"Honey Badger" Miata: Turbo Track Build (new brakes installed)

[Bates]

Originally Posted by CleanNeon98

Also got a boundary engineering billet oil pump. Might add a harmonic balancer later when I do the big turbo setup. Expecting this thing to be back sometime February.

Anyone installed Megasquirt before? Might need a hand when the time comes.

Also a pretty funny thing I found out. It turns out the vin on the oil pan doesnt match the car so the engine has already been swapped once before, so sometime before 35k miles. Its highly unlikely that someone just changed the pan, there'd be little reason for it

If the car was low enough and the oil pan got smashed, then it would need to be replaced. I have a friend who smashed an oil pan on his Eclipse and his 240, it's not that uncommon, happens more then you think especially with really low cars.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by Bates

If the car was low enough and the oil pan got smashed, then it would need to be replaced. I have a friend who smashed an oil pan on his Eclipse and his 240, it's not that uncommon, happens more then you think especially with really low cars.

I thought of that too, but the car was bone stock, stock height, etc.

[CleanNeon98]

This setup also has potential..anyone care to educate further on benefits of EWG?

[one8turbo]

Originally Posted by CleanNeon98

This setup also has potential..anyone care to educate further on benefits of EWG?

Better boost control, less risk of overboosting/boost creep, faster spool, etc.

[CleanNeon98]

Anyone care to further educate me on the Borg Warner EFR6258? I mean if you've owned, own, or been passanger with one.

[DPancoast]

On the oil pan subject, I made the mistake of forgetting to distribute pressure on the pan when jacking my motor up on my mr2 back in the day and it pushed the pan in pretty good and I had to replace it.

Could have been something as simple as that

[CleanNeon98]

Heres the pan


I'm also wondering what to do for oil and coolant lines for this new turbo. Should I convert everything hooked to it to AN fittings? The oil drain on the EFR is a -10AN standard so I'm getting my pan prepped for that line. I'll be running ~20psi

As far as intercoolers go, who can compare the likes of Precision, Mishimoto, and maybe even Godspeed?

[OutToWinPAHC]

I like the Borg worner billet wheels as well as the GTX series.

[CleanNeon98]

A few snaps from the machine shop, last time I'll be seeing this stuff

[DPancoast]

You can't go wrong with -an stuff. for coolant you can try and see if there is a loop somewhere you can T into or put the turbo in line with. usually isn't too bad to figure out.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by DPancoast

You can't go wrong with -an stuff. for coolant you can try and see if there is a loop somewhere you can T into or put the turbo in line with. usually isn't too bad to figure out.

Nice thing about Mazdaspeed is all the ports are already there. Coolant is easy. Just hope I don't have to reclock the turbo

[schaffer]

smallest turbo that makes the power you want.



build looks like it's coming along nice. I'll have a turbo miata some day.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by schaffer

smallest turbo that makes the power you want.



build looks like it's coming along nice. I'll have a turbo miata some day.

Yes and no, depending on application. Say you have a track car and you're always in load. Well it makes no sense to run a GT2560 to the edge of what its capable which on my engine seems to be 270-280whp. However, running it at peak boost all the time won't yield a long life for the turbo.

Running say a GT2860 would help because its max output is around 350 so you won't be running it out of breath. The confusion comes in that I talked to the company that makes the kit with a GT2860 and GT3071 and they said since the low-end spool is basically the same, but the 3071 can handle more power, you get better thermal efficiency out of it, and reduce engine temps, they usually recomend going from a to c and skip b.

The nutty part about the EFR turbos is their spool. Spool of a gt2554, power potential of a 3071. It's exactly what I need, and should spool 700-1000rpm qicker than the GT2860

[CleanNeon98]

A few EFR action vids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2atV...5&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W91Co9kexvw

[SHOdude]

Originally Posted by CleanNeon98

Yes and no, depending on application. Say you have a track car and you're always in load. Well it makes no sense to run a GT2560 to the edge of what its capable which on my engine seems to be 270-280whp. However, running it at peak boost all the time won't yield a long life for the turbo.

Running say a GT2860 would help because its max output is around 350 so you won't be running it out of breath. The confusion comes in that I talked to the company that makes the kit with a GT2860 and GT3071 and they said since the low-end spool is basically the same, but the 3071 can handle more power, you get better thermal efficiency out of it, and reduce engine temps, they usually recomend going from a to c and skip b.

The nutty part about the EFR turbos is their spool. Spool of a gt2554, power potential of a 3071. It's exactly what I need, and should spool 700-1000rpm qicker than the GT2860

Are you 6spd? Cause from the little research I've done the 5spd trans's start to blow apart at like 250-275

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by SHOdude

Are you 6spd? Cause from the little research I've done the 5spd trans's start to blow apart at like 250-275

6 speed. I quote a fellow MSMer with many years of build and race experience when he says "The MSM drivetrain from the bellhousing back is the strongest of any miata before it". I think the only thing trans-wise I'm going to do is some new fluid, and the clutch and flywheel that I got.

Also I think the power capability is like 300 for the 5-speed and 400 for the 6-speed. You'll break other things before the trans, and they break more from torque and shifting than horsepower.

Now that I do this, I realize what little the Mazdaspeed engine really has vs a standard Miata. Extra coolant and water ports, slightly lowered compression, and thats it. Mazda didn't change the internals, not the fuel system, not even the ECU from the naturally aspirated car to work with the turbo, which explains the questionable performance stock. Instead of Open/Closed loop being controlled by boost, it feeds off the TPS so you don't get full power when you hit boost, rather a certain RPM, makes for hesitation and a lean spot (this isn't what blew the motor)

Rumor has it the coolant passanges on the MSM stuff are bigger and better, but who knows.

[CleanNeon98]

Shop started engine assembly. I think what I'll do is as soon as I get the funds needed, I'll start piecing the kit together. ExtremePSI has the Precision 600HP intercooler which I might just get now, as well as a pipe kit, and start piecing it together. Then I'll get the turbo and work on the oil and coolant lines, at least fitting the AN stuff together and getting my conversion fittings (also ExtremePSI). Someone also suggested taking the stock PCV (since Im going with a better one) and sticking it in the line that goes from the catchcan to the oil pan. This way, oil can drain down, but never come back up into the catchcan and intake. Thoughts?

I managed to save a step because my oil pan is already tapped for a stock return line. All I need is this flange and I can have a -8an welded to it and that's my oil return. http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=211

I think once I have the turbo, piecing it together will be easier. Debating whether to switch everything to v-band on the exhaust as well.

[CleanNeon98]

[OutToWinPAHC]

yea BMS

[DPancoast]

The catch can suggestion is a good idea if you ask me.

If your piping kit is not direct fit, let me know. My buddy Matt could help with welding up some piping if needed.