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Old 06-12-2009, 07:57 PM   #1
99SL2_Modder
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Failmount, lulz





Oops.

I knew it was going bad, I just thought I had a little more time until I started the car this morning. XD

(That's my torque axis mount...or what's left of it.)
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:05 PM   #2
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Yeah looks crappy... Is that the kind you press into the old style?
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by OutToWinPAHC View Post
Yeah looks crappy... Is that the kind you press into the old style?
Nope. This mount is 5 years old and completely custom.

Stock mounts are garbage. It's almost 100% solid. The poly was 96a(?) shore. Maybe 95. It's whatever the highest is.

What it looked like new:


Stock:
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:21 PM   #4
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wow why would you even let it get that bad. its obviously been ****ed up for quite some time, that doesn't happen overnight.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:41 PM   #5
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wow why would you even let it get that bad. its obviously been ****ed up for quite some time, that doesn't happen overnight.
It's been slowly getting worse, but it wasn't that bad when I checked it last. I drive 64 miles a day if I only go to work. I checked it last week, and it looked like it could go a bit longer, but I was wrong.
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:02 PM   #6
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Do they make ones with c-clips to hold them in? I wouldn't trust them just pressed in like that. That thing is desroyed though, ouch. I guess it made some horrible noises when you fired her up?
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:09 PM   #7
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Do they make ones with c-clips to hold them in? I wouldn't trust them just pressed in like that. That thing is desroyed though, ouch. I guess it made some horrible noises when you fired her up?
There were only 5 of these ever made. I have the 2nd one. They're all the same, and they hold up REALLY well. But apparently when they fail, they fail.

And noise was an understatement. At first it sounded like my hood prop fell out of its bracket, but it got progressively worse. I drove Hoss to work today instead of the Satillac.
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:14 PM   #8
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Yikes. I'm guessing you'll be grabbing a stock one for now. Matter of fact, I have to put my new one on tomorrow...
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:39 PM   #9
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clint jesus christ, im assuming this is why you hit me up...damn shame poor satillac
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:44 PM   #10
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Poor design - remake it with a solid delrin or urethane bushing (no halves) pressed in and WASHER on either side so the bolt and bracket aren't the only holding points.
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:13 PM   #11
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Poor design - remake it with a solid delrin or urethane bushing (no halves) pressed in and WASHER on either side so the bolt and bracket aren't the only holding points.
I really dont know why there WASNT a huge ass washer on there. All of my mounts have ginormous washers.
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:13 PM   #12
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Yeah you need them to hold the bushing otherwise you just end up deforming it. I have urethane bushings in control arms and such and have huge fender washers.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:45 PM   #13
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Source me out a solid bushing to fit my tube with the highest shore you can get.

*edit*
There are 0 reports of these failing, mostly because no one has run one as long as I have. This thing is ridiculously solid. Ask anyone who's been in my car.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:46 PM   #14
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What is the diameter? Is that a bet? You won't like the odds ;)
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:52 PM   #15
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What is the diameter? Is that a bet? You won't like the odds ;)
Give me like 4 hours to get home and pull up the e-mail I got from Energy with corresponding bushings.

I sent them the specs, but I can't remember them off the top of my head.

I believe it was 2" ID, 3" long, 1/2" lip with 1/4" thickness. I might have the lip and thickness swapped, and I can't be sure of the length.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:52 PM   #16
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Mcmaster.com part number 8784K945

6" length for $36 and about 45 seconds in a lathe. This is assuming ~2" diameter. Center drill on a lathe, turn down to ID of sleeve, fender washers and a bolt and nut. Simplest thing ever - hopefully you didn't pay too much initially. Its 95A duro, if you want harder than that you need nylon 6/6 or kevlar nylon - about $17 - $60 a foot in 2".
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99SL2_Modder View Post
Give me like 4 hours to get home and pull up the e-mail I got from Energy with corresponding bushings.

I sent them the specs, but I can't remember them off the top of my head.

I believe it was 2" ID, 3" long, 1/2" lip with 1/4" thickness. I might have the lip and thickness swapped, and I can't be sure of the length.
Forget the lip. You want a solid single piece that you will press in and have ~1/16" of an inch longer than that sleeve which will have fender washers on either side. The two piece design is why it failed. You also want to drill a hole down the center and press in a stainless "sleeve" through the bushing to let the bolt ride in snug-like vs just tearing the bushing material.

Like this:

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Old 06-13-2009, 12:02 AM   #18
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If you live in PA, let me know if I can just hand my brackets to you and have you get it done, since you seem to know what you're doing. :p

Like I said, these were never meant for mass production. 5 were made, and never again. They were ridiculously tough.

I don't want to go any more solid than the hardest poly. (95a, 96a?). This hardness already puts all engine vibrations into the cab. Being that this is the mount that my engine torques off of and it's bolted to my TCC, I don't want to risk going any harder.
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Old 06-13-2009, 12:03 AM   #19
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Epic double post FTW.
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Old 06-13-2009, 05:53 AM   #20
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The tube that it was meant to fit was 2" ID long. The bushings consisted of 2 bushings on either side that went in 1", and stuck out around 0.25", with an OD on the "lip" of 2.5"
From the e-mail

So, from this, I get 2" ID, 2" long.

And from the now-defunct "lip", 1/4" thick and 2.5" OD.

I think the lip was there to keep the bushing from sliding, if it were to happen. Keep in mind this is transverse, so the engine torques to the firewall, which may or may not have some effect on the bushing and sliding.
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