need soem EASY bodywork done quick ca$h - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

s3xrapt0r · 08-20-2009, 02:33 AM

alright i took my spoiler off.. the bolts were stripped on the spoiler already all of the bolts came off fine except one so i had to rip it through the panel not that big of a deal. it just needs ot be grinded down with a dremel.. then all you have to do is put fiberglass or mesh on the underside of the holes and fil the top with bondo and touch it up with a little paint. im to lazy to do it my self so if anyones willing to make a few bucks by helping me out name your price and i will see what i can do

polarexpress17 · 08-20-2009, 04:41 PM

I would do it for you, its pretty easy just a really far drive :-\

Showoff03LS · 08-21-2009, 10:33 AM

instead of filling them just find any wingless hatch from a base probe

DPancoast · 08-21-2009, 06:24 PM

if you don't do it correctly the holes will show through later and look like crap

evomike · 08-21-2009, 06:51 PM

Yeah it has to be welded and redrilled, it's not really an easy job.

SvicksTc · 08-21-2009, 06:53 PM

ya i alwasy assumed you cant just patch this or it will show and look like crap it needs to be welded

s3xrapt0r · 08-22-2009, 12:53 AM

i would go look for one from a base probe but its hard to find them in the yards :\ let alone find a black one.... **** even if it dosent come out perfect at least it will look better then electrical tape i have covering the holes now xD

polarexpress17 · 08-22-2009, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evomike

Yeah it has to be welded and redrilled, it's not really an easy job.

well, that is an easy job to me. i did it to my trunk and my doors

tack a piece of metal underneath the hole, slowly fill in the hole with weld. then lightly grind it down as to not make the metal hot enough to warp, a very light coat of body filler and viola.

evomike · 08-22-2009, 02:25 AM

Yea I don't care what you've shaved it's not a quick easy job. I bet I can spot all your work if you think it's quick and easy. And the way you described is hood, I'm a perfectionist and if you quickly and easily shave holes you'll always see it.

Showoff03LS · 08-22-2009, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s3xrapt0r

i would go look for one from a base probe but its hard to find them in the yards :\ let alone find a black one.... **** even if it dosent come out perfect at least it will look better then electrical tape i have covering the holes now xD

nothing wrong with useing electrical tape, i did it with my Cavi when i took off my wing

boost03 · 08-22-2009, 06:35 PM

You guy are both rite....But for someone that know what they are doing it easy.BUT EVOMIKE rite it takes time.It not a 2 hr fixes.And ppl don't weld the holes anymore.They use the premabond it the compound for puttin door skins on.

evomike · 08-22-2009, 07:17 PM

I weld them and metal finish them with various metal files, I do it the right way

boost03 · 08-22-2009, 07:55 PM

We lead fill holes put ppl don't want to pay the cost.We don't weld because pin holes can trip moister.But most shop don't care anymore because most ppl are cheap and want **** done for penny on a dollar.So they use the sealer.If you are in the body work you know how ppl think it easy and you can paint a car rite for 500$ and have it done in a day .Only a example

polarexpress17 · 08-22-2009, 09:46 PM

well whatever then, did it that way on my 1st probe and this probe, the guy who bought my 1st one to this day has had no issues and i see the car on a fairly-frequent basis. can't even tell there were ever door locks there.

no bubbling in the paint, no cracking no warping, no nothing. so i guess there is more than one way to do it right. Fortunately since i'm cheap cause of not being able to find a job it costed me alot less and looks the same after its finished. used a 220 grit flapper disc with hardly any pressure on the metal. it was almost perfect that when i sanded off the body filler (rage extreme before i get flamed

) there was only a few small spots that still had it on. then went over it again with a coat of polyester spot putty and again there was only really fine strips that were filled in from the flapper disc.

not sure why i'm even debating this as of course my way is "hood"

easy to me might be extremely difficult for you, and vice versa. and yes, i do consider it pretty easy...

evomike · 08-23-2009, 03:27 AM

Filler should never be used in a situation like this, filling or shaving anything body filler shouldn't be used. It's all about leading and metal finishing I'm sorry I'm on a whole different level. I take the smallest job as seriously as a full chop and channel. Body filler is for the unskilled.

polarexpress17 · 08-23-2009, 11:17 AM

sure

evomike · 08-23-2009, 02:09 PM

Learn how to lead and get back at me

s3xrapt0r · 08-24-2009, 01:04 AM

damn this sounds like quite a job then and ill need to at least find a welder. my friend did the rust on his wheel wells with screen and bondo its been holding for a good few months now PERFECT but id rather not chance it if its gonna look bad that way

the welding thing would make me feel alot better at least i can roll around knowing i didnt resort to a bondo fix lol

08-20-2009, 02:33 AM	#1
s3xrapt0r Tri-State Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Sewell NJ Member #13537 My Ride: 1988 Toyota MR2 N/A iTrader: (0)	need soem EASY bodywork done quick ca$h alright i took my spoiler off.. the bolts were stripped on the spoiler already all of the bolts came off fine except one so i had to rip it through the panel not that big of a deal. it just needs ot be grinded down with a dremel.. then all you have to do is put fiberglass or mesh on the underside of the holes and fil the top with bondo and touch it up with a little paint. im to lazy to do it my self so if anyones willing to make a few bucks by helping me out name your price and i will see what i can do __________________ 1988 Toyota MR2: Low and Slow 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander AWD: The Daily 1993 Honda Prelude JDM h23a bluetop: Used as a lawn gnome

08-20-2009, 04:41 PM	#2
polarexpress17 Tri-State Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Member #10803 My Ride: 1993 Probe GT, 2.7l KL with PTE T66 iTrader: (1)	I would do it for you, its pretty easy just a really far drive :-\ __________________ '93 PGT - Ross 10:1 pistons, B18 H beam rods, Quaife LSD, Custom I/M, Precision T-66, NOS wet nitrous 55 shot, meth injection, J&S Safeguard, Nissan 370cc injectors, AEM wideband, MS1 V2.2(for now,) Nitto NT555Rs, 3" exhaust, D2 coilovers, 18" Rays Engineering 57 optimise, No, my username is NOT from that stupid movie.

08-21-2009, 10:33 AM	#3
Showoff03LS Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Gilbertsville Member #7305 My Ride: 03 cavalier,68 fairlane 500 iTrader: (0)	instead of filling them just find any wingless hatch from a base probe __________________ 03 Cavalier coupe 68 Ford Fairlane 500 68 Firebird I Gotz More Watts Then You Got HorsePower RIP Bill Levengood- youll be missed by everyone

08-21-2009, 06:53 PM	#6
SvicksTc Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Spoolin a Snail Member #7395 My Ride: Nike 6.0 iTrader: (1)	ya i alwasy assumed you cant just patch this or it will show and look like crap it needs to be welded __________________ Why V-tec When there is To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. ? \|Nikon\| Twitter: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

08-22-2009, 12:53 AM	#7
s3xrapt0r Tri-State Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Sewell NJ Member #13537 My Ride: 1988 Toyota MR2 N/A iTrader: (0)	i would go look for one from a base probe but its hard to find them in the yards :\ let alone find a black one.... **** even if it dosent come out perfect at least it will look better then electrical tape i have covering the holes now xD __________________ 1988 Toyota MR2: Low and Slow 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander AWD: The Daily 1993 Honda Prelude JDM h23a bluetop: Used as a lawn gnome

08-21-2009, 06:51 PM	#5
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	Yeah it has to be welded and redrilled, it's not really an easy job.

08-22-2009, 02:25 AM	#9
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	Yea I don't care what you've shaved it's not a quick easy job. I bet I can spot all your work if you think it's quick and easy. And the way you described is hood, I'm a perfectionist and if you quickly and easily shave holes you'll always see it.

08-22-2009, 06:35 PM	#11
boost03 Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Aug 2009 Member #14461 My Ride: TWIN TURBO 03 COBRA iTrader: (0)	You guy are both rite....But for someone that know what they are doing it easy.BUT EVOMIKE rite it takes time.It not a 2 hr fixes.And ppl don't weld the holes anymore.They use the premabond it the compound for puttin door skins on.

08-22-2009, 07:17 PM	#12
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	I weld them and metal finish them with various metal files, I do it the right way

08-22-2009, 07:55 PM	#13
boost03 Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Aug 2009 Member #14461 My Ride: TWIN TURBO 03 COBRA iTrader: (0)	We lead fill holes put ppl don't want to pay the cost.We don't weld because pin holes can trip moister.But most shop don't care anymore because most ppl are cheap and want **** done for penny on a dollar.So they use the sealer.If you are in the body work you know how ppl think it easy and you can paint a car rite for 500$ and have it done in a day .Only a example

08-22-2009, 09:46 PM	#14
polarexpress17 Tri-State Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Member #10803 My Ride: 1993 Probe GT, 2.7l KL with PTE T66 iTrader: (1)	well whatever then, did it that way on my 1st probe and this probe, the guy who bought my 1st one to this day has had no issues and i see the car on a fairly-frequent basis. can't even tell there were ever door locks there. no bubbling in the paint, no cracking no warping, no nothing. so i guess there is more than one way to do it right. Fortunately since i'm cheap cause of not being able to find a job it costed me alot less and looks the same after its finished. used a 220 grit flapper disc with hardly any pressure on the metal. it was almost perfect that when i sanded off the body filler (rage extreme before i get flamed ) there was only a few small spots that still had it on. then went over it again with a coat of polyester spot putty and again there was only really fine strips that were filled in from the flapper disc. not sure why i'm even debating this as of course my way is "hood" easy to me might be extremely difficult for you, and vice versa. and yes, i do consider it pretty easy... __________________ '93 PGT - Ross 10:1 pistons, B18 H beam rods, Quaife LSD, Custom I/M, Precision T-66, NOS wet nitrous 55 shot, meth injection, J&S Safeguard, Nissan 370cc injectors, AEM wideband, MS1 V2.2(for now,) Nitto NT555Rs, 3" exhaust, D2 coilovers, 18" Rays Engineering 57 optimise, No, my username is NOT from that stupid movie.

08-23-2009, 03:27 AM	#15
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	Filler should never be used in a situation like this, filling or shaving anything body filler shouldn't be used. It's all about leading and metal finishing I'm sorry I'm on a whole different level. I take the smallest job as seriously as a full chop and channel. Body filler is for the unskilled.

08-23-2009, 11:17 AM	#16
polarexpress17 Tri-State Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Member #10803 My Ride: 1993 Probe GT, 2.7l KL with PTE T66 iTrader: (1)	sure __________________ '93 PGT - Ross 10:1 pistons, B18 H beam rods, Quaife LSD, Custom I/M, Precision T-66, NOS wet nitrous 55 shot, meth injection, J&S Safeguard, Nissan 370cc injectors, AEM wideband, MS1 V2.2(for now,) Nitto NT555Rs, 3" exhaust, D2 coilovers, 18" Rays Engineering 57 optimise, No, my username is NOT from that stupid movie.

08-23-2009, 02:09 PM	#17
evomike Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Sep 2006 Member #2578 My Ride: 03 duramax and a 04 evo iTrader: (3)	Learn how to lead and get back at me

08-24-2009, 01:04 AM	#18
s3xrapt0r Tri-State Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Sewell NJ Member #13537 My Ride: 1988 Toyota MR2 N/A iTrader: (0)	damn this sounds like quite a job then and ill need to at least find a welder. my friend did the rust on his wheel wells with screen and bondo its been holding for a good few months now PERFECT but id rather not chance it if its gonna look bad that way the welding thing would make me feel alot better at least i can roll around knowing i didnt resort to a bondo fix lol __________________ 1988 Toyota MR2: Low and Slow 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander AWD: The Daily 1993 Honda Prelude JDM h23a bluetop: Used as a lawn gnome

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