Turbo Questions

[GokuRen]

Just recently I went to a junkyard and pulled out a Turbo, Intercooler and Intercooler Pipes out of a Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooled, mid 80s, early 90s model. I'm relatively new to the whole turbo thing but I was tired of driving a slow car, lol. I have a 1988 Blue Ford Mustang 2.3L LX Notchback. I used to cruise around in a 1992 Red w/Silver Flames Ford Mustang 5.0L GT Hatchback until I got struck by a deer. Anyways, from what I hear, its a T3 turbo that is internally wastegated. The only set of turbo headers I could find for my car were made with a port for an external wastegate. I was wondering if it was ok to just close off the external wastegate port since the turbo is already internally wastegated. And, if so, if there is a place that might sell a flange piece to block it off, just like a piece of metal the right size to bolt on. Also a friend of mine told me that it appears that the turbo will need to be resealed because it had an oil leak that let oil seep onto the intake turbine. I'm not quite sure if thats currect because there was only a small bit of oil in the intake side of the turbo, but the outside of the turbo was coated in oil because right above the turbo, was a leaky valve cover gasket and leaky oil filter. My last question is, on the Intercooler - Intake pipe, there is a hose that goes off into a Bosch blowoff valve. I heard that these blowoff valves aren't that good because they have a tendancy to leak. I'm not really concerned because I'm only going to making this application for approx 5-7lbs of boost. There is a sensor plug on the bottom end of the blowoff valve that has 3 wires (Green, White w/Red Stripe and Yellow w/Red Stripe). I was wondering what these 3 wires would go to in a non-factory turbo installation, or if these wires and plug are even needed.

[GokuRen]

Also, I mentioned that the turbo may need to be resealed, I forgot to ask if this is a hard process for me to do on my own, or would I have to get the turbo sent out. If so, how hard would it be to do on my own or how much would it cost to get done?

[2point4DSM]

Originally Posted by GokuRen

The only set of turbo headers I could find for my car were made with a port for an external wastegate. I was wondering if it was ok to just close off the external wastegate port since the turbo is already internally wastegated.

Yes, just block off the port on the headers.

Originally Posted by GokuRen

And, if so, if there is a place that might sell a flange piece to block it off, just like a piece of metal the right size to bolt on.

Try a machine shop. They should be able to make one for you. I've made them before. The trick is finding metal thick enough to withstand the heat.

Originally Posted by GokuRen

Also a friend of mine told me that it appears that the turbo will need to be resealed because it had an oil leak that let oil seep onto the intake turbine.

If the turbo needs to be rebuilt you need to send it off to a reputable turbo shop. It is not possible to reseal it yourself. Rebuilds are normally $300 and up depending on what it needs.

Originally Posted by GokuRen

There is a sensor plug on the bottom end of the blowoff valve that has 3 wires (Green, White w/Red Stripe and Yellow w/Red Stripe). I was wondering what these 3 wires would go to in a non-factory turbo installation, or if these wires and plug are even needed.

Not needed.

[GokuRen]

Well the turbine and the shaft is fine, there's no shaft play. All it MAY need is to be resealed. I know it costs $300 to get a whole turbo remanufactured because I could buy a whole new one $300 from www.turbocalculator.com or www.ssautochrome.com but all it MAY need is to be sealed, how could that be expensive?

[teh DIRT]

before you jump knees deep into this project you should know a few things.

Turboing a engine that was originally naturallly aspirated isnt the greatest idea. NA (naturally aspirated) engines are made a certain way and they are very different from a turbo engine. You will most likely need to address fuel and timing issues that come with a turbo engine.

1. More air means more fuel. I dont know a lot about the 4cyl stang, but I highly doubt the fuel system is capable of handling boost. If you dont address this, you will most likely run into detonation issues and destroy your motor.

That along with many other things need to be considered. My suggestion is that you do some more research, this can definitly be done, but it take a little work.

[GokuRen]

I'm not trying to run high boost or anything, like for a racing application, I'm only looking for about 5lbs of boost. The motor has about 110k miles on it. I think there might be enough excess fuel to cover the extra air thats going to be added because my A/F Gauge runs 1 bar rich sometimes when I run it on regular. Even had some excess fuel build up and cause a pop out the exhaust pipe. Not so sure thats a good thing, lol. But maybe that could hint that I may have enough fuel to cover 5lbs of boost.

[2point4DSM]

Originally Posted by GokuRen

Well the turbine and the shaft is fine, there's no shaft play. All it MAY need is to be resealed. I know it costs $300 to get a whole turbo remanufactured because I could buy a whole new one $300 from www.turbocalculator.com or www.ssautochrome.com but all it MAY need is to be sealed, how could that be expensive?

Sounds like the turbo might be fine as is. Leave it alone. You can't reseal that turbo because it doesn't have any real seals. If it is leaking then the shaft needs to be refurbished so that the oil slingers can deflect the oil properly and new bearings need to be matched to the center section to keep everything tight.

Possible oil got into the compressor side from the intake pipe, which would be normal.

Good luck with the turbo mod.

[GokuRen]

Thanks for your help and suggestion, and your luck, heh. My luck i'll break something before i even start it up. But lets hope that doesn't happen.....

[Orbit]

It's normal to see a small amount of oil in the turbo. It's probably not leaking.

[the mike]

First off, let me commend you on doing some research on your project.

That said, you might be better off finding a wrecked TurboCoupe and getting the whole motor, ECU, wiring,etc.
If not, see if TurboCoupe injectors will fit in there. You might also be able to use the MAF/MAP setup. They are probably good for about 14lbs of boost.

Try Deadbolt for a turbo rebuild, they are good and fairly reasonable.

As far as the SSAutochrome turbos, you get what you pay for there. Like OBX and other ebay companies, they are out to make money, not spend a ton on R&D.

Good luck with the project,

mike

[GokuRen]

that was my first idea, trying to find a turbocoupe or merkur with the 2.3L turbo setup and swapping the motor, I've been looking for quite a long time. So i finally gave up and decided to try to find all the turbo parts I could that would work, and buy what I couldn't find. It's only going to be about a 5lb boost setup. Nothing fancy, just tired of the 18s, lol. I used to drive a 13s n/a mustang with no motor work, just bolt ons and exhaust. To a 19s mustang. With a lil work i got it from mid 19s to mid 18s but thats still too slow for my needs, heh. I'm not trying to beat the crap out of any cars, I'm just trying to get a little more oopmh when I hit the gas, heh. But thanks alot for your suggestions, its greatly appreciated.

[07BlackSS]

Teh Dirt is right, there is a lot of stuff that you may have to modify. Unfortunately, a lot of people think you can just bolt on the turbo, set the interanl wastegate and it will work like a charm. Other than the turbo, manifold, bov, piping and intercooler, here is a couple other things you may need to invest in:

1. Mild head work (head studs, port and polish and possibly cams)
2. ECU (I too don't know much about your car but you might want to invest in a new ecu and hack it so the fuel delivery and timing is ok. I don't even know if this is possible.)
3. new injectors (more air = more fuel, yours might not be able to handle it)

A good place to look for advice would be a mustang forum but you are on the right track. I am using a custom Volvo setup on my civic as well. Try googling different things and you'll be surprised how much **** you can actually find. Good Luck!

EDIT: by the way, it is not the amount of boost your run it is the horsepower that ends up killing the engine(granted that is with a good tune!). On the right tune, a lot of cars can withstand 10 psi of boost no prob. I have heard of completely stock civic's runing 14 psi all day no problem.

[2point4DSM]

I helped a buddy turbocharge his celica 5sfe motor 10 or so years ago. We left the motor alone and it boosted up to 8 psi fine. One of the most important mods is colder spark plugs gapped smaller. If you keep the stock plug setup the motor will tend to cut out due to the spark getting blown out. But the biggest problem is overheating the stock plug causing it to come apart and in the process ruin your motor.

Spark plug technology is so simple and often overlooked but very important. Here is a good website to read up on....

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...31000&country=

[07BlackSS]

Originally Posted by 2point4DSM

I helped a buddy turbocharge his celica 5sfe motor 10 or so years ago. We left the motor alone and it boosted up to 8 psi fine. One of the most important mods is colder spark plugs gapped smaller. If you keep the stock plug setup the motor will tend to cut out due to the spark getting blown out. But the biggest problem is overheating the stock plug causing it to come apart and in the process ruin your motor.

Spark plug technology is so simple and often overlooked but very important. Here is a good website to read up on....

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...31000&country=

Damn good info Wil, Thanks man. I havn't seen any info on this before.

[redfiveoh14]

u can drop a new 302 in there for 1700....

[2point4DSM]

I'm guessing at this point the turbo setup is costing a lot less money... probably close to 1/4th. And the motor will be a lot more efficient as well. Although I would agree the V8 would make more power in the end.

[07BlackSS]

Originally Posted by 2point4DSM

I'm guessing at this point the turbo setup is costing a lot less money... probably close to 1/4th.

Wil is right with a custom stup I put mine together for 400 so far. That includes everything except for the manifold.

[GokuRen]

Well, I wouldn't mind dropping a 302 V8 5.0L motor into my notchback, but why? Half the gas milage, maybe less then that. Plus I have a 13 second mustang gt sitting in my driveway with a 5.0 with work done, and a police package AOD motor and trans with 70k miles sitting in my garage. Oh btw, that motor is for sale too, lol. If anyone wants it. 70k miles, MAC headers, MSD cap and rotor. only missing an alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires. But anyways, I already had a 5.0 in my gt, plus the gas prices suck these days and my notchback is getting about 25mpg. My gt got about 12mpg. 200 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Not too good ya know? lol. Now im getting about 400miles out of a 16gallon tank. But everybody with a mustang has a 5.0 setup. But honestly, how many 4cyl turbo mustangs do you really see running around the streets these days? I want to be different. I don't care if it doesn't keep up with my 5.0, it's something different ya know? You rarely see a 4cyl mustang used for anything other then a daily driver or some kids little beater. But how often do you really see a turbo 2.3 mustang running around? I live in winslow, and I can honestly tell you, from going to the philly races, to going to the foreman mill car show/meetings, from racing everybody on 42, 73, and the expressway in my gt, and knowing just about all the mechanics in my area, I've never come across one. I got the motor and the parts to make my notchback a 5.0, but why be like everyone else, when you can be different?

[1988 Olds]

Thats awsome dude. I was also going to say just drop a 5.0 into it but I guess some people got to be different. I also wanted to just get a 5.0 when I was younger but grandpa gave me his beat up old cutlass and I fixed it up. I bet you see less 13 second cutlasses driving around then turbo 2.3L.

[sfd]

is there a big difference between the 2.3 na and turbocoupe as a motor? for example, the mazda 1.8 is in fact a factory turbo motor, with a change in head gasket to up compression a bit. thats about it. the block is the same and the head actually flows better than the factory turbo model.

If there is no huge difference, you should be able to boost low on a stock fuel system. The important thing would simply be getting your timing right and plugs as well said.

Even with a huge difference, some j/y injectors and a bit of timing works wonders. The Ford 1.9 is a higher compression, economy motor, and the escort community has been able to push double digit numbers of boost on minimal effort.

I know little about turbo setups. But you seem to be going the right way. I think you should check your motor specs just to see. If the 2.3 na and 2.3 turbo are extremely similiar, your turbo project might be a lot easier than it seems.