"9 Ball's" been Cam'd

[silver05bullet]

Originally Posted by evospeed

No way. The stock turbo has alot left actually. I am planning on going up to 380-390 whp on that snail! With alky of course....


9 ball....I am surprised you went with your stock BOV when you got tuned. That thing is not going to hold. Heck, most of them leak at 19 psi which is stock. I got the JDM MR Diverter valve. Acts just like stock, but it is made out of metal, not plastic.

I agree with u the stock turbo and 272's or 280's is definitely not an overkill, there are people running upwards of 400hp on the stock turbo,

the plastic bov sometimes works fine up to 22 psi sometimes it leaks

[D Money]

wow Jeff, thats sick bro. Too bad its not a 9, you would have dynoed 30whp over that....

[turbotool]

Nice numbers man. I think I officially have the slowest Evo on TST. That hotside is definitely my next upgrade!!!

[silver05bullet]

nah u probably arent theres some stock evos on here i think

[9 Ball]

Hey guys. Sorry I’m just responding at 1:30am… it’s another busy week for me.

I let “Philly Boy” drive the car last night. You should’ve seen him. He had this silly grin on his face the entire time. It was like he found Jesus or something.

Yeah "US_R33" it sounds crazy, but 272 or 280 isn't overkill. This particular motor loves cams, and the turbo still has room. I wasn’t really thinking about the BOV at the time, but of course, at this level the stock one has to go. Who knows how far it could’ve gone. My goal for the day was to hit 350whp and with a new BOV I think I’ll hit that mark. Remember, I hit 340whp on just my second run… they were trying to go even further. Most of the Evo IXs are hitting around 360-370whp with simple mods… really crazy.

Here’s the graph. It’s kinda fuzzy…


This is at 21psi so the stock BOV doesn’t punk out on me again. I’m probably gonna do another dynotune in the near future to really put the nail in the coffin on my power level. The dyno run was cut short due to the BOV.

One of the things me and “Philly Boy” were talking about is how light the car “feels.” When I had my Utec tuned by a friend, there was a power increase, however, the car’s weight “felt” the same. Now the car “feels” dramatically lighter and it’s probably a testament to what the power adders are really contributing to the car. There’s plenty of torque down low. I shift at 2500rpm in normal driving conditions. As for the top end, as you can imagine, it’s nuts. But the car feels very smooth, almost like it came from the factory.

And what I really love is the fact that my wheel-horse-power numbers are just as high as many high end sports cars’ crank-horse-power numbers.

[Raven18940]

Originally Posted by 03tarmacblack

The stock housing on the hotside, or in other words exhaust side of the turbo, on stock 03/04 evo's is a 9.8, or 9.8 cm , 2005's and up came with a 10.5, its a nice upgrade for the older evo's.

sweet jebus, why is it so big?

[US_R33]

that dyno chart was with a tuned run? there isn't any way to smooth out your curves?? lookin a little rocky there

what a/f ratios are you hitting with these kind of numbers with stock turbo and injectors?

[Philly Boy]

After I drove Jeff's car, I was immediately noticed my car is slow. Keep in mind I put down 300whp on the exact same dyno. What I was impressed is that the car feels much much lighter than before. That's because of torque and responsiveness.

As for the AFR, I observed monitor when the tuner pushed Jeff's car on the dyno. It was 12.1~12.5. And yes, it is a little rocky curve at top end. I think that because of unstable boost due to leaky stock BOV but not 100% sure.

I have video clips of dyno pulls but I don't know how to post them.

[Buster]

Wow, way to make me hate my car. Ill be lucky to dyno 200!

[US_R33]

12.1-12.5??? that sounds rather lean to me.....you might want to get the AFR retuned so that its closer to 11.5 for reliability and to be sure that everything stays in one piece

[TehWagon]

Jeff you have the map selector on your utec, right? That's probably just a race map that you can switch off for daily driving, right?

[evospeed]

Why would you ever want to switch that power off? That tune is fine for everyday driving. He probably even has BETTER gas mileage since the tune, and MORE power. I believe it is on pump gas, probably 93, so those are some good numbers for relatively few mods.

On race gas or alky.....LOOK OUT!

No need to have two different tunes unless you are running race gas and want to maximize your power for that gas.

[TehWagon]

If i was running lean, i would not want to go through tempurature / humidity variations day to day... but everyone has their own comfort zone! If he feels its a safe tune then have at it, Jeff!

[Philly Boy]

12.1-12.5 is not too lean for cast iron block. Shiv from Vishnu Performance usually tunes most of Evos around 12~12.5 AFR. He tuned my Rex at 11~11.3 and my car is healthy as day1.

Jeff doesn't have utec anymore. He tuned on reflashed ecu.

[wgknestrick]

AFR means nothing without boost level, turbo size/back pressure, and spark advance to go with it. AFR is mearly 1 small part of the equation and different tuners, tune differently.

One tuner may run a rich AFR to offset aggressive spark advance or boost pressure, or a lean AFR to safe fuel, but conservative spark, low boost. They all have their "preferred way" of making power (lean AFR, high boost, or ign advance) and have to compensate in other areas for it.

The key is to have no det audible at the microphone level. This is my problem with TT, as they never hook up headphones to a knock sensor while they tune. They claim they can "hear" det over 110dB dyno runs. and that's why they always have a long line of cars waiting to get engine rebuilds. The only guy who gets to tune my car, listens the entire time to the engine through the knock sensor while he tunes and makes runs. He can tell you how much piston slap/valve train noise/rod knock/etc you have just by listening.

Large turbos/big catless exhaust allow much more aggressive tuning without det. Anytime you increase volumetric eff, you can get a little more aggressive on the tune. You cannot just compare AFRs and spark advance from one car to another, especially across different platforms.

Iron block means nothing with respect to AFR, BTW

12.5:1 AFR is generally conisidered and proven to be the ideal AFR to maximize power in IC engines because it has about the fastest burn rate of all AFRs.

[9 Ball]

10.5 AFR is what you get when the EVO comes from the factory. And any Evo owner will tell you that a 10.5 AFR is pig rich. An AFR in the 12s is actually pretty normal and seems to be right smack in the middle with this set up. Each car is different, so I wouldn't want EVO owners to run out there and start leaning out their AFRs to mine, however, you can run 12s with no problems. If you look on the Evo forums you'll see it's a common number. Some guys are going much higher than that with different set-ups.

Typically, you'll see EVO owners on the west coast run 11.5 because they're stuck with 91 octane. But if this were a different car, like a Subaru, I wouldn't want to go beyond 11.5.

Originally Posted by S4toSTI

Hey kids/ricers this is when u need a bov lol.

I'm gonna make this into a bumper sticker.

[9 Ball]

I haven't decided yet if I'm gonna sell the Utec or use it for an aggressive set-up (i.e. race gas on track days.) Right now it's sitting in my bedroom.

[Philly Boy]

Right, AFR's should be vary depends on material of internal parts, type of fuel, ignition timing, boost level, etc. The number means nothing but the typical tuning AFRs for Evos are low 12's and Subys are low 11's. However the more Suby owners blown their motors than the Evo owners do even with lower AFR number. That's because the Suby motor is aluminum block which is much weaker than Evos cast iron block plus In-line 4. I heard that the in-line-4 engine is stronger than the boxer but not sure why. So having the EGT gauge to monitor internal temperature is more important than the AFR numbers.

[wgknestrick]

Aluminum vs cast iron means very little with respect to "blowing" engines, please get this outta your head. Engine internals and design are vastly more important compared to block material.

4G63s make more HP than EJ's because they have a better, higher flowing head design, piston squirters, inline configuration, 12 years of "evolution" to improve problems/design, and cheaper cams, not because it is iron. Only at the extreme high end does the iron block start to help things, but suby blocks can be sleeved with darton iron sleeves too.

Do you think an engine builder was ever asked "Why did my engine blow?" and he responded "Well, it WAS made out of aluminum." Detonation and abuse kills engines.

My car is tuned to about 12.3:1 on WOT pulls BTW. Subarus don't need to be 11:1, it's all in the parts and tune