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Old 11-21-2008, 10:11 PM   #101
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I'll keep an eye on the weather because I'm going one day that there's a STRONG tailwind.

I think on one of my two full passes this year that the car actually went in the 10's.
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Old 11-21-2008, 10:53 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Driven View Post
I think I need to convince you to tune at the track so you're 600whp car goes faster than 13's! My 380whp car (last time I was on the dyno) run's a little quicker than your 600hp turd. :D

You are right though, dyno tuning has it's place. Dyno numbers don't mean squat.
Your completely right.I had my 93' TSi tuned on the street on pump gas,the car went 11.01.The following week I had the car on a Mustang dyno.It made 384whp/335fl.lbs.
Few weeks later I tuned the car on the street on c-16.It went 10.66 at the track.About a month later I had the car on a DynoJet dyno and made 557whp/434ft.lbs.
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Old 11-22-2008, 12:42 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000whpTSi View Post
Your completely right.I had my 93' TSi tuned on the street on pump gas,the car went 11.01.The following week I had the car on a Mustang dyno.It made 384whp/335fl.lbs.
Few weeks later I tuned the car on the street on c-16.It went 10.66 at the track.About a month later I had the car on a DynoJet dyno and made 557whp/434ft.lbs.
It's a good idea to stay on the same dyno with the same settings as you can see in your example they are not in sync with each other. But while tunning it's nice to be able to see the trq curve and compare what the changes did to the curve.
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Old 11-23-2008, 12:41 AM   #104
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Chassis dyno for a sub 600whp car is fine, when you start getting into the kind of power that causes tire spin on the dyno then yeah I'd say get what you can together and get out on the track and tune it. Other than that, no reason not to use a dyno as a good tuning tool, just don't act like it's the end all be all to what you're putting down.

How do you guys think I feel. My goal is to run 10.99 with the Civic, best I've done so far is a 14.1 @ 114 lol.
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Relax, bud. When the dude with a drag Honda and a boosted daily that has had fast Honda's for years AND fabs his own parts tells the new kids on the block that they're doing it wrong, it's time to step back and learn something.
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Old 11-24-2008, 12:04 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by 1000whpTSi View Post
In order to launch hard with a high HP AWD car you really need to invest in the drivetrain.A twin disc clutch is imperative.On drag radials i launch at 7,000 riding the pedal for most of 1st gear.Thats on a street tune.Somewhere around 550-600whp.On race fuel the motor makes 350+hp more so I'm leaving the line a lot less agressively.I run all DSS stage 5 axles,DSS 3.5" HD Techapulse driveshaft,Shep Dogbox,DSS transfer case,Stress treated rear diff and there is still a great risk of breakage when launching this car hard.So in referance to the statement above about launching an AWD car harder,yes you can get off the line quicker with less spin but at the same time care must be taken.It also depends on the power output and selection of clutch.Your not gonna' benefit from just going with a single disc clutch with a high pressure plate rating.A twin or triple disc clutch and knowing how to modulate the pedal is really going to be the most important part.


Couldn't have been better put
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Old 11-25-2008, 03:25 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Renegade_ View Post
He's not talking about the actual gears failing, he's talking about casing fatigue/hypoid gear failures. The 5MT casing sucks and if andrewtech doesn't replace the hypoid gear... then thats obviously going to break. Ask them if they replace it or use OEM, because OEM for sure will break.

BTW, hypoid gear is this...



You can see its not actually one of the gears replaced in a 5 speed box if all it comes with is a gearset

Is the hypoid gear the pinion? I broke that the last tranny ago. Its funny you mention that anyways because in the next month I will be heading down to andrewtech to have my trans built.
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Old 11-25-2008, 04:39 PM   #107
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Its funny you mention that anyways because in the next month I will be heading down to andrewtech to have my trans built.
Do you stack dough for a living?
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:20 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by UnderPoweredRS View Post
It's a good idea to stay on the same dyno with the same settings as you can see in your example they are not in sync with each other. But while tunning it's nice to be able to see the trq curve and compare what the changes did to the curve.
Well,yeah.That was my point.I can't get why there is such a fluctuation in numbers from dyno to dyno.I mean I understand the reason why,but I don't understand why they don't correct it.
I mean you don't see that type of fluctuation in engine dynos.Thats like using two different tq. wrenches and having to use different tq. settings from one wrench to the other.
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:28 AM   #109
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Do you stack dough for a living?
nope... biiiig loan lol
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:27 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000whpTSi View Post
Well,yeah.That was my point.I can't get why there is such a fluctuation in numbers from dyno to dyno.I mean I understand the reason why,but I don't understand why they don't correct it.
I mean you don't see that type of fluctuation in engine dynos.Thats like using two different tq. wrenches and having to use different tq. settings from one wrench to the other.
Well it's all in the way the operator sets the dyno up. You can set a dyno up so that is shows a stock wrx making 400 hp but the chart will look the same the numbers will just be higher. You don't tune off numbers anyway you tune off the hp and trq curves. I have dynoed my car on a Mustang dyno and on a Dynojet both gave me different peak numbers(The dyno jet was about 20hp higher) but if you layed the charts over each other the charts are almost exactly the same and thats all that matters. Like what has already been said a real test of how much power you are making is your trap speed and/or the MPH gained from the 1/8th to the 1/4 mile marks.

Two Mustang dynos of the same model won't spit out the same numbers unless they are both configured the exact same way in the software. The Mustang dyno I use was calibrated by Mustang after it was installed. They came out with a bunch of equipment and set the thing up correctly. Not many shops want to pay the extra money to have the dyno calibrated correctly so they just punch in "suggested" numbers provided by the dyno manufacture.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:28 PM   #111
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nope... biiiig loan lol
If you want to save some money let me know. I'm friends with a Subaru tech that builds transmissions for rally cars.
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:43 AM   #112
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IMO, Dyno=decent tuning tool and great way to figure out your shift points. This year will be my first time ever on one. As far as dyno numbers, i've seen 700+ hp cars run high 11's...not very impressed. Things that i've always stressed are P/W ratio and driving skills as well as agressive tuning. From here on out i'll we'll be tuning at the track, no more street pull at this hp level.

Dave
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Old 11-28-2008, 07:15 PM   #113
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You and matt need to come by KHC for a day on the rollers..There is a tree for the dyno for 1/4 mile passes as well..Load bearing mustang ftw..
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IMO, Dyno=decent tuning tool and great way to figure out your shift points. This year will be my first time ever on one. As far as dyno numbers, i've seen 700+ hp cars run high 11's...not very impressed. Things that i've always stressed are P/W ratio and driving skills as well as agressive tuning. From here on out i'll we'll be tuning at the track, no more street pull at this hp level.

Dave
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:49 PM   #114
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You and matt need to come by KHC for a day on the rollers..There is a tree for the dyno for 1/4 mile passes as well..Load bearing mustang ftw..
I'll take you up on this ! We're in the process of finishing the fuel system and waiting for V3 to come out.

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Old 11-28-2008, 09:45 PM   #115
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I'll take you up on this ! We're in the process of finishing the fuel system and waiting for V3 to come out.

Dave
Just tell Matt or let me know..
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