Erik's 89 Civic Hatchback Project~Gonna fork out the money and tough it out

[AutobahnRacer]

best fricken engine is a h22a1 or an a4. B's can be boosted higher than H-series, but if ur looking for all engine go H22.

Otherwise like everyone else said, get a Teggy Engine

[Erik]

lol well now that ive have like 5 engines thrown at me, ill have to just weigh it out and think about it. Tomorrow im starting some of the body work with the rust. Bondo ftw......... I pulled the front off end off for the most part. The rad support is a little banged up. sov is convinced i can use a tree to fix it lol we will see. This is where im at as of now.



If you look closely on the passenger side, the support is kinked along the top cross member, and caused the support panel to bend inward a little bit. the cross member is up against the radiator. I may have to go play in a U-Pull it for a while.

Originally Posted by Loserkidwac

Let me know I always am willing to get my hands dirt if you need some help on the project, I recently did a auto to manual conversion on my Del Sol so I have experience with that too if you need help, I always love to see some badass EF's rolling around!

I probably will be dropping in the a6. While i do that, i think ill do the manual swap. Think that will be to much at once?

[spoolinLSsol]

Originally Posted by Carministrator

best fricken engine is a h22a1 or an a4. B's can be boosted higher than H-series, but if ur looking for all engine go H22.

Otherwise like everyone else said, get a Teggy Engine

show me how many beast NA h22's u can find........ haha but seriously its too big of a motor to fit properly into the ef chassis, like the K swap u have to cut the hood and there isnt much mod support, stick with anything D or B series

[SovXietday]

Haha dude I'm telling you, that rad support doesn't look bad at all. I'm guessing the headlight support bar is pushed down and back a little bit? Just use a ratcheting strap around a tree to pull it, and then hammer it back up or something. Doesn't look like it needs to move that far at all. All that rad support does is hold the headlight in place anyway, so I'm sure with a bit of tinkering you can get it to line up right.

[crexxy90]

h series isnt too good for an EF, makes the front end way too heavy for a DD, great for a track car but youll be kicking yourself if you use it on the road very much.

b or d series ftw!

[crexxy90]

Originally Posted by SovXietday

Haha dude I'm telling you, that rad support doesn't look bad at all. I'm guessing the headlight support bar is pushed down and back a little bit? Just use a ratcheting strap around a tree to pull it, and then hammer it back up or something. Doesn't look like it needs to move that far at all. All that rad support does is hold the headlight in place anyway, so I'm sure with a bit of tinkering you can get it to line up right.

a sledgehammer may come in handy as well!

[Erik]

lol at car suicide with a sledgehammer. look at the top left side of the radiator. see that kink? thats whats bugging me. its kinked pretty bad. maybe a good tug on it a few times will get it back straight. id rather replace it if possible. oem replacement panel alone is 230 something and change. BEAT

[crexxy90]

beat and tug on it a bit, cant hurt, replace if you dont like the results

[jdm free]

you could swap a d16y8 and boost it, youll have a turbod vtec newer motor

[Erik]

Originally Posted by crexxy90

beat and tug on it a bit, cant hurt, replace if you dont like the results

yea, thats true. I guess i should try to atleast fix it before replacing it. Ill bang at it a bit today after grinding some surface rust off and sealing it up. damn wheel fenders.

pics coming later.

[Loserkidwac]

Originally Posted by Erik

I probably will be dropping in the a6. While i do that, i think ill do the manual swap. Think that will be to much at once?

Not sure on your experience but I dn't think that would be to big of an undertaking, just do some research, make a list of the parts needed and what all needs to be done...off the top of my head you will need to do an MPFI conversion, if you want to do the Auto-manual correct you should wire in the clutch relay, plus you will need to rewire the reverse lights...you of course will need the motor w/ MPFI intake mani, injectors and resistors, 5 speed trans (with matching clutch and flywheel some years differ) clutch cable, not sure but you might need to make a custom trans mount, I know the EG chassis mount is different not sure about the EF...and of course some fresh fluids all around...thats a good start a tleast for you...good luck let me know if you need anymore help!

[Erik]

Originally Posted by Loserkidwac

Not sure on your experience but I dn't think that would be to big of an undertaking, just do some research, make a list of the parts needed and what all needs to be done...off the top of my head you will need to do an MPFI conversion, if you want to do the Auto-manual correct you should wire in the clutch relay, plus you will need to rewire the reverse lights...you of course will need the motor w/ MPFI intake mani, injectors and resistors, 5 speed trans (with matching clutch and flywheel some years differ) clutch cable, not sure but you might need to make a custom trans mount, I know the EG chassis mount is different not sure about the EF...and of course some fresh fluids all around...thats a good start a tleast for you...good luck let me know if you need anymore help!

my experience is next to nothing. ive read about it NUMEROUS times whether it was online, magazine, here, other forums, but ive never done it personally. Id love to have a weekend of a few honda guys meeting up to get this taken care of. i am pretty decent with wiring and what not so i dotn think that will be an issue if i have the two wiring schematics in front of me. either way, a hand will always be needed. as for the parts, yea that is a start but i dont know what i will need exactly. ill start throwing a shopping list together.

I started some more body work today. I also tried to best to correct the bending of the rad support. I forgot to get pics of the before and after but its within a few degrees if im not mistaken. I pulled the fender off and managed to wreck every plastic screw for the splash guard. damnit. I also sanded down surface rust on my driver side skirt and bondoed it. No i did not fill any holes lol i know better than that.

I thought i had more surface rust here but i had a nice surprise. Fully rusted through metal. I cut it out.

I want to learn how to fab as i mentioned before, so maybe this can be a way for someone to teach me? I have a few other spots if some body work inclined individuals can help me out.

[foamcup]

Hi, after having a few honda's and doing loads of research and reading, I thought ls-turbo (b18a/b non vtec) was the best route if you're on a budget and seek great hp.

Motors are everywhere, cheap as well. Just piece together a cheap diy turbo kit with a GOOD tune and you're set. Good luck on your project.

[Erik]

Originally Posted by foamcup

Hi, after having a few honda's and doing loads of research and reading, I thought ls-turbo (b18a/b non vtec) was the best route if you're on a budget and seek great hp.

Motors are everywhere, cheap as well. Just piece together a cheap diy turbo kit with a GOOD tune and you're set. Good luck on your project.

thanks for the good words bro. Right now im focused on the body work as you can see. i am bouncing back and forth of the b and d series motors. Time, research, and my financial situation will help me out at the time, right now im tryign to get this mother ready to be inspected and able to be driven.

[BigWhiteTodd]

wait are you just covering the rust with body filler if so not the best way i would say get some kind of a rust killer or a rust blocker kind of deal if not you will be doing body work all over again and dont cover holes either just puttin in my 2 cents

[Erik]

Originally Posted by BigWhiteTodd

wait are you just covering the rust with body filler if so not the best way i would say get some kind of a rust killer or a rust blocker kind of deal if not you will be doing body work all over again and dont cover holes either just puttin in my 2 cents

nope, grinding down. lol i did a little research and from my understanding, bondo is a cheap fix if you grind away and cure the rust, which i did for that little bit. yes there is more a little to the right. i cut the other stuff away cuz there was a legit hole from rust. I thought it was just surface rust like the bondoed part but i punched through it. or well actually tapped through it. I plan on getting the metal that is ravaged by rust, cut out and a new piece of metal tacked back in.

[frosti108]

Originally Posted by Erik

Since we are discussing so much bout my car, i think im gonna ask troll to convert this to a new Member journal. Ill throw up pics that i have from my cell phone of the hatch.



Gotta start somewhere right?

haha i just saw this thread. bitchez luv my ghetto body work with a hammer the hood used to be bent upward and wouldnt close, so i used a ballpeen hammer for a while and got it to hook up to the latch again

Sov is right about the ratchet and a tree. ive seen it done many times.

but man like i said, shorties u-pullit has this full car there, just no engine. you could get the rad support and everything there. good bumper was there, hood was a tiny bit bent up...

good work on that rust though, your definatly on the right track. what tool did u use?

i snapped you one of the tow truck pulling away

[Erik]

rotary tool. or a dremel tool. im a whore for that tool. my favorite investment. lol, i actually like that picture haha. Yea, im gonna have to hit shorties. Oh yea dude, tell your gf to call me or email me or something, she wont answer!

[frosti108]

she says to text her, and that she hasnt gotten any calls from you. i sent u her number incase you have it saved wrong or somethin lol

[Erik]

got ya. any idea how much it costs for shortys? I never used a U-pull it yard before.