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Old 11-04-2009, 11:50 AM   #2461
disturbedfan121
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should hace had EK swap pumps with you really quick that day. it takes about 10min to swap em. its right on the rear shelf
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:06 PM   #2462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disturbedfan121 View Post
should hace had EK swap pumps with you really quick that day. it takes about 10min to swap em. its right on the rear shelf
LOL he would have never gone for that, besides you need a special key to remove the fuel line fittings on this car which I didn't have. Evan and I don't talk anymore cause he decided to be a butthurt idiot.
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:58 PM   #2463
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So were you ever able to pressurize the intake system more than 7psi? A good test should be able to hold at least 15 pounds without bleeding down to quickly after shutting off the air supply.

If not hopefully the dyno can help you. Still without knowing fuel pressure your kind of in the dark. There are two factors when dealing with a pump. Its Fuel pressure but also delivery rate(the quantity of fuel being delivered). A good rule of thumb you could try this test if you felt like it.

1. Remove the fuel line at the rail.
2. Place the fuel line into a measuring device something you could measure into ml with decent presicion.
3. Jump the fuel pump powering it on with jumper leads, for 15 seconds exactly.
4. The amount of fuel you should measure should be no less than around 350ml.

If its more than than 350ml you know at least the delivery of your pump is okay. But pressure still needs to be checked, witch would would require a gauge.

If they have a some type of logger than show you fuel trims, TPS, O2 voltages, Mass air flow readings, Knock sensor voltages. If possible try and datalog it all on the dyno with WB. Than compare to known good readings to see whats happening.
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1995 Tsi AWD
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Track numbers coming soon.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:10 PM   #2464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CleanNeon98 View Post
LOL he would have never gone for that, besides you need a special key to remove the fuel line fittings on this car which I didn't have. Evan and I don't talk anymore cause he decided to be a butthurt idiot.
Is it one of those one time use clamps? Cut them off and get a fuel injector hose clamp on there instead.
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:50 PM   #2465
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Finally popped a CEL last night! Getting it scanned before work.

Also noticed the car runs semi-normally sometimes...I had an issue where my alternator belt was slipping before (right before it broke) and I think this could be related because when they put the new belt on they said it was a bit big so I may have to get a new belt...dunno if a slipping alternator belt can cause the issues I described though. I'm going to check this stuff tomorrow and see if I can make sense of things.

Also picking up a go-pro wide from justinlansdale today so I'll make a little video on my way home.
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:20 PM   #2466
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well if theres not enuff power going to the coiles then yes it could runn ****ty
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:57 PM   #2467
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Code was p0420 (cat issue)...there are known issues with the cat in this model downpipe...could a wrecked cat be the culprit behind my issues? If so I'm getting it cut out.
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:07 PM   #2468
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Is the inside of the cat coming apart? Do you hear any rattle noise's coming from the exhaust? If your cat broke apart and clogged up your exhaust you will be getting excessive backpressure which will def cause some problems
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:10 PM   #2469
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Take the cat off and take it for a spin to see if you still are experiencing any problems.
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:11 AM   #2470
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I agree with ditching the cat, assuming you have a way to get rid of the constant code it will throw. Its not worth it to have a constant cel. you wont pass inspection, it will get annoying, and girls will constantly ask if your car is going to break down.
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:19 AM   #2471
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just get a good metal core cat (not chinese). They'll take temps better, flow more, and still do a good enough job so your car won't thrown a CEL and it won't stink. My magnaflow was ~90 bucks and works great.
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:31 PM   #2472
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We have a winner...I wanna kick this car LOL

AF is dipping below 10 so it's not a fuel starvation issue, going back next week for more testing.
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:36 PM   #2473
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lol super fast,

you are flooding the engine with AFR's that low hence the lack of power, something is wrong and you need to fix it asap
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'90 Miata - 14psi 250whp 227tq ---Dead and parted
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'03 MSP-7psi - SOLD.......'93 Sc300 5spd - SOLD
'98 BMW Z3 - SOLD.......'92 miata turbo -Traded
'10 Evo X- Traded in for .....'14 Jetta TDI 6spd man.......
'99 miata NB shell Project....'96 Impreza w/v.1 STi swap
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:38 PM   #2474
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Plugs don't smell though, it's odd
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:39 PM   #2475
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thats entirely to rich. needs to be leaned out. I'm not running nearly that rich at 14psi at WOT in any gear......
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'90 Miata - 14psi 250whp 227tq ---Dead and parted
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

'03 MSP-7psi - SOLD.......'93 Sc300 5spd - SOLD
'98 BMW Z3 - SOLD.......'92 miata turbo -Traded
'10 Evo X- Traded in for .....'14 Jetta TDI 6spd man.......
'99 miata NB shell Project....'96 Impreza w/v.1 STi swap
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:48 PM   #2476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disturbedfan121 View Post
thats entirely to rich. needs to be leaned out. I'm not running nearly that rich at 14psi at WOT in any gear......
I don't have a tuning apparatus and besides I don't care, I just want the car fixed.
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:49 PM   #2477
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i thought it was modded?
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:50 PM   #2478
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i thought it was modded?
Car is in broke-dick status right now LOL
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:03 PM   #2479
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Car is in broke-dick status right now LOL
sucks. i had some **** happen like this on my old mx6.... i was all kinds of modded and barely made north of 150.
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:07 PM   #2480
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That is the ugliest dyno graph I have ever seen...lol! It really looks like your ecu is pulling timing which would attribute to the wavy graph.
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