rust fix opinions - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

natethegreatt · 11-18-2009, 09:53 PM

i have rust, among other other places, on my pinch welding.
what would an estimated price for fixing it be?
I just need a ballpark range to determine whether i'm going to keep this or not.

LIPCOLL320 · 11-19-2009, 09:17 AM

If it is bad, sell it. You can throw alot of money at rust repairs and still have it come back down the road if it is not fixed correctly. There is not quality "quick fix". The best way to fix rust is to totally replace whatever peice is rusted and depending where the rust is it could cost thousands.

natethegreatt · 11-19-2009, 03:05 PM

damn
i was afraid of that thanks man

evomike · 11-19-2009, 04:07 PM

Rust really never goes away unless you cut it all out and replace all the metal, it is called cancer for a reason and can get very expensive to fix.

natethegreatt · 11-20-2009, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evomike

Rust really never goes away unless you cut it all out and replace all the metal, it is called cancer for a reason and can get very expensive to fix.

i know that
i just wanted to get an estimate on how much it might be to get my pinch welding fixed (replaced)

jo6wo · 11-22-2009, 07:47 PM

need pics to give you a idea of how much

Mr.Crx · 12-02-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by natethegreatt

i have rust, among other other places, on my pinch welding.
what would an estimated price for fixing it be?
I just need a ballpark range to determine whether i'm going to keep this or not.

Shop it around to a few local shops...and get some pics up so we can get a better idea of how bad it is.

SniperGrl · 12-03-2009, 01:03 PM

how bad is it? If they are holes you may be able to grind away what you can and isolate it with POR-15 or something of that sort. If they are huge holes then you may have to do as already suggested and cut away the bad (i suggest cutting at least 1/2" or more further then where the visible rust ends) and getting it patch welded.

enigma · 12-05-2009, 12:41 AM

If you want to get rid of rust you need to chemically treat it with a phosphoric acid solution, before you paint over it.
You need to remove all loose/bubbles with a wire wheel and take it down to where the metal is rusty, but not bubbled or flakey. Treat it with the solution, it make take repeated attempts, but the main goal is to turn the "red" rust "black", which is inactive rust, and is actually a corrosion protectant.
After the rust has chaned color, apply a GOOD rust preventative primer, rustolium rusty metal primer is a nice product, as is eastwoods rust encapsulator and "zero-rust" products. Stay away from por-15, it is more of a very tough sealer, and the rust continues to grow underneath it. I've seen pics where it can be peeled off in sheets(very tough sheets mind you).
Once you get the metal treated and coated, treat it like normal body work.
I did this process to my duster on several heavily scaled body panel areas, the car sat outside for a year before i put it in a garage, and there is no evidence of the rust re-bubbling through, 5 years later.

SniperGrl · 12-05-2009, 07:58 PM

POR-15 only peels in sheets if it's not prepped properly. You need to clean all the loose rust you can and use some sort of "Metal Ready" to prep the metal and promote adhesion. I have used POR-15 with great results that have lasted many years (still on as well). You need to paint over it though or use some sort of UV protectant. Prep is KEY

mikeycivic · 12-24-2009, 09:50 PM

I can post pics of poor quality work from a local shop. I ended up paying to get cancer apparently. Car had none until they touched it

devildog214 · 12-29-2009, 11:51 PM

i worked on my car in a bodyshop, the guys hated the rust, a cheap way is to use one of those spray rust converters, and paint over it to keep it from getting worse, but really it needs to be properly cut out, and patched with all metal and use as little bondo as needed.

JnJAssociates · 12-30-2009, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SniperGrl

POR-15 only peels in sheets if it's not prepped properly. You need to clean all the loose rust you can and use some sort of "Metal Ready" to prep the metal and promote adhesion. I have used POR-15 with great results that have lasted many years (still on as well). You need to paint over it though or use some sort of UV protectant. Prep is KEY

Very true! We have used Por15 for over 15 years on various projects... All without issue. All due to good prep.

Bryan

11-18-2009, 09:53 PM	#1
natethegreatt Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: hatfield Member #8472 My Ride: TR MK4 Jetta Wolfs iTrader: (0)	rust fix opinions i have rust, among other other places, on my pinch welding. what would an estimated price for fixing it be? I just need a ballpark range to determine whether i'm going to keep this or not.

12-05-2009, 12:41 AM	#9
enigma Tri-State Addict Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Glenolden ,PA Member #2659 My Ride: Hoopties galore iTrader: (0)	If you want to get rid of rust you need to chemically treat it with a phosphoric acid solution, before you paint over it. You need to remove all loose/bubbles with a wire wheel and take it down to where the metal is rusty, but not bubbled or flakey. Treat it with the solution, it make take repeated attempts, but the main goal is to turn the "red" rust "black", which is inactive rust, and is actually a corrosion protectant. After the rust has chaned color, apply a GOOD rust preventative primer, rustolium rusty metal primer is a nice product, as is eastwoods rust encapsulator and "zero-rust" products. Stay away from por-15, it is more of a very tough sealer, and the rust continues to grow underneath it. I've seen pics where it can be peeled off in sheets(very tough sheets mind you). Once you get the metal treated and coated, treat it like normal body work. I did this process to my duster on several heavily scaled body panel areas, the car sat outside for a year before i put it in a garage, and there is no evidence of the rust re-bubbling through, 5 years later. __________________ 2001 Dakota Quad Cab, 1996 Ford F250, 1993 Honda Civic, 1991 Eagle Talon, 1970 Plymouth Duster.

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11-19-2009, 09:17 AM	#2
LIPCOLL320 Former Vendor Join Date: Mar 2009 Member #11237 My Ride: 06' F-250 Lariet 6.0 PSD, 03' Cobra Sold iTrader: (0)	If it is bad, sell it. You can throw alot of money at rust repairs and still have it come back down the road if it is not fixed correctly. There is not quality "quick fix". The best way to fix rust is to totally replace whatever peice is rusted and depending where the rust is it could cost thousands.

11-19-2009, 03:05 PM	#3
natethegreatt Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: hatfield Member #8472 My Ride: TR MK4 Jetta Wolfs iTrader: (0)	damn i was afraid of that thanks man

11-19-2009, 04:07 PM	#4
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	Rust really never goes away unless you cut it all out and replace all the metal, it is called cancer for a reason and can get very expensive to fix.

11-22-2009, 07:47 PM	#6
jo6wo Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jun 2009 Member #13886 My Ride: 00 civic si k20 iTrader: (0)	need pics to give you a idea of how much

12-03-2009, 01:03 PM	#8
SniperGrl Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: May 2009 Member #13662 iTrader: (0)	how bad is it? If they are holes you may be able to grind away what you can and isolate it with POR-15 or something of that sort. If they are huge holes then you may have to do as already suggested and cut away the bad (i suggest cutting at least 1/2" or more further then where the visible rust ends) and getting it patch welded.

12-05-2009, 07:58 PM	#10
SniperGrl Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: May 2009 Member #13662 iTrader: (0)	POR-15 only peels in sheets if it's not prepped properly. You need to clean all the loose rust you can and use some sort of "Metal Ready" to prep the metal and promote adhesion. I have used POR-15 with great results that have lasted many years (still on as well). You need to paint over it though or use some sort of UV protectant. Prep is KEY

12-24-2009, 09:50 PM	#11
mikeycivic Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jan 2009 Member #10688 iTrader: (0)	I can post pics of poor quality work from a local shop. I ended up paying to get cancer apparently. Car had none until they touched it

12-29-2009, 11:51 PM	#12
devildog214 Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Dec 2009 Member #15356 My Ride: 1994 Pontiac Trans Am iTrader: (0)	i worked on my car in a bodyshop, the guys hated the rust, a cheap way is to use one of those spray rust converters, and paint over it to keep it from getting worse, but really it needs to be properly cut out, and patched with all metal and use as little bondo as needed.