Slowly but Surely- 325iX, 325iS, and E30M3 resurrection

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by PAdutch

This is how I feel about miatas at this point. I still enjoy them but man sometimes I wish there was some go when I press the pedal.

Couldn't agree more. I got more "go when you hit the pedal stuff today" for the Scoob. Someone local had brand new TGV deletes and a VF48 turbo with 4500 miles on it for a good price, how can you say no to that?

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[PAdutch]

Sweet Im interested to hear what you think when the forester is done.

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by PAdutch

Sweet Im interested to hear what you think when the forester is done.

I will! The engine stuff will be a little while as I'm not exactly excited to pull the intake and turbo, and most of that stuff has to be done at the same time. TMIC, SAP delete (my valves failed), up pipe, downpipe, engine mounts, etc. It's not going to be fun.

I did, however, get 04 STI OEM Springs and some WRX AGX struts, so I'll retain stock suspension travel, all while lowering the car a pretty significant amount. I'm sure my camber curve will be terrible but I'm not too worried about it (also likely will have similar dynamic toe issues). From what I've read the "roll center kit" does little to correct this, but it is available if I deem it necessary.

I ended up getting wheel bearings, control arm bushings and a bunch of other stuff that should really make the car feel fresh. I think the STI steering rack will make a pretty significant difference in feel, too.

Stealth edit:

I installed the 2015 TMIC and bypass valve, along with a "Group N" pitch stop mount. Turns out the pitch stop mount was the same damn thing as my stock unit, but had "STi" stamped into it.

The interwebz said "it'd be easy and the TMIC bolts right up", so I ordered an intercooler bracket off of the '15 STI to make for an easy install along with new couplers, etc. I ended up having to fab up a bracket out of that new piece that didn't fit, modify my new couplers, an AC line and a wastegate line. It's the biggest stock Subaru TMIC and I got it for über cheap so it's all good.

Please appreciate the "160K miles and no engine cover" engine glamour shot below.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[blue91lx]

She's back from alignment and drives like a dream on this new setup.

IMG_2755 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[DocWalt]

On my BRZ the "Group N" mounts looked identical to stock, but were definitely stiffer.

BMW lookin' good

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

On my BRZ the "Group N" mounts looked identical to stock, but were definitely stiffer.

BMW lookin' good

Thanks! I've been cruising it around- it's a treat to drive. That's interesting. The rubber on the Group N unit didn't feel stiffer either to the touch, but it's likely a different compound. I *think* it made a difference?

[blue91lx]

I've been messing with my new Torq 10FX and having a blast!

The windshield on Linda was so pitted and scratched with water marks you could hardly see through it in most conditions. I took to it with invisible glass, a razor blade, steel wool, clay, some pretty aggressive compound with a orange hex logic pad, and then finally sealed it with Jetseal to fight against further contamination, water spots, etc.

The results were awesome! So awesome that I did the windshield on the white car as well, and clayed the rest of the glass. I'm now obsessed with glass cleaning.

This is how bad it was pitted:

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




This was after the full process was completed and the sealant cured and was buffed off.

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The white iX has half the miles so I didn't have to do nearly as much work to get a great result:

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Rear glass after clay:

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And Linda has some failing clear coat on the roof and trunk lid, so I am working out a solution to make it look as good as I can. I started by taking a razor blade and getting all of the flaking clear removed. I'm going to wet sand the surrounding clear to minimize the step and am going to polish and seal the base coat. It should really help overall appearance, even though it won't be perfect. Also, it looks like this paint has been obliterated by car washes for 30 years, so it's going to be a fun experiment to get all of the scratches/swirls out and seal it up.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[DocWalt]

Man! The windshield polishing is awesome. I need to give that a try if you have any tips. I'd always done plain old cerium oxide, but the GTI windshield is pitted like yours was and it wasn't very effective.

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Man! The windshield polishing is awesome. I need to give that a try if you have any tips. I'd always done plain old cerium oxide, but the GTI windshield is pitted like yours was and it wasn't very effective.

I used a DA with a 6" medium cutting pad (hex logic orange), and used V32 heavy cutting polish from Chemcial Guys, and also used their Jetseal product for sealant. On one application of cutting polish I ran 4-5 vertical and horizontal patterns over half the windshield, and I ended up with 3-4 applications per side, as mine was extremely pitted. I smoothed out the product on a low speed first and then hit it with the highest setting on the DA.

It took way longer than I originally expected on the red car, but glass is hard I think someone ran this thing with dead wipers back in the day, too, as there were heavy wiper scratches in addition to the pitting. It definitely didn't get all of it out, but with the cut/polish/seal it is a world of a difference, and I get to keep my OEM BMW logo on the windshield.

[Big_Jim]

That glass polishing is amazing. I'd love to do that for my truck.

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by Big_Jim

That glass polishing is amazing. I'd love to do that for my truck.

It's a game changer. I would recommend it to everyone/anyone, and it honestly doesn't take much work if you have a DA! They can be had on the cheap at Harbor Freight.

[blue91lx]

I gave Linda her first real wash since I've had her. I tried a new wash from Chemical Guys, a new microfiber brush (been using an old school horse hair brush for years that I got when I was 15 when I worked at a Mustang Resto shop), and I took my time with clay to remove contaminants to give me a clean slate for polishing and sealing. I dried the car after the wash before clay with a large waffle (waffles) drying towel, and went over the car with two different microfibers after clay to make sure it was 100%.

This paint was in rough shape. Some heavy scratches, hard water marks, imperfections, etc. Linda is a driver, so I don't much mind that, but want to make it look as presentable as I can and seal it up so it doesn't get any worse.

After a detailed wash and clay

IMG_2768 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
IMG_2769 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
IMG_2764 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




Then I moved inside and got to polishing. I started with the hood..... and ended with the hood. I had to hit each 2x2 section several times to get the finish I'm going for. From here on out, though, it should be a nice and easy cleanup and I shouldn't have to cut like this again.


Starting out:

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A couple passes in:

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Now we're getting somewhere:

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Side by side:

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Polished, sealed, delivered


Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




Now I just have to do the rest of the car..... and the white iX....... and the M3......... and my daily...... uh oh.

[DaveSTi]

That is looking really good! Is that original paint?

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by DaveSTi

That is looking really good! Is that original paint?

Thanks! Unfortunately it looks like the car was at least cleared at some point. I'm not sure if the base coat is original or not. Perfect for me, though, because I don't feel bad about driving it All panels are original aside from the drivers fender and hood, which are BMW DOT-R panels so I don't too much care. It's always a mystery what you find on a 30yr old car with 227k miles on the broken ODO (likely closer to 300K).

In other news, my new DA died after polishing two hoods and a roof. After further research I found out that this company was made as a sister company to Chemical Guys, so the "Torq" name has no backing or experience whatsoever in the tool industry. It's just chinese junk marketed very, very well, and since their videos were so helpful I didn't feel bad supporting their products.... if only they backed it up with quality.

I think I'm going to need to upgrade to a Rupes unit, as nothing really seems to last. Crazy expensive, but will be a one time purchase.

[empera]

FAWK that good awesome. That thing looks mint. Im jealous as i dont even like washing my cars lol...

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by empera

FAWK that good awesome. That thing looks mint. Im jealous as i dont even like washing my cars lol...

Thanks man! Honestly I hated cleaning cars until I had a good process, which only happened recently cleaning up all of these diamonds in the rough.

What helped me was to get equipped with:

-A good drying towel (waffle weave microfiber)
-A good brush (decent quality microfiber)
-A cheapie Harbor Freight electric pressure washer
-A good set of microfiber applicators/towels

Other easy bonuses to get you jazzed about cleaning:

-Clay is fun and honestly takes very little effort and while it doesn't make your stuff shiny, it pulls a ton of contaminants out. Synthetic clay bar is the most accessible with the least maintenance (use any exterior quick detailer as "clay lube")
-Trying out paint sealants instead of wax. I find they're much easier to work with than wax and provide a better result with more protection than a typical wax when it comes to UV, water, etc.

For the longest time I used **** towels, an old brush, a super dirty applicator pad for wax, etc etc and never wanted to clean because I would never get the desired result. Now for less effort I find my stuff coming out much better than it used to.

Hope that helps.

[mckpat03]

The BMWs are looking so ****ing good man. And you've really got me hyped to clay and polish my car once the weather gets a little warmer.

[blue91lx]

Originally Posted by mckpat03

The BMWs are looking so ****ing good man. And you've really got me hyped to clay and polish my car once the weather gets a little warmer.

Thanks man! They're finally getting the love they deserved. I've had my irons in so many fires since I've been in the midwest I haven't had the chance to really finish much of anything. Feels good to put a few projects to rest, or at least make them shiny.

The iX is back on the market after I finished the cut/polish/seal yesterday.

IMG_2799 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
IMG_2794 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
IMG_2792 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
IMG_2778 by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[blue91lx]

I always forget how shiny paint gets when it's not a crap repaint and/or 30 years old.

I've been cleaning up the Fozz in preparation for sale. Sad day, but I'm over daily driving older, high mileage cars. A 13-14' STI hatch is in my near future.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



I'm also coming along on my detail on Linda. Working out the paint correction, fitting my old school OE Mtech 1 Spoiler, fixed some lights, got some fogs with fresh glass, etc etc.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



Oh and my idea for the peeling clear coat turned out okay. It's the best it's going to be.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[blue91lx]

The Subaru heard the word "sell" and got all scared and started breaking.

My catalytic converter failed so I replaced the exhaust, and I finally got around to doing the SAP delete. I effectively am using a "stealthback" aka 3" downpipe to a 3" midpipe to a stock axleback. Also put on a new rear 02 sensor and a rear caliper that was seized.

The only problem is- the stock axleback does not seal at all to the dual bolt pattern Turbo XS midpipe. Going to try the 3" gasket they give you with a 2.5" gasket to see if that helps it seal.

My buddy owns a tuning company for E30s and happens to have been tuning Subarus for 10+ years so he's going to write me a tune for the addition of the downpipe.

I have already deleted all of the SAP codes with ECU flash/romraider.

For the SAP delete, I removed the passenger side valve and put the block off plate at the tube that runs under the intake. To put it at the passenger side block the up pipe needed to be removed and I wasn't about to do that. The drivers side valve has the baro sensor in it so the valve needs to stay in the car and plugged in, however I put the plate at the block and removed the tube from that valve.

I still can't believe how often these fail and how expensive they are to replace if you want to fix it with new valves/pump. All just to warm up the cat quicker at idle and push clean air into the exhaust for emissions.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr