Erik's 89 Civic Hatchback Project~Gonna fork out the money and tough it out - Page 4 - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

frosti108 · 10-21-2008, 10:39 PM

its pretty much around 40 for body panels... might be 35 for fenders, 40 for bumper, 40 for hood... something around that. then the trick is to grab a bunch of little stuff in your shopping cart and only point out the big stuff to the lady at the window... if lucks on your side, you wont get charged for everything

sometimes they go as far as checking your tool box, but usually they dont care

Erik · 10-21-2008, 10:44 PM

ohh i see. as of now, i just need the front and rear bumper impact bars, seats, and fender. so hopefully not alll that much

frosti108 · 10-21-2008, 11:00 PM

seats are like 25 per

why the rear bumper?

Erik · 10-21-2008, 11:02 PM

rusted like a mother****er lol. i sat on the back bumper and i had to sweet underneath the car lol

frosti108 · 10-22-2008, 03:10 AM

ah damn. sorry about that lol

did u end up being able to work on it at your girls house? did your step dad find out and kill you / molest your dead body yet?

Erik · 10-22-2008, 09:39 AM

lol yea, its like half stripped in the girlfriends driveway. her dad is all about it. my stepdad is calling me an asshole cuz he saw it there lol we will see. Her dad is asking when he can help swap the engine lol. hes working on a 79' lincoln continental or something. things so pimp hah

CWBETB · 10-22-2008, 09:54 AM

Ahh! Another Effer! Welcome! Chianti Red like my hatch also! SovXietday is a great source of info! Like most of the other guys said, D series boosted is cheap and will get you near or around the 200hp mark. Really 200hp in a EF is pretty quick, they dont weigh much at all. If you going NA shoot for a B Series, K would be great but they are not made to fit in a EF "cutting apart hood etc"

I have some parts laying you might be interested in also. We have a bunch of guys on automotionce also into Hondas that might be able to help you out.

And here is a link to my EF, will give you some ideas, feel free to shoot me any messages if you need to find parts etc

http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/...ad.php?t=63703

Erik · 10-22-2008, 10:01 AM

thanks for the kind words bro. my first honda, or even import for that matter. Ive been on TST for almost 3 years, just took a very long break in the middle of it so im no stranger lol. yea as you can see on pg 1 and 2 sov and i have been going back and forth deciding which series to use.

edit - just looked at your honda and damn thats clean. you have the rims i was contemplating buying when i do my suspension setup lol damn! As for the color, i like it a lot too but i dont know if im going to keep it. i have to replace the entire front end so i may just get the entire car painted.

Erik · 10-22-2008, 11:35 AM

Looking for someone local to the doylestown area weld in some sheet metal. Refer to post 52 on pg three for a pic. i can get additional pics if needed. a few spots will be like this in a few days. i just need the pieces welded in, i can grind everything down.

SovXietday · 10-22-2008, 02:15 PM

Whoever said put a D16Y8 in it, don't put a D16Y8 in it. LOL. I just did that to my CRX and zomg what a pain in the ass that was.

Welding the new metal in shouldn't really be that hard. Just get a mig and practice to the side with some scrap metal and then cut/tack/weld your new piece in. You cut it out and ground out the rust, might as well as just finish it up now ya know? You can always use body filler to smooth out the imperfections, that's what it's good for.

As far as the manual swap goes, really the only thing you'll need is the third pedal, clutch cable, a transmission and new rear/side mounts, and a shifter/shift linkage. All of which can be had for next to nothing at the junkyard.

There should be previsions for the third pedal under the dashboard already there, and I'm sure there are bolt holes for the shift linkage, but I'm not sure.

Erik · 10-22-2008, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SovXietday

Whoever said put a D16Y8 in it, don't put a D16Y8 in it. LOL. I just did that to my CRX and zomg what a pain in the ass that was.

Welding the new metal in shouldn't really be that hard. Just get a mig and practice to the side with some scrap metal and then cut/tack/weld your new piece in. You cut it out and ground out the rust, might as well as just finish it up now ya know? You can always use body filler to smooth out the imperfections, that's what it's good for.

As far as the manual swap goes, really the only thing you'll need is the third pedal, clutch cable, a transmission and new rear/side mounts, and a shifter/shift linkage. All of which can be had for next to nothing at the junkyard.

There should be previsions for the third pedal under the dashboard already there, and I'm sure there are bolt holes for the shift linkage, but I'm not sure.

dont mig welders run around like 500 bucks? lol id have no problem doing it myself, i like making the car as much of a personal project as possible. as for the manual swap, i figured most of it will be just dropping it in place and what not.

delspool · 10-22-2008, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erik

dont mig welders run around like 500 bucks? lol id have no problem doing it myself, i like making the car as much of a personal project as possible. as for the manual swap, i figured most of it will be just dropping it in place and what not.

at some home depots and stores like that you can rent one for pretty cheap

Erik · 10-22-2008, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by delspool

at some home depots and stores like that you can rent one for pretty cheap

oh for real? Ill check the lowes and home depot around the corner from me. im assuming they sell sheet metal then too.

SovXietday · 10-22-2008, 03:50 PM

Yeah, you should be able to rent one. Harbor freight def will. If not you'll have to find someone.

Also, I'd pick up a patch panel for your car. It will be a lot easier than trying to form sheet metal

Loserkidwac · 10-22-2008, 04:36 PM

You could also just use rivets and then grind them down and use body filler...its gonna be hard to weld the if you aren't experienced...I think you will end up warping a lot of it because of the heat...I'm experienced with mig welding and I'm scared to weld on body panels

Also agree with SovXietday the D16y8 isn't a good choice...I'd try to stay with OBD0 and possibly OBD1 motors at least till you have some Honda experience under your belt...

I'd also add that for the pedal swap...just get all 3 pedals other wise you will have the big brake pedal from the auto pedal set and it will sit dangerously close to your clutch pedal...wouldn't want to end up hitting the wrong one...For the EG auto to manual swap I believe I also had to use the manual throttle cable since the auto pedal and cable were different then the manual one...not sure if this is true for EFs or not but just a heads up

Erik · 10-22-2008, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Loserkidwac

You could also just use rivets and then grind them down and use body filler...its gonna be hard to weld the if you aren't experienced...I think you will end up warping a lot of it because of the heat...I'm experienced with mig welding and I'm scared to weld on body panels

Also agree with SovXietday the D16y8 isn't a good choice...I'd try to stay with OBD0 and possibly OBD1 motors at least till you have some Honda experience under your belt...

I'd also add that for the pedal swap...just get all 3 pedals other wise you will have the big brake pedal from the auto pedal set and it will sit dangerously close to your clutch pedal...wouldn't want to end up hitting the wrong one...For the EG auto to manual swap I believe I also had to use the manual throttle cable since the auto pedal and cable were different then the manual one...not sure if this is true for EFs or not but just a heads up

Yea i knew that about the pedals. idk what i should do bout the rust spots. I looked into Home Depot and its 56 bucks for 24 hours.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SovXietday

Yeah, you should be able to rent one. Harbor freight def will. If not you'll have to find someone.

Also, I'd pick up a patch panel for your car. It will be a lot easier than trying to form sheet metal

can you get those from junk yards?

BigWhiteTodd · 10-22-2008, 09:45 PM

patch panel ebay they should have them as for welding you gotta spread the heat out you do little tack welds do some on one side the some on the other side, allow a little time for cooling make sure your welder is set, by doing so just a peace of metal same thickness and practice should sound like bacon frying... yeah i know alot went to school for it haha

Erik · 10-22-2008, 11:07 PM

Rear Arch patch panel <-- awesome deal for 40 bucks. Im gonna order the part tomorrow after my paycheck hits. i believe i want the Left side right? Its on the driver side, so im assuming thats left side?

crexxy90 · 10-22-2008, 11:37 PM

welding on body panels or any thin metal requires great patience which is why is best you prep the whole car so your constantly working on it

riveting and grinding is kinda chincy but if do go that route pick up the eastwood welderless body patch kit

Erik · 10-22-2008, 11:52 PM

would you recommend riveting and grinding over welding? I just got in touch with a buddy that went to school for welding. im sure he knows mig, but right now he builds battery boxes and other brackets for fork lifts or something -- kinda random huh? eitherway, im going to see if he can hook me up. Im more familiar with a rotary tool than a welder, thats for sure.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
^^that what your referring to?

10-21-2008, 10:44 PM	#62
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	ohh i see. as of now, i just need the front and rear bumper impact bars, seats, and fender. so hopefully not alll that much __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods

10-21-2008, 11:02 PM	#64
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	rusted like a mother***er lol. i sat on the back bumper and i had to sweet underneath the car lol __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.* 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods

10-22-2008, 09:39 AM	#66
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	lol yea, its like half stripped in the girlfriends driveway. her dad is all about it. my stepdad is calling me an asshole cuz he saw it there lol we will see. Her dad is asking when he can help swap the engine lol. hes working on a 79' lincoln continental or something. things so pimp hah __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods

10-22-2008, 09:54 AM	#67
CWBETB Tri-State Addict Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Reading Pa Member #2587 iTrader: (0)	Ahh! Another Effer! Welcome! Chianti Red like my hatch also! SovXietday is a great source of info! Like most of the other guys said, D series boosted is cheap and will get you near or around the 200hp mark. Really 200hp in a EF is pretty quick, they dont weigh much at all. If you going NA shoot for a B Series, K would be great but they are not made to fit in a EF "cutting apart hood etc" I have some parts laying you might be interested in also. We have a bunch of guys on automotionce also into Hondas that might be able to help you out. And here is a link to my EF, will give you some ideas, feel free to shoot me any messages if you need to find parts etc http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/...ad.php?t=63703 __________________ 90 Honda Civic ZC Turbo From Reading Pa area?? Check out... AutoMotion To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

10-22-2008, 10:01 AM	#68
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	thanks for the kind words bro. my first honda, or even import for that matter. Ive been on TST for almost 3 years, just took a very long break in the middle of it so im no stranger lol. yea as you can see on pg 1 and 2 sov and i have been going back and forth deciding which series to use. edit - just looked at your honda and damn thats clean. you have the rims i was contemplating buying when i do my suspension setup lol damn! As for the color, i like it a lot too but i dont know if im going to keep it. i have to replace the entire front end so i may just get the entire car painted. __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods Last edited by Erik; 10-22-2008 at 10:03 AM.

10-21-2008, 10:39 PM	#61
frosti108 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: norristown Member #5883 My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)	its pretty much around 40 for body panels... might be 35 for fenders, 40 for bumper, 40 for hood... something around that. then the trick is to grab a bunch of little stuff in your shopping cart and only point out the big stuff to the lady at the window... if lucks on your side, you wont get charged for everything sometimes they go as far as checking your tool box, but usually they dont care

10-21-2008, 11:00 PM	#63
frosti108 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: norristown Member #5883 My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)	seats are like 25 per why the rear bumper?

10-22-2008, 03:10 AM	#65
frosti108 Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: norristown Member #5883 My Ride: Track- RB S13. Street- 2J SC300 + SR S14 iTrader: (10)	ah damn. sorry about that lol did u end up being able to work on it at your girls house? did your step dad find out and kill you / molest your dead body yet?

10-22-2008, 11:35 AM	#69
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	Looking for someone local to the doylestown area weld in some sheet metal. Refer to post 52 on pg three for a pic. i can get additional pics if needed. a few spots will be like this in a few days. i just need the pieces welded in, i can grind everything down. __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods

10-22-2008, 04:36 PM	#75
Loserkidwac Tri-State Addict Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: SE PA Member #2550 My Ride: 1992 Mazda Miata, 1991 Honda CRX Si LS-T, 95 Civic VX iTrader: (3)	You could also just use rivets and then grind them down and use body filler...its gonna be hard to weld the if you aren't experienced...I think you will end up warping a lot of it because of the heat...I'm experienced with mig welding and I'm scared to weld on body panels Also agree with SovXietday the D16y8 isn't a good choice...I'd try to stay with OBD0 and possibly OBD1 motors at least till you have some Honda experience under your belt... I'd also add that for the pedal swap...just get all 3 pedals other wise you will have the big brake pedal from the auto pedal set and it will sit dangerously close to your clutch pedal...wouldn't want to end up hitting the wrong one...For the EG auto to manual swap I believe I also had to use the manual throttle cable since the auto pedal and cable were different then the manual one...not sure if this is true for EFs or not but just a heads up __________________ MoHawks are Cool To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

10-22-2008, 09:45 PM	#77
BigWhiteTodd Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: North Wales Member #8795 My Ride: 01 camaro iTrader: (0)	patch panel ebay they should have them as for welding you gotta spread the heat out you do little tack welds do some on one side the some on the other side, allow a little time for cooling make sure your welder is set, by doing so just a peace of metal same thickness and practice should sound like bacon frying... yeah i know alot went to school for it haha

10-22-2008, 11:07 PM	#78
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	Rear Arch patch panel <-- awesome deal for 40 bucks. Im gonna order the part tomorrow after my paycheck hits. i believe i want the Left side right? Its on the driver side, so im assuming thats left side? __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods

10-22-2008, 11:52 PM	#80
Erik Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Glenside, PA Member #1962 My Ride: 2001 Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo iTrader: (4)	would you recommend riveting and grinding over welding? I just got in touch with a buddy that went to school for welding. im sure he knows mig, but right now he builds battery boxes and other brackets for fork lifts or something -- kinda random huh? eitherway, im going to see if he can hook me up. Im more familiar with a rotary tool than a welder, thats for sure. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT ^^that what your referring to? __________________ --Eric '96 Mazda Miata \| FM V-Maxx Coilovers \| Jackson Racing Exhaust/Intake GONE To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. 01' Audi A6 2.7 Twin Turbo \| Daily \| NoMods Last edited by Erik; 10-22-2008 at 11:58 PM.

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