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Old 05-10-2007, 02:24 PM   #1
CHAOS
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debating pulling the trigger for a track day

ok folks, well ive got a track/PDX day coming up in june... in preperation for all that... ive got some things to do to my car... and im not sure if i should go as far as i want...

on the list of DEFINITE things:
- all fluids changed/checked
- goodridge ss brake lines - 95
- Hawk HP+ brake pads - 250
- Bridgestone Potenza RE01R's - 500


on the FENCE list:
Ohlins fixed perch struts 1890
RCE springs 329
TiC fender braces 95
Carbing FSTB 269
RSTB 150
Group-N front top mount 120
Group-N rear top mount 240


i am not going to run a coilover or camber plates because i just dont feel the need for the adjustability. what do you guys think? should i run stock suspension? or should i get to it with buying parts and make my car way more capable? opinions welcome... asshole comments not welcome.
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Old 05-10-2007, 02:34 PM   #2
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if you want to get that stuff anyway, then its a very nice list.... but at the same time none of those things are necessary at all for a track day. far more important than any mod you can do is just to focus on your driving... it'll make more of a difference than any mod can. an experienced driver in a base model civic would run better times than an inexperienced driver in a modded STi.

if you go for the mods, i personally feel that those Ohlins are just way too expensive, i cant swallow it even if they are good. i have used RCE springs and 5 day old Group N front tophats both for sale if you do go through with that stuff.
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Old 05-10-2007, 03:28 PM   #3
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the reasoning behind the ohlins is they offer better valving which equals better ride than stock and i ****ING HATE my strut clunk. ..how used are the springs?
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Old 05-10-2007, 03:31 PM   #4
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Having riden in an Ohlins-clad STi, I can say that I would not pay that much money for them.

You are much better off saving the money, using the stock struts and seeing how far they take you on the track, then getting coilovers, IMO.

The Ohlins are worth $1200-$1400, IMO. They are not priced for what you get performance-wise and I don't like that I've already seen a pair completely corroded after one winter in Ohio.

Now, what you can do in the meantime, is wait for the Prodrive/Bilstein RB320 kit to come out. They will be coming with Bilstein struts with the PSS-9 internals. I bet that those struts will give you 99.5% of the performance as the Ohlins will for a bit less cash. Adjustability isn't that important with a strut and spring setup.

For your trackday, definitely get the pads and fluid. The stock stuff won't hold up to repeated pounding.

The rest isn't really necessary, like Troll said, the driver mod will give you the biggest gain out there, although I'm not sure a base civic could deal with a modded STi in the hands of anyone but helen keller :p
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Last edited by DaveSTi; 05-10-2007 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 05-10-2007, 03:47 PM   #5
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fyi, the reason i have tires on the definite list is because i currently have all season pirelli's on the car... i garauntee they will not do what i need them to do on a track
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHAOS View Post
fyi, the reason i have tires on the definite list is because i currently have all season pirelli's on the car... i garauntee they will not do what i need them to do on a track
when ever i get my new rubber(which hopefully will be soon) you are more then welcome to have my balding azenis, they aren't going to be great on the road, but they will do well on the track. (will you have a set of track wheels and daily drivers?)
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:30 PM   #7
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You don't want new pads right before you go to the track so if you do them make sure its about 2 weeks before if not more. Also if your tires on your car have some good tread left on them go out and romp on them no reason to beat on and maybe kill a brand new set.
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:39 PM   #8
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Def do the pads and tires, you might be better off doing the fluids after the track day. I do an engine oil change before going and then drain it and put fresh in when i get home. I still haven't changed my brake fluid yet, I think i will have it done after my next track day.
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:44 PM   #9
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barry why not get new pads?...and my fluids are almost due ... so its better to change them now
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
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barry why not get new pads?...and my fluids are almost due ... so its better to change them now
You don't wanna have brand new pads too close to a track day. Its bad for them and for your braking ability.
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:17 PM   #11
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think he just meant they will need to be bedded but you can do that pretty easily either before the track day or even right on the track. takes 5 minutes to bed them and 20 minutes to let them cool down... not a big deal.

ask davesti how used the springs are, haha... i got them from him. springs dont really 'go bad' though so its not much of a concern. i paid $260 for them (plus a 2 hour roundtrip drive to get them) and i'll be happy to sell them to you for the same thing. group n tops have literally 5 days of use i believe and i'll sell them for $100.

you should talk to homer... his name on here is nasti and he's done quite a few track days on a more or less stock suspension STi. he's got pads, lines, fluid, and i think that might be it? he's got some great perspective on focusing on driving and not modding which makes a whole hell of a lot more sense than what a lot of us do (myself being one of the guiltiest of parties).
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:04 PM   #12
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haha yeah, troll's springs have maybe 2k miles on them. maybe. probably less since i never ran them myself. plus, quality springs don't go bad. i don't believe they even "settle" too much if they're a good spring. I'm starting to believe that RCE springs are made by Swift (and also thinking the same of their upcoming sways), which would make them high quality.

pads are fine, just bed them in before the track. people swap pads around before heading to the track all the time. you'll also want to change the fluid. the stock DOT 3 doesn't take kindly to heat well.

good tire choice. i'd go with a different brake pad. ferodo ds3000 up front would be better than those hawks.
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:12 PM   #13
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the reason i chose the hawks is because i have extensive experience with the hawk HPS's and i love em
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:25 PM   #14
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Yeah, if I were you I would definitely switch brake fluids to ATE Super Blue, or Motul 600...I dunno which is cheaper, but they are less resistant to boiling.

If I were you, I would consider some other pads besides Hawk HP+ pads since they are more or less just a street compound. Are you willing to have a set of track only pads? Or do you plan on using the same set for DD and track? I ordered some Ferodo DS2500s which are decent track pads, and are still relatively quiet, but make about the same dust as stockers from what I've seen.

One really important thing to check are pressures. I dunno if you have a preference, but with basically a stock setup it will make a noticable difference. Try running a little extra PSIs up front.

I have RCE springs with Group-N top hats, and camber bolts, and I'm dissapointed. I really wish I went straight with coilovers. I know you say you don't want adjustability, but a good set of coilovers with 350/300ish rates on the most comfortable setting will give you more comfort, and better performance than RCE springs and upgraded top hats. You should consider them. I think Ohlin struts have both adjustable rebound, while the PSS-9s have dampning and rebound adjustable together. in one knob, and isn't really much more complicated than Ohlins. I would consider them if I were you. There are also suggested values for n00bs so it shouldn't be that much of a problem.

Look into a harness. Schroth has a great quick release one that connects to your rear seatbelts. Good buy.

If you're paper game is like but, what about seats? I dunno if you slide around in the stockers, but it's a pain in the neck, and you'll feel so much more connected with a good seat.

One more thing, get an alignment, but be careful of camber bolts. Mine have gotten loose, and messed things up. Negative camber is your friend. Even with stock bolts you should be able to get ~1.0 front and ~1.5 rear.

But yeah, in the end the best mod by far is the driver, but just throwing some other suggestions out there.
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Old 05-10-2007, 10:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willthethrill View Post
Def do the pads and tires, you might be better off doing the fluids after the track day. I do an engine oil change before going and then drain it and put fresh in when i get home. I still haven't changed my brake fluid yet, I think i will have it done after my next track day.
you definitely want fresh brake fluid PRIOR to your event:
a good bleed at minimum.
a good flush if the brake fluid is a year old.
mine gets swapped once a year before event #1.

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You don't wanna have brand new pads too close to
a track day. Its bad for them and for your braking ability.
please explain why.
like troll said, bed the new pads in properly and you'll be fine. old pads by ONE week is no difference than 25 minutes old. what you don't want are any pads so thin that they can't take the HEAT.

also depending on the track you're planning on driving---HP+ might not cut it; they are a street compound.
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Old 05-11-2007, 12:49 PM   #16
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im hitting pocono north i think it is... please everyone keep in mind that currently this is still my daily driver... and i dunno how much of a PITA itll be to switch brake pads and **** between events... and as far as i can read the HP+ are a street/autox pad... the HPS are just street... i dunno... definitely keep the comments coming.
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Old 05-11-2007, 01:00 PM   #17
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im hitting pocono north i think it is... please everyone keep in mind that currently this is still my daily driver... and i dunno how much of a PITA itll be to switch brake pads and **** between events... and as far as i can read the HP+ are a street/autox pad... the HPS are just street... i dunno... definitely keep the comments coming.

First time's sort of a PITA, but after that you should be able to do it in like 20 min. All you need IIRC is a screw driver, and two pliers.
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Old 05-11-2007, 07:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHAOS View Post
im hitting pocono north i think it is... please everyone keep in mind that currently this is still my daily driver... and i dunno how much of a PITA itll be to switch brake pads and **** between events... and as far as i can read the HP+ are a street/autox pad... the HPS are just street... i dunno... definitely keep the comments coming.
it's totally your call and your wallet if you want to smoke your street pads on a track go ahead. fyi: my track pads and rotors lasted all but 5 days.

also you should be ready to familiarize yourself with your braking system (pita or not) if you're gonna be serious about driving on the track.

also, your list of 'on the fence' items total over $3K - that's approximately 12.5 more track days at an average of $250/day. if it were me, i'd buy the seat time instead of masking novice errors or insufficient skill with hardware. but I'm really not sure of how much seat time you currently have.

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Old 05-11-2007, 09:47 PM   #19
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i have none ... and thats good advice man...
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:37 AM   #20
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All i would do is Pads and fluid at the most. I tracked my Sti when it was stock and everything worked fine. They are great track cars stock . The important part is to have fun!!!!!!!! What days are you planning on going up and make sure you take some pics.
- Jim
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