people like to try and get as much from them as they can. I'd like to hear more about that.

Cuz I could set up the stock turbo well and then put in a bigger turbo later on sometime.

WHAT IS YOUR END GOAL?? do you want highway pulling power or autocross power?

[RyanG]

Originally Posted by boostjunky

Less spool=more fun on twists. It will be much more rewarding on back roads

say what????

[D Money]

Originally Posted by Vr-4-Life

Seriously... I'll spin till 8k in the vr4 and i have Awd and 8.5 inch wide tires on all four.

I know for a fact this isn't happening.

Originally Posted by ndubz

So I have a dom 3 sitting on my shelf right now and I do want to put it in my car, but with my money situation right now and the fact that my car is able to spin all 4 through second on wet or gravel roads and on dry roads to some degree as is

Im thinking id sell my dom 3 for around what I bought it for, and do like 740cc injectors w/ walbro 255, and run an external wastegate setup and an ebcs.

LOL you will not spin 2nd in a dom3 stock motor sti on dry pavement. You're kidding, right?

Next, 740cc injectors for a stock turbo? What! LOL Who even makes 740's, no one...

It's so hard to stay out of these threads with such dumb posts. OMFG

[boostjunky]

If it is a "high performance street car" then yes. Near R comp grip is best. I don't know why people with fast, well handling cars skimp out on tires and put some weak ass Proxes or Invo or Ecsta or some other cheapy "tuner" tires.

If you can afford a STi and want back road fun you should be able to to spring for a set of Neovas every summer. Pay to play. That's how it is.

Also when I think of fun back roads there isn't much time for gear changes on the straighter sections. I would want to stay in boost all the time. Consecutive 70 to 90 degree or more turns spaced about 300 ft from each other. Not a slighty winding country back road that harleys cruise on sundays.

Weak sauce

[D Money]

R comps on the street? LOL you would need a set every 3 months and could never drive in the rain. Stop listening to this kid, his car DOES NOT spin tires in 2nd gear. haha

That's like me saying I will run 4 slicks on the street at all times. If I do not need anything more than a performance summer 265/35 tire with probably around 680whp, then why would this 300whp car need r comps? OMFG, you people crack me up.

[CHAOS]

my old potenza's did great and i definitely wouldnt say that are near r comps.

and dimitri... i was able to break loose in first gear on the stock turbo and sometimes chirp second depending on the surface... so breaking loose in second isnt too far off with 100 more whp.

eitherway this ndubz kid sucks at modding.

[RyanG]

Originally Posted by boostjunky

If it is a "high performance street car" then yes. Near R comp grip is best. I don't know why people with fast, well handling cars skimp out on tires and put some weak ass Proxes or Invo or Ecsta or some other cheapy "tuner" tires.

If you can afford a STi and want back road fun you should be able to to spring for a set of Neovas every summer. Pay to play. That's how it is.

Also when I think of fun back roads there isn't much time for gear changes on the straighter sections. I would want to stay in boost all the time. Consecutive 70 to 90 degree or more turns spaced about 300 ft from each other. Not a slighty winding country back road that harleys cruise on sundays.

Weak sauce

you obviously have not been on any of our fun runs. I am running Ecsta XS tires...very close to being a near R compound tire and from "gasp" a tuner company. Neovas are silly drifter tires...
http://www.kumhousa.com/Tire.aspx?id...466bd5c&cat=18

when we go on our runs I always wish for a smaller turbo.. to stay IN boost...

[D Money]

Originally Posted by CHAOS

my old potenza's did great and i definitely wouldnt say that are near r comps.

and dimitri... i was able to break loose in first gear on the stock turbo and sometimes chirp second depending on the surface... so breaking loose in second isnt too far off with 100 more whp.

eitherway this ndubz kid sucks at modding.

Yeah, but chirping 2nd gear is different then just boosting 2nd gear and ripping tires. No way is he doing that, not even with the dccd all the way back.

First gear, maybe. I use to be able to with 330whp if it was extremely cold, but not in warm dry pavement. Anyway, why would ndubz brag about spinning tires? That would contribute to him losing...LOL