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Old 06-06-2009, 06:07 PM   #1
XAlliedYouthX
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Battery drain problem

So I picked up a 240 from a guy on here and it looks like it has a parasitic draw on the battery. I drove the car home and it was fine for a few days until the first battery died. I figured it was just an old battery so I replaced it with a red top and then a few days later that battery was dead aswell.

Today I went out to the 240 with my red top nice and charged to start yanking fuses to find out what was leeching off the battery, no luck though. I pulled every single fuse and relay in all 3 fuse panels but the test light still stayed on. I did noticed that 80% of the fuses were of higher value then they were supposed to be but that's another problem.

I read that pulling the fuses should do the trick so I can track down the problem but that lead me nowhere. Is there anything else that I check to find out what the problem is?
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:32 PM   #2
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You have to get a DVOM (digital voltmeter) and hook it up in series with the battery and do an amperage draw test. Then start pulling fuses. All a test light is doing is telling you, you have power and ground
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Old 06-06-2009, 07:50 PM   #3
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Did you test the alternator yet?
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl@ckvr4 View Post
Did you test the alternator yet?
Not yet. I wanted to check the fuses before having to start yanking stuff out.
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Old 06-07-2009, 03:41 PM   #5
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Probably the alternator....mine did the same thing and died on my way to work wed night
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:42 AM   #6
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Did you find the problem?
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:59 AM   #7
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glovebox, trunk, or hood light stuck on?
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:54 AM   #8
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Any aftermarket stereo equipment installed? A rookie mistake is to hook up an amplifier's remote wire to a source of constant power as opposed to properly connecting it to an ignition on power source. If someone did that then the amplifier will be powered all of the time, even when car is off causing battery drain.
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:30 AM   #9
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I ended up fixing the problem a bit ago. When I was checking things I checked everything except for the radio. Guess what the problem ended up being? There were wires everywhere, it was a mess. I'm pretty sure there was what appeared to be some sort of grounding just wrapped around one of the screw holes in the radio cage, who knows. Not sure if that what it was but it sure looked that way.

Right now the car is in the middle of getting a motor put in so when I get it back I'm going to remove all the individual wire connectors and just redo it myself.
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:38 AM   #10
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Could be the battery. If the lead plates on the bottom of it dissolved from being discharged too low, the battery could have a dead cell and not fully or charge at all.
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Old 07-30-2009, 02:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Could be the battery. If the lead plates on the bottom of it dissolved from being discharged too low, the battery could have a dead cell and not fully or charge at all.
Did you not read fully?
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Old 07-30-2009, 02:56 PM   #12
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Did you not read fully?
I read it fully. Just because you bought a new battery, doesn't mean it wasn't killed from the origional issue that is yet to be figured out. You can just have a new battery that is bad now plus whatever the problem was that is draining it.
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Old 07-30-2009, 03:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinacup7 View Post
You have to get a DVOM (digital voltmeter) and hook it up in series with the battery and do an amperage draw test. Then start pulling fuses. All a test light is doing is telling you, you have power and ground
The amperage draw test works too, but I usually do that after I do the test light trick. If you disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect a test light between the cable and the negative terminal on the battery you shouldn't have much more than a very slight glow from the test light. If the light is fully powered up I wouldn't hook my meter up to it, since you'll be testing for millivolts, or it will pop the fuse.
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Old 07-31-2009, 04:56 PM   #14
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The amperage draw test works too, but I usually do that after I do the test light trick. If you disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect a test light between the cable and the negative terminal on the battery you shouldn't have much more than a very slight glow from the test light. If the light is fully powered up I wouldn't hook my meter up to it, since you'll be testing for millivolts, or it will pop the fuse.
luckily my meter reads up to 500 millivolts. hah
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