"Honey Badger" Miata: Turbo Track Build (new brakes installed)

[Honest_Bob]

Go to the nearest parts store and pickup their cheapest blank rotor. Done

Thats what I did and I have no regrets. Worked fine with my hawks.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by motorvated

check ebay too. there are vendors that sell OEM stuff WAY cheaper then the dealer.

They do carry OEM equiptment but buying from eBay, I wouldn't trust it to be genuine OEM 100% of the time. Their slotted rotors are also a hit or miss from what I hear.

Originally Posted by Honest_Bob

Go to the nearest parts store and pickup their cheapest blank rotor. Done

Thats what I did and I have no regrets. Worked fine with my hawks.

Will definately look into that. I don't race my car all the time but sometimes I do like to drive it hard, want the brakes to hold up to that.

[Kevin]

Brembo OEM replacement rotors are good too.

[russiankid]

Originally Posted by Kevin

Brembo OEM replacement rotors are good too.

Just make sure to break them in properly. My brother had some issues with his and ended up going with Raybestos professional grade, which is what I have as well all around.

[Kevin]

I personally think that the whole "proper break in" technique for rotors is complete bull****.

[motorvated]

its just like anything else in a car...dont go beat the sh*t out of brand new stuff. Clutches have break in periods, as do motors and rotors...lol

[CleanNeon98]

Kinda bringing this over from the BB Meet thread. Had this on my wallpaper for a few days now and kinda starting to grow on the look. Here is the shot again



I would like to possibly have a look like this for next summer, less the larger FMIC (his setup NEEDS it and mine doesn't) and the fog light delete. Here is the breakdown

949 Racing 6UL 15x9 Bronze + 38 w/1.75" lip 13.4lbs each - $197 per wheel
949 Racing lugs x16 black - $56
949 Racing valve stems x8 - $34

225 45 15 Hankook Ventus RS2 tire. This will have the same look as the fitment in the pic, very little strech. - $99 per tire

Rollbar and seat may have to wait but pricing on them anyway.

Harddog double diagonal sport m2 (same bar as in the pic I think) - $385 + shipping

Sparco ??? seat - $???

If I commit to this, I would like to have the wheels and tires done by mid summer, the rest can wait.

Still have to contact the owner of the car and see what his ride height is set at, he is on coilovers and while he still has the same kind of rake in the stance as I do, I need measurements from the center of the wheel to the fender so I can determine if I will need more sidewall or what else. I want my car to sit pretty much exactly like that one, but if he is dropped more than me I don't want to end up with wheelgap.

So...yes or no?

[motorvated]

I think for your car, its an awesome look AND extremely functional. If you plan on tracking your car, its deff. a huge step in the right direction. The roll bar not only make this car a lot safer, it also adds a lot of rigidity to the body.

[CleanNeon98]

Here are a few more pix of other Miatas with the same wheel

15x9 +38 with a Nitto NT01 in 225 45 I think




The wheel itself in matte bronze



15x9 +38 with a Hoosier a6 275 wide



I think for being that wide, they fit the car well and with a 225 45 I won't have to roll fenders or shave anything away, just put them on and drive. I like how they sit flush with the line of the body (see first pic) and I like how they look good and are still very functional at the same time.

[oneday]

Originally Posted by Kevin

I personally think that the whole "proper break in" technique for rotors is complete bull****.

The break in for rotors and bads is extremely important.
Carbotech on bedding in pads/rotors
Hawk on the same subject.
And StopTech's take on bedding

Take a car to the track with out bedding in pads, tell me how you like the wall in turn one.

[TalonTsi97]

I've always liked those wheels, i think they would be a great pickup for your car. I forget what the seats are like in a MSM but i think the sparco can wait unless your planning or really tracking the car.

[oneday]

Originally Posted by CleanNeon98

It's a great look. I've been saying that I'm going to get the 15x8 6ULs for next year, but I've opted for other stuff (bought another Miata for parts to do a motor swap, but that's for another post/thread).

That bar isn't the HD DD..that looks like a custom roll bar? I have the DD:

[Buster]

Originally Posted by oneday

The break in for rotors and bads is extremely important.
Carbotech on bedding in pads/rotors
Hawk on the same subject.
And StopTech's take on bedding

Take a car to the track with out bedding in pads, tell me how you like the wall in turn one.

I have to agree, anyone who doesnt bed the pads properly or break in the rotors has never had to stop @140. I have Hawk HP+ with DBA 4000s up front and HP+ with stock rotors in the rear and this thing stops hard. But I always take it easy for the first 100 or so miles and stage stop when they first go on.

[Kevin]

My hawk HPS/powerslot combo works sick. Car stops amazing for the tank that it is, no abs and does great. Idk about stopping at 140mph, my cars not racing @ Daytona Motor Speedway.

[pearl]

i scrolled through this thread and thought CN bought wheels. what a let down.

[motorvated]

I'de say instead of spending $500+ on a new seat...you should invest in a better intercooler. I know you think its gonna make people want to race you, but it wont..well not anymore then the wheels and roll bar will. If your going to seriously track your car an intercooler should be on the list. You can go to a bigger FMIC without dropping any PSI, without chopping the car up and it will stop heat soak when you track the car.

[CleanNeon98]

It's not going to heatsoak anything, and there is no reason for that large of an FMIC on such a small engine with such little power. Autocross heats last what...a minute, 2 minutes topps? It won't heatsoak that fast.

[oneday]

I think mortovated is referring to "tracking" as going to a road course (like NJMP) and you are saying "racing" as in autocross.

AutoX runs are 30-75 seconds tops..so heat soak is a non-issue. If you do start tracking the car, the bigger FMIC is a good option.

[motorvated]

No, I know hes talking about Auto-x. I just know for a fact my VW would heat soak in daily driving during summer months. Not just cruising, but any extended period of hard driving. I had to upgrade my OEM IC to get rid of it. So being that he pushes his car on the streets, and plans to run Auto-X...i think its a good idea. But again, I also said the 6ULs and roll bar were a good idea 3 days ago and you disagreed with that. Either way, i'de put a larger FMIC before a race seat.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by motorvated

No, I know hes talking about Auto-x. I just know for a fact my VW would heat soak in daily driving during summer months. Not just cruising, but any extended period of hard driving. I had to upgrade my OEM IC to get rid of it. So being that he pushes his car on the streets, and plans to run Auto-X...i think its a good idea. But again, I also said the 6ULs and roll bar were a good idea 3 days ago and you disagreed with that. Either way, i'de put a larger FMIC before a race seat.

A seat is going to let me sit further back and slightly lower than the stock seats do, giving me a more comfortable driving position. Its also going to be more supportive, the bolstering on my stockers is terrible.

An fmic is going to...do nothing for me except empty another 100 dollars from my bank account and make me cut up my stock piping so when I prove to myself that it's tacky and pointless for what I do, I won't be able to put the stock one back in.

It didn't heatsoak on the CHAOS run with STis and other faster cars, it didn't heatsoak on the Turkey Run with exotics, and I don't think it will soak at all on a short auto-x run.

If and when the car starts seeing an actual racetrack, I will look into it, but for my short-term goals, it is useless.