Do it Yourself Motor Mounts. Need input - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

SkinnyGT · 01-08-2009, 05:23 PM

I'm sure there are a few of you out there that make your own polyurethane mounts and I'm curious as to how you do it. I have prothane mounts on one of my eclipses and they're fairly solid and create a lot of vibration at idle. I'm looking to get away with the vibration somewhat by utilizing OEM mounts and filling in the voids with polyurethane. I have multiple sets of mounts for I4/V6 eclipses and I'd like to start producing mounts for profit and create a basement business for the 3G community. Now I know they sell the polyurethane in liquid but I have no idea where to get it or how much to get. Where do you guys get it? How much is required to do 4 mounts (yes, all mounts are different but a simple estimate will due)?

btw, I'm not interested in the window weld method due to the cheap looking results.

Kiel · 01-08-2009, 06:23 PM

Get it at Home Depot. Seriously. Just make sure you use some sort of plastic sheet to tape off the bottom/any area it might leak out while it cures. And of course, allow it at least a full 24 hours to cure solid, longer if you have to fill a big void with it. It won't be as stiff a grade of poly as normal poly mounts, but once it cures it will be a lot better than just an OEM mount.

OMGz Turbo · 01-08-2009, 06:39 PM

The window weld method is the best way, and looks great if its properly done and taped

OutToWinPAHC · 01-08-2009, 07:16 PM

Check this its from Nico but in general it should work.
http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=215490

SkinnyGT · 01-09-2009, 09:38 AM

I was under the impression that the 3M window weld created a sloppy looking job but I guess I'll give it a shot tonight.

turbotaloon95 · 01-09-2009, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kiel

Get it at Home Depot. Seriously. Just make sure you use some sort of plastic sheet to tape off the bottom/any area it might leak out while it cures. And of course, allow it at least a full 24 hours to cure solid, longer if you have to fill a big void with it. It won't be as stiff a grade of poly as normal poly mounts, but once it cures it will be a lot better than just an OEM mount.

If you do this method, use thin layers and let them cure. Then add another layer. I did this with a buddy of mine and filled in the whole mount and the inner layer NEVER cures. So you have a hard outside and squishy inside...weird.

underpressure02 · 01-09-2009, 10:02 AM

I made my own solid mounts for my race car and daily driver out of moly tubing and some plate steel. Works great and does not vibrate that much.

SkinnyGT · 01-09-2009, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotaloon95

If you do this method, use thin layers and let them cure. Then add another layer. I did this with a buddy of mine and filled in the whole mount and the inner layer NEVER cures. So you have a hard outside and squishy inside...weird.

Wouldn't multiple layers just create a weak mount that's bound to fall apart?

BlackTalon95 · 01-09-2009, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkinnyGT

Wouldn't multiple layers just create a weak mount that's bound to fall apart?

No, not if you put the next layer on while the previous layer is still tacky.

Kiel · 01-09-2009, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotaloon95

If you do this method, use thin layers and let them cure. Then add another layer. I did this with a buddy of mine and filled in the whole mount and the inner layer NEVER cures. So you have a hard outside and squishy inside...weird.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

No, not if you put the next layer on while the previous layer is still tacky.

You're absolutely right and I should have mentioned that. It's a lengthy process to do it this way, but it works well if you have the time and are diligent about making sure you add the layer before the previous layer cures.

delspool · 01-09-2009, 02:32 PM

www.mcmaster.com should have what you need

Rockstar · 01-09-2009, 04:19 PM

I would barely fill the stock mounts if you do. I did this over a year ago..on my 240sx home depot polyeruthan PL yellow tube. I filled up the stock motor mounts gaps.etc. At idle the interior vibrated a lot and my front end(fiberglass) vibrated A LOT. I bumped up idle a little and it stopped the front end from shaking less, but inside dash still vibrated at idle. Didn't last until winter but I gather cold=even louder.
I ended up getting nismo mounts I can take pics of the motor mount I made,tube of poly if anyone wants.

underpressure02 · 01-09-2009, 04:26 PM

There was a very good write up on vwvortex using the stuff from mcmaster. Let me see if I can find the post.

underpressure02 · 01-09-2009, 04:34 PM

Here are a few good threads if you want to use the mcmaster stuff

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1188960

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread...motor+mcmaster

Hope that helps.

SovXietday · 01-09-2009, 06:34 PM

Sweet, I need to do that to the CRX sometime this year. Too bad the back mount is such a bitch to get.

01-08-2009, 05:23 PM	#1
SkinnyGT Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Carlisle, PA Member #10602 My Ride: 00 Eclipse GT-T iTrader: (0)	Do it Yourself Motor Mounts. Need input I'm sure there are a few of you out there that make your own polyurethane mounts and I'm curious as to how you do it. I have prothane mounts on one of my eclipses and they're fairly solid and create a lot of vibration at idle. I'm looking to get away with the vibration somewhat by utilizing OEM mounts and filling in the voids with polyurethane. I have multiple sets of mounts for I4/V6 eclipses and I'd like to start producing mounts for profit and create a basement business for the 3G community. Now I know they sell the polyurethane in liquid but I have no idea where to get it or how much to get. Where do you guys get it? How much is required to do 4 mounts (yes, all mounts are different but a simple estimate will due)? btw, I'm not interested in the window weld method due to the cheap looking results.

01-08-2009, 06:23 PM	#2
Kiel Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Morton, PA Member #5456 My Ride: 2003 WRX - Sonic Yellow iTrader: (0)	Get it at Home Depot. Seriously. Just make sure you use some sort of plastic sheet to tape off the bottom/any area it might leak out while it cures. And of course, allow it at least a full 24 hours to cure solid, longer if you have to fill a big void with it. It won't be as stiff a grade of poly as normal poly mounts, but once it cures it will be a lot better than just an OEM mount. __________________ TST Work Crew/Saturday Club To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

01-09-2009, 10:02 AM	#7
underpressure02 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2005 Member #645 iTrader: (0)	I made my own solid mounts for my race car and daily driver out of moly tubing and some plate steel. Works great and does not vibrate that much. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. Northeast Drag Racing Club/Performance Parts Webstore

01-09-2009, 04:26 PM	#13
underpressure02 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2005 Member #645 iTrader: (0)	There was a very good write up on vwvortex using the stuff from mcmaster. Let me see if I can find the post. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. Northeast Drag Racing Club/Performance Parts Webstore

01-09-2009, 04:34 PM	#14
underpressure02 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2005 Member #645 iTrader: (0)	Here are a few good threads if you want to use the mcmaster stuff http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1188960 http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread...motor+mcmaster Hope that helps. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. Northeast Drag Racing Club/Performance Parts Webstore

01-08-2009, 06:39 PM	#3
OMGz Turbo Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ltown Member #3108 My Ride: 01' WS6..That whistles...01' Explorer 5.slow iTrader: (0)	The window weld method is the best way, and looks great if its properly done and taped

01-08-2009, 07:16 PM	#4
OutToWinPAHC Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Tokelau Member #5081 My Ride: R33 GTS25T, RHD E46, Truck, part R32 GTR iTrader: (2)	Check this its from Nico but in general it should work. http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=215490

01-09-2009, 09:38 AM	#5
SkinnyGT Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Carlisle, PA Member #10602 My Ride: 00 Eclipse GT-T iTrader: (0)	I was under the impression that the 3M window weld created a sloppy looking job but I guess I'll give it a shot tonight.

01-09-2009, 02:32 PM	#11
delspool Tri-State Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: keyport, nj Member #2317 My Ride: tacoma iTrader: (0)	www.mcmaster.com should have what you need

01-09-2009, 04:19 PM	#12
Rockstar Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: May 2007 Location: NJ Member #4934 My Ride: 240sx iTrader: (1)	I would barely fill the stock mounts if you do. I did this over a year ago..on my 240sx home depot polyeruthan PL yellow tube. I filled up the stock motor mounts gaps.etc. At idle the interior vibrated a lot and my front end(fiberglass) vibrated A LOT. I bumped up idle a little and it stopped the front end from shaking less, but inside dash still vibrated at idle. Didn't last until winter but I gather cold=even louder. I ended up getting nismo mounts I can take pics of the motor mount I made,tube of poly if anyone wants.

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