Key stop working? Locked out? Lost your key? Some Locksmith/Key/Lock Facts!

[DPancoast]

This is another chunk of info I found on the MR2 boards. I dunno about you guys but I lock myself out of my car quite a bit haha. I have a bunch of spare keys (not necessarily a good thing) but still manage to be stuck sometimes. Check it out, I know I learned something.

Probably going to be an extremely long post and a little unorganized. Here goes, almost everything you want to know about locksmiths/locksmithing related to our cars. Please take all of the following with a grain of salt. This will cover most of the common basic scenarios.

If locksmith has popped into your head, you probably need a locksmith. Keep in mind that all locksmiths are not alike, as there are many sub-fields to locksmithing (I.e. residential, commercial, safes & auto). Any pricing or estimates you get from your local service provider will vary greatly as materials used, methods and technology being applied varies from operation to operation.

Q: Aren’t all locksmiths the same?

A: Definitely not. There are many sub-fields to locksmithing and cross training in the sub-fields is not always done. I consider automotive locksmithing a specialty as many locksmiths aren’t proficient, efficient or execute to a higher standard.

Q: How do I find a good locksmith that specializes in automotive locks/keys.

A: Try getting a referral from your local car dealership, insurance agent or roadside assistance club.
* special note - Beware! A local San Francisco Consumer Reporter’s research team estimates that only 2% of the locksmiths listed on the net, phone book or 411 are completely legitimate (basically lots of scam artist masquerading as locksmith). Unfortunately, this problem is running rampant in all service based trades.
* special note - It’ll probably be tough locating a locksmith with a store front, as many of the fake locksmiths saturate the various mediums of advertising with their phone numbers and corresponding fake address to unscrupulously take advantage of and confuse consumers.
* special note - California locksmith’s are currently required to be licensed through the Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Q: Why does locksmith A and locksmith B have different pricing?

A: Some of the many reasons are the broad ranges in overhead that a business has to pay for rent, payroll, training, insurance, proficiency of staff, quality of materials, quality of equipment/tools being used and general maintenance of key equipment/tools.

Q: What lubricant do I use in my automotive locks? Why not graphite?

A: In order of functional preference: Lok Shot, LPS1 or Tri--Flow (well rounded products that are readily available). A minimal burst into each lock is usually sufficient. Graphite is not as forgiving in some environmental conditions and is rarely applied properly.
* special note - would only use WD-40 to clean, to immediately be followed by one of the above for lubrication, as WD-40 alone is too corrosive.

Q: What is a code key and why do I want one?

A: A code key is a key that is cut to factory specifications. A code key without wear helps to break the cycle of wear an improperly cut or worn key can cause. A properly cut key that is within the proper operating range will help to avoid more costly repairs and inconvenience. Keys are generally made of brass. Brass is metal, but does still wear down with use. Code keys are generally the most economical fix and drastically help in diagnosing problems that might exist with the locks. The only reason not to get a code key is if you are going to sell the car very soon.

Q: Why not just get a new duplicate key?

A: A freshly cut duplicate key is generally cut on a duplicator. A duplicator will copy over wear that is present on the template key supplied to be copied.

Q: Why do business A and business B have different prices to copy my key?

A; Quality and precision of the keys and key machines being used. Key stock comes in different grades of material and precision millings.
* special note - Spyder owners - Beware! Transponder key! Cost vary greatly due to materials, methods and technology used. Possible methods include clonable keys, on board programming with an existing master key or adding keys with diagnostic equipment.
* special note - It’s generally much cheaper to make a spare key than have one made from scratch.

Q: My key just stopped working all of a sudden. How and why did this happen?

A: The lock might just need some lubrication. There could be debris or pocket lint that got into the lock that needs to be flushed out. Could be a worn key, worn lock or both. For locksmiths in North America, we use thousandths of an inch for measuring and calibrating. A code key will generally resolve this 85% of the time, even if it just part of the problem.

Q: Where do I get my key code?

A: 1) Your local dealership might have it on file by the VIN. Requirements for keeping on file vary by location. *Keep in mind that data entry is not always accurate and that this does not apply if the lock(s) have been re-keyed or replaced. Codes to VIN are NOT updated in the system
3) The code can usually be generated by decoding from existing key, if the key is not too far worn or damaged (depending on skill level of locksmith or if this service is even offered).

Q: I lost my only key. What do I do?

A: In no specific order
1) If you know your specific key code - get a replacement code key from your local locksmith or service provider of your choice. This is why you want to have a spare key or know your key code.
2) If you don’t know your key code - call your local mobile locksmith to generate the key from scratch or tow the vehicle to the service provider of your choice.
* special note - Spyder owners - Beware! Transponder key! Cost vary greatly due to materials, methods and technology used.

Q: Sometimes I need to jiggle the key in the lock to get it to turn. What should I do?

A: Needing to jiggle the key is a sign of worse things come. Could be a worn key or worn lock. A code key will solve the problem if it’s just the key. If it’s the lock and the problem is caught early on, some locksmiths can rebuild the lock. Locks & keys don’t magically fix themselves, so putting off repairs will most likely lead to greater out of pocket expenses.
* special note - ignition locks need to turn to the ACC position to be removed properly and cost effectively.

Q: My lock is broken and needs to be replaced. What are some of my options?

A: 1) Used locks are an option, but the initial cost savings will usually come back to haunt you.
2) New Toyota OE locks are a very good way to go if it’s within your budget.
3) New locks advertised as OEM grade - Good automotive locksmiths have sources for parts
4) Generic replacement lock - Beware some replacement locks are not serviceable and can not be recoded.
* special note - Please remember to have the replacement lock recoded to match your existing key (to maintain a one key car) prior to the lock being installed.
* special note - All MR2s come from the factory as a one key car (all locks on an individual car are keyed alike, excluding optional locks) Generating a key from scratch to a multi key car is generally more expensive.

Some misconceptions:

1) hit the key with a hammer to get it to turn in the ignition?

A: DON'T HIT, it's more of a tapping motion (just hard enough to move stuck wafers. This should only be done when ready to repair and/or replace the lock. This action can damage the lock if done too forcefully. This will also lesson the chances of the existing lock being salvageable and repairable.

2) filing the wafers in the existing wafers in the lock so that your existing key will work?

A: Most recommend against this as it will definitely increase the odds of some other random key turning in the lock.

[DocWalt]

You always post these super informative threads. Good reads Thanks!

[twastheglow]

Excellent post! Props!

[DPancoast]

haha don't thank me, thank whoever put it up on the MR2 boards! I'm just a messenger