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Old 03-18-2006, 09:33 PM   #1
Tru2Blu
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Blown Head Gasket

This is what happened, im comming down route 1, having fun with a SE-R. So i put the pedal to the metal for about half mile, when i got off the gas and looked behind me and theres alot of smoke and some in the car. what could this be?
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:47 PM   #2
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What color was the smoke? Any oil in the coolant? What motor is this (SR20 or QR25)?
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"The Corvette took nearly 25 years to sell 500,000 units; the Z does it in fewer than 10."
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:52 PM   #3
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The Smoke was white, and the motor is KA24.
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:27 PM   #4
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Compression test the motor.
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Old 03-19-2006, 12:32 AM   #5
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blown HG, get a new motors it's going to be cheeper then replacing the HG by it self
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Old 03-19-2006, 12:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auk113
blown HG, get a new motors it's going to be cheeper then replacing the HG by it self
Unless he does the work himself.

A compression test should be in order.
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"The Corvette took nearly 25 years to sell 500,000 units; the Z does it in fewer than 10."
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:33 AM   #7
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What about rebuilding and boosting? cheaper than SR swap?
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:02 AM   #8
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First compression test the motor!
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:53 AM   #9
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Sometimes a compression test won't show anything. Best way to check for a blown headgasket is to rule out any other external/internal coolant leaks. Look for oil in the coolant and the coolant system getting pressurized enough to push coolant out the reservoir when driven hard.
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:57 PM   #10
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we just did a compression test.

145 - 150 - 150 - 150

motor has 180k on it.. could it just be oil?
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:23 PM   #11
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Like will said you need to ck for oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. Also how did the plugs look when you pulled them?

Tru2blu an sr swap is all ways nice, but it'll most likely be about the same in price to do either
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:45 PM   #12
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i feel you on the sr swap. the plugs were white? dont know what that mean, and there is alot of oil on the engine itself.
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Old 03-20-2006, 01:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tru2Blu
i feel you on the sr swap. the plugs were white? dont know what that mean, and there is alot of oil on the engine itself.

white = running lean
oil = check seals

doing a HG is harder to do it if the engine is in the car, i've done several 240 and it's alot ez-er to take the engine out and put one in.

normal compretion for a KA is around 180-190, considering you have 150 across the board it could be that your rings are worn, i wouldn't put a turbo on that engine it won't last 3 month, if you want to go KAT you gonna have to rebuild it
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:27 AM   #14
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^ understood. whick is better KA-T or SR20? thanks for all the help.
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:23 AM   #15
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at the end both will cost you the same? i would say if your engine was top shape i would go KA-T, but in your case SR might be ez-er. in order to go KA-t you need to replace the rings/HG/bore-hone the block/new pistons

at the end it's your personal prefirence.
ka = cheeper initial startup (cheep ka-t kits, but won't last long on high boost, parts are ez to find)
sr = cheeper in the long run (suports more hp on stock block, parts cost more)
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:25 PM   #16
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If your interested in a block, I have a 92 KA, along with the cylinder head. Used, over 100k, but it might be better than what you've got now. I also have a 91-93 redtop SR20DET complete engine set in stock. If you interested in anything, shoot me a PM.
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