"Honey Badger" Miata: Turbo Track Build (new brakes installed)

[CleanNeon98]

Kevin that would be great but if youre gonna try to pull plug wires it cant be done. The way my coilpacks are set up and the length of the wires, you can only pull 1 and 4, since 2 and 3 are next to each other you dont have enough length on the wire to fully pull the boot out of the hole...or does it not have to COMPLETELY come out?

[OutToWinPAHC]

nope just my trusty wooden dowel

[CleanNeon98]

Just a heads up you'll have about 5 minutes, once its fully warm you won't hear a thing.

[92accordex]

I wouldn't rule out a lifter tap right away, although it sounds way to heavy for a lifter tap, these cars are pretty known for tapping after 90-100k miles

[CleanNeon98]

Well here it is after a little taking apart. Tech still has more to do then its off to the machine shop and shopping for parts



So far he only removed cylinder 3 because it looked the worst upon head removal



What doesn't match the other 3 here??



Skirt of Cylinder 3



Basically as it looks now, the block, head, and crank are to go to a machine shop for remachine and leakdown testing. New rods, pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, headgasket, studs, clutch, and he named a few other things in Russian that I didn't quite understand haha. Told me to come by next week and pick up the stuff once he takes everything else apart and inspects it. Let the $$$$ roll :'(

Explains all the misfires on cold start (bad ring gaps probably mixed fuel and oil) and knocking until the engine was warm. I think it also explains why oil was seeping from my cap and hoses, pressure was leaking from the block to the head or vise-versa.

[schaffer]

So does this mean built motor and moar power?

[CleanNeon98]

It's a bit pricey to do everything together, but I just started a new job so if my income is going to be consistently good, it might get done at once. I plan on running Megasquirt after the rebuild so I'll have a ton of options for bigger turbo and tuning but I can always do it at a later time as well.

edit: this seems like a good starting point http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=655

The only complication here is that the car is currently on 440cc injectors and a tune for them. With bigger turbo I'd need bigger injectors before tune, so ideally I'd trailer the car to Lehigh Valley to Oracle Tuning. Anyone got a trailer or something I can transport the car on?

[c7scayman]

Get AAA and use them to tow the car there. Depending on what package you get, you can get 100 miles of free towing per break down + $4/mile for every mile after 100 miles. You would also get discounts on hotels so the price is not that bad.

[CleanNeon98]

Can anyone recomend a machine shop to do the above said work?

[DPancoast]

Automotive and industrial machining down my way does great work. Haven't ever had issues and they are affordable with a good turn around time

[Twisted tuning]

My fabricator that rents space from me has wired 4 different cars with megasquirt and i have tuned three with one being a 91 turbo miata. we could definately help you out. we even have a trailer....

[CleanNeon98]

Here's a basic list of things he told me so far he would replace if I'm already at the point of having the motor apart. I'm not sure which are good companies for this stuff and which aren't so I need some help.

Rods (Eagle H-Beam Forged
Bearings (rod and main) (ACL Race)
Pistons (Supertech) (what ratio though?)
Headgasket (not sure on what versions available)
Oil pump (not sure if upgraded ones available or needed)
Oil Squirters (he said they are in the bottom of the block and recomended doing a new set, where do I find them?)
Headstuds (ARP)
Main Studs (lower block also by ARP)
Injectors (have 440CC but won't be enough)
Clutch (stock, need recomendations)

There are some things I am not sure if I should touch. One of them is the head, I don't know if it really needs any upgrading. I was considering going with the intake cam for the exhaust, but not sure where I can find em and how much one would cost. Also, the clutch is a question, the one in there is a stocker with 75k, looks OK but not enough for what I want to do. Valve kits aren't too expensive, but I don't know if there's a benefit.

My goal? 250+whp, somewhere closer to 270/280. I'm also not sure what turbo to run that will get me there. I like some of the starter kits BEGi offers that give you a manifold, turbo, and downpipe, but dont know whether to go log or tubular, and what turbo that will work best with the build above. I was considering a Disco Potato GT28. My goal is a RELIABLE, streetable, and FAST MSM. Emissions don't matter, it's a secondary car and gets exempt.

[OutToWinPAHC]

I dont know the pro's and cons of those bearings, I have used clevite in the past, mainly street street recommendations. Look into the recommended application on those and keep in mine most true drag cars tear down frequently. As for oil squirted, you just need to clean them, your machinist can do this. And you MUST align bore the crank journals with new main studs.

Other than this the list is good, but I would suggest BMS racing engines for machine and build.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by OutToWinPAHC

I dont know the pro's and cons of those bearings, I have used clevite in the past, mainly street street recommendations. Look into the recommended application on those and keep in mine most true drag cars tear down frequently. As for oil squirted, you just need to clean them, your machinist can do this. And you MUST align bore the crank journals with new main studs.

Other than this the list is good, but I would suggest BMS racing engines for machine and build.

I'm not going for drag, I think the race ones are just constructed stronger or something, not like drag race spec. I don't plan on doing frequent rebuilds, but then agian, under 5,000 miles driven a year, and I won't be romping on it all the time.

Can you explain part 2? I've got Miata forums to give me more specific help but every bit helps right now haha

[zmainiac]

my buddy is selling a set of disco potatos off of a jim wolf 300zxtt upgrade kit for 600. I was thinking of buy one for my lemons car build. was going to buy them for my z but i want to make 1000 to 1200 hp next year. My buddy used them one at a time on his 2.3 turbo coupe motor and i think he made 350 whp. Said that they spooled super quick. you can google the equation for the fuel requirements but the 440 cc injectors should be more than enough to support 300 + hp as long as you are not trying to run E85. I believe guys make 500+ on z31's. these turbos are ballbearing as well. Let me know if you are interested.

[OutToWinPAHC]

fuel pressure at 3 bar would require 644CC to make 300 bhp at a .80 duty cycle and .65 brake specific fuel consumption. 440's aren't enough for 300 wheel unless you ran fuel pressure at 78psig

[97TurboDSM]

I'm like where this is headed. Don't **** it up. :chunkylove:

[Twisted tuning]

a good 3 angle valve job new valve stem seals and decking the head to make sure it is square is a good idea. don't need to go crazy on porting. the turbo will push the air through no matter what. cams help but are not life or death. your not looking to make the highest hp miata ever.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by 97TurboDSM

I'm like where this is headed. Don't **** it up. :chunkylove:

Holy **** you're back! hahaha

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by Twisted tuning

a good 3 angle valve job new valve stem seals and decking the head to make sure it is square is a good idea. don't need to go crazy on porting. the turbo will push the air through no matter what. cams help but are not life or death. your not looking to make the highest hp miata ever.

This is true. The head and block are going to be reconditioned for sure. I'm still a few weeks away so I got time to think.