AN Fittings, Stainless Braided Lines, where to buy them, how to assemble them, etc. - Page 2 - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

Slo240 · 08-08-2008, 02:11 PM

Just adding food for thought, But is there a reason you're going with Steel braided line instead of normal high pressure? The only concern I have with this is my past experience with SS brake lines. (haven't used them for fuel) It's an argument that comes up from time to time between the two. That some companies gauge the pressure rating by the reinforcement value of the steel braid, not by the urethane hose underneath. So what this means is that if you develop a weak spot over time in your braided line the exposed hose underneath is not the same strength anymore because it doesn't have the support from the braid. I had a SS brake line split on me. (under driving course conditions.) for that very reason.

I'm not positive if this has been changed or not, the last time this topic came up for me was about 3 years ago. But it would be a very good thing to call your manufacturer and ask if the pressure rating of your lines is based on the value of the inner tubing and reinforced by the steel braid or if the rating comes from it as an entire unit.

Good luck with your project!

**TROLL** · 08-13-2008, 01:41 PM

I've started assembling the fuel system now, thanks for the advice from everyone. Things are going just fine... I've read a lot of fuss over this stuff but I really dont see what its all about.
I did want to share something thats definitely helping me out though... Harbor Freight special... $20 and great for cutting the line...

makes cuts like...

and here's the line that will be running from the tank...

Drftpretty · 08-24-2008, 04:47 PM

Just a FYI, Jegs also sells Pre-made AN sections of hose for about $28 per 3 feet with fittings already attached.

I priced out my entire fuel set-up on my Rx-7 and it came to about $180 shipped from the factory fuel hard lines to the carb and back to the factory return line and would be a direct bolt on.

EDIT: While we are on the subject are there any real benefits of AN line over regualr fuel injected high pressure fuel line and the proper FI hose clamps besides chaffing of the hose? Im also about to finish the V8 Rx7 fuel system is the last part!!!

lude98SH · 09-09-2008, 11:53 PM

i use chop box with a metal wheel to cut mine and i assemble it with that kit jegs sells. It works well.

rodder · 09-10-2008, 03:01 PM

hmm, didn't read through the whole thread but I've built countless AN lines in my day. I built an entire -8 fuel system for my 383ci powered S10, tank to carb. I always wrap the lines with duct tape before cutting, and cut them with a dremel on the highest speed it will go. I buy the fittings and hose from either jegs, summit or a local speed shop by my old house in jersey. They have a complete selection of aeroquip fittings and hoses but the prices are higher than mail order so I only drive out there if I'm in a pinch. I have a set of aluminum AN wrenches from summit that I think are a necessity for working with this stuff.

Are you sure your hose is rated for fuel injection? Most of the stainless braided stuff you can get at a speed shop is meant for carbureted applications. You need the high pressure stuff.

rodder · 09-10-2008, 03:06 PM

couple pics:

and the parallel rail system I built for the STi:

cburwell · 01-03-2009, 07:27 PM

To add to the list of useful tools, Koul Tools make getting the hose into the socket simpler (At least they did for me).

http://www.koultools.com/

You put the socket inside that, and then the tool goes into the vice. I didn't quite have the motor skills to get the hose into the socket using just a vice and screw driver.

Vr-4-Life · 01-04-2009, 11:17 AM

bryan i may need to stop by and use your 20 dollar bolt cutter for my return line ;)

joeybags7112 · 01-04-2009, 12:53 PM

A system that worked for me was to wrap the line with strapping tape, it has string in the tape kindalike duct tape , and screw on a fuel line clamp exactly where I wanted to cut and use a dremel. After cutting ,run under cold water, helps the tempature come down and stops the ss mesh from spreading out , then remove the clamp and immediately insert into the fitting. Done. taping the fittings and using a adjustable wrench fitting snug also worked fine with out scratching them.

01-03-2009, 07:27 PM	#27
cburwell Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Apr 2005 Member #303 iTrader: (0)	To add to the list of useful tools, Koul Tools make getting the hose into the socket simpler (At least they did for me). http://www.koultools.com/ You put the socket inside that, and then the tool goes into the vice. I didn't quite have the motor skills to get the hose into the socket using just a vice and screw driver. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. "The Corvette took nearly 25 years to sell 500,000 units; the Z does it in fewer than 10."

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08-08-2008, 02:11 PM	#21
Slo240 Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Jun 2006 Member #2003 My Ride: 93 325i DD ~ 91 MR2 ~ 86 MR2 iTrader: (1)	Just adding food for thought, But is there a reason you're going with Steel braided line instead of normal high pressure? The only concern I have with this is my past experience with SS brake lines. (haven't used them for fuel) It's an argument that comes up from time to time between the two. That some companies gauge the pressure rating by the reinforcement value of the steel braid, not by the urethane hose underneath. So what this means is that if you develop a weak spot over time in your braided line the exposed hose underneath is not the same strength anymore because it doesn't have the support from the braid. I had a SS brake line split on me. (under driving course conditions.) for that very reason. I'm not positive if this has been changed or not, the last time this topic came up for me was about 3 years ago. But it would be a very good thing to call your manufacturer and ask if the pressure rating of your lines is based on the value of the inner tubing and reinforced by the steel braid or if the rating comes from it as an entire unit. Good luck with your project!

09-09-2008, 11:53 PM	#24
lude98SH Tri-State Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Drexel Hill Member #1684 iTrader: (0)	i use chop box with a metal wheel to cut mine and i assemble it with that kit jegs sells. It works well.

01-04-2009, 11:17 AM	#28
Vr-4-Life Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: Philly PA Member #1961 My Ride: BMW E60 M5 V10 6 Speed --- Ducati Monster 696 iTrader: (4)	bryan i may need to stop by and use your 20 dollar bolt cutter for my return line ;)

01-04-2009, 12:53 PM	#29
joeybags7112 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jul 2006 Member #2135 My Ride: 90 tsi E316g 5 spd blk w/ blk lthr 282k iTrader: (0)	A system that worked for me was to wrap the line with strapping tape, it has string in the tape kindalike duct tape , and screw on a fuel line clamp exactly where I wanted to cut and use a dremel. After cutting ,run under cold water, helps the tempature come down and stops the ss mesh from spreading out , then remove the clamp and immediately insert into the fitting. Done. taping the fittings and using a adjustable wrench fitting snug also worked fine with out scratching them.