"Honey Badger" Miata: Turbo Track Build (new brakes installed)

[97TurboDSM]

check or replace your coil packs and do a boost leak test to make sure. you'd be surprised how the tiniest little leak can cause big headaches

[russiankid]

If I remember correctly his car has two coil packs.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by disturbedfan121

btw EK is anything but a turbo miata guru lol

he just figured out how to take an inejctor out about a week ago.... lol i give him credit tho he does try things on his own and slowly is learning more and more

I'll be meeting with Paul and Artie on Sunday if it's not resolved by then.

Originally Posted by TalonTsi97

Sounds like the coil pack may be your problem but don't be so sure that you sealed everything "uber tight" and have no leaks.
It don't look like you took anything apart that could give you major leak issue but i haven't ever looked at your bay hard enough to remember. Just be careful and recheck everything thoroughly.

We will see.

Originally Posted by motorvated

ya check your coil packs. See if one is cracked or something, that happens. Though when the coil pack went bad on my VW, it was undriveable.

Yea that's what my friend said who had a VW. He said if it was a coil pack it would be bad all the time.

He also said he had a similar issue with his GTI, he replaced the fuel filter and then the fuel pump and it was fine. Since I was sliding around with so little fuel, it's possible that something just got kicked up, and I have a habit of running my car to E

Good news is if it shouldn't be expensive to replace any of the possible items. We are going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge or OBD2 scanner that gives live-view and try to see if fuel pressure is dropping.

[97TurboDSM]

actually. i had that problem when i had a bad fuel pump. in boost i'd go way lean which is prolly what you're doing. replaced the pump and was good to go.

[motorvated]

Ya i read you're whole post on the other forum..I dont think its coilpacks. When my coilpacks went bad, The car was almost useless. CEL came on (which you said you havent gotten) it had no power, and the whole car kind of shook. Ide check your fuel filter, if you're anywhere near 50K or more...its a good bet your fuel filter could be on the way out the door. It could be your MAF if you touched it when you did all your intake work, or if you got it dirty when you did the painting/intake stuff. Hope that helps somewhat haha. Ide start with the fuel filter.

[phillycivicsi]

guys his check engine light blinks 8 times before it turns of when the ignition is in the 2nd turn

i remember in my civic it blinked 5 times and turned off and i googled it and it was maps

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by phillycivicsi

guys his check engine light blinks 8 times before it turns of when the ignition is in the 2nd turn

i remember in my civic it blinked 5 times and turned off and i googled it and it was maps

Yea you have to wait for it for like a minute though...we checked the ECU at sunset today, there are no stored codes.

[CleanNeon98]

I'll update this when there's a definate diagnosis or solution, tired of it for now. I don't really want to drive my car because its slower than dirt ATM, and I'm forced to drive my mom's RAV4 which isn't much better (though ATM it would probbably hang right with the MSM). Meantime, Paul has one theory, my friends have another, everyone seems to think it's something different (and all of their ideas are right in theory)

I haven't talked to Paul personally, but from what i was told by 2 friends,both told me that if a coil pack is truly bad, it will

A. throw a misfire code

B. drive like complete ****

Or a combo. This would be especially true on our cars because each pack fires 2 cylinders so the problem in theory would be worse. Also if it was missing it would drive rough because of a lack of balance in the motor, my engine feels smooth, just feels like its breathing through a straw.

I'll still have Artie and Paul look at and drive the car Sunday but I'll have the fuel filter tomorrow and need-be Matt O has a Walbro 190lph that he will sell me for 75 shipped that came out of his DSM after 3k miles (now totalled). I didn't find a fuel pump for my car on rosenthal site, and autopartswarehouse wants 166 for a denso.

Not saying Paul is right or wrong, same with my friends, both theories make sense, but I think I need to monitor fuel pressure before i can take it off the list because the pump certainly sounds feasable, sliding around with low fuel could have very well starved it, or my coil packs could have taken a ****, just seems less likely that it would happen right during that situation vs. a fuel related issue.

[arkadyzv]

Its fuel you tard, a bad coil pack would cause a lot more drive ability issues then you have now. Change that fuel filter and see, if anything go get my fuel pressure gauge and hook it up. As far as the Walbro , they usually come with specific mounting equipment , thus the dsm walbro may not be plug and play. Check and see if the rx7 pump's work in the queerpedo. If they do I have either an NA or a TurboII pump that you can use, just to swap it out and see if the issue is still present. As far as I remember they might even use the same pump, if they do , you can pick up a Walbro on rx7club for fairly cheap.

[Elliott18t]

I had a coil pack go on me. Holy hell does it drive like **** when that happens, sounded like a subie and couldnt move for ****. This was all the time too. since you said your engine is running smooth, I highly doubt coil packs are the issue.

[motorvated]

Ya i ruled out coilpacks...because you'de start your car and KNOW not to drive it. It would shake, and just be completely awful. I wouldnt even take my car up to speed, because I thought it was going to explode haha. But either way, do some searching and have a pro look at it. Let us know what it was...but i guessing something with the fuel or maf going bad from when you did your intake work.

[disturbedfan121]

also if it would be the coils at least 1 cylinder wouldn't be firing and your car would sound like a subaru

[Elliott18t]

oh and for the record, it happened while i was driving and almost home, thats why i know it wouldnt move for **** lol. Just took it super easy on the way home.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Could also be an injector issue. Maybe ones leaking some

[russiankid]

Don't buy a fuel pump until you are sure its the fuel pump. Change the filter first, check the gap of the plugs, clean the MAF with MAF cleaner, and then go from there. If you're fuel pump is operating correctly (which is should with the amount of miles you have), then buying a new one is throwing money out the window.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Also check your furl pressure running at a range of RPMs. My be an issue and that's whats causing the fuel cut?

[gtsiawd96]

There a multiple options here. The only way is to eliminate one at a time, obviously starting easiest first.

Step one you said you overheated a couple weeks ago and now all of sudden problems. Did you ever do that compression test? Low compression can cause all of these problems you are describing. If the compression is good you can pass go.

Step two boost leak test are you most certain that there are zero intake leaks in the system. You should not even be looking at anything else until you know this especially on a turbo vehicle, the smallest leak can reak havoc. Its so simple to do also. Pressure the intake system, blocking your PCV and you boost controller if its a manual bleed, get your engine to about 20 degrees after top dead center(known to be the best place for all the valves to be closed and hold pressure the best) and listen for leaks. Get out the soapy water to help if you can't locate by ear. Also how is the PCV system set-up in these vehicles?

Step Three : Obviously fuel pressure. This one is a little more tricky and isn't monitored by the ECU, so the ECU just thinks well there should be fuel in the system. So it can't set a light for this problem. So you need manual gauges. Is your pump putting out the correct volume number one? And number two is your fuel pressure regulator doing its job in controlling the pressure in the fuel rail if your system is return style set-up. I'm not a Mazda guru, so it could also be returnless in witch case let me know.

Step four: The almighty Spark plugs. Most new vehicle are pretty good at setting lights for dead missfires. A dead missfire its pretty simple to figure out whats wrong. You say you car is missing at idle? Is it a dead miss? Have you tried to pull plug wires while its idling to see witch cylinders make it run ****tier and if it does run ****tier you know that cylinder is not causing the problem. You will know your problem cylinder when you pull a plug wire and it runs the same. Than you can narrow it down to that specific cylinder, by either swapping injectors, swapping plugs, swapping wires, or a coil.

That is the direction I would move in. Do all of those things in that order.

[CleanNeon98]

We do have to do a compression test. The car however isn't losing oil or coolant, and they are not mixing, but it is possible that it may have broken between the cylinders, though unlikely.

The new symptoms started a few days after the previous problem, nearly a week actually, I think if the HG was bad, it would show it's true colors sooner.

A compression test will be done, but hopefully it won't come down to replacing a headgasket.

[Got Insulin?]

Alex, trust us DSM guys, we know.





Because our stuff is always broken

[gtsiawd96]

Originally Posted by Got Insulin?

Alex, trust us DSM guys, we know.





Because our stuff is always broken

Fo shooo...

I understand your not losing coolant or oil, but a bad ring, blow-by, scored cylinder wall, anything is possible even valve trouble. I have seen them all lead you down the path you are traveling. Not trying to scare you just making sure you don't over look the truly important and simple. Your engine is a giant air pump, that's all it does it sucks and blows. If it can't do that properly than every thing else is affected.