clutch replacement q's.

[twastheglow]

Unfortunately, it seems I'm going to need my clutch replaced in my e36. It's been acting up and slipping a bit over the last couple days and it's gotten a little worse. It also sucks because I don't have the time to even consider tackling this job with a couple friends.

My question(s) is, how many hours of labor/ how much money is generally required to replace it? I'm trying to gauge how much it's going to cost me (not including parts). Also, is there anything else I should consider replacing while that's being changed?

[twastheglow]

You know, I know it's going to cost me a pretty penny, but all I can do is laugh. hahahahahaahahahaha **** the police!

[DPancoast]

its a shame with stuff like this because I only really know the tips and tricks for MR2s.... but either way

- I'd suggest using an OEM throw out bearing. You can get an aftermarket clutch or OEM equivalent to the stock one if you want to save money, but I've always heard not to skimp on the T/O bearing.
- Look into replacing any gaskets that may be there in taking your trans out. Axle seals, Rear main, etc)... I don't really know BMWs so I have no idea what the job involves.
- Depending on the mileage of your car, maybe look into flushing your clutch fluid to put some new in. Also, check the status of any clutch system components... slaves, master cylinders etc and make sure they are in working order!
- While the trans is out you should also throw some new gear oil in!

Labor wise who knows haha, I'm sure a couple different vendors on here will chime in. Clutch jobs are usually pretty involved according to any shop manual. But I'm sure the BMW guys have it down to a science and could tell you different. I used to have access to Alldata Pro but I don't anymore.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by DPancoast

its a shame with stuff like this because I only really know the tips and tricks for MR2s.... but either way

- I'd suggest using an OEM throw out bearing. You can get an aftermarket clutch or OEM equivalent to the stock one if you want to save money, but I've always heard not to skimp on the T/O bearing.
- Look into replacing any gaskets that may be there in taking your trans out. Axle seals, Rear main, etc)... I don't really know BMWs so I have no idea what the job involves.
- Depending on the mileage of your car, maybe look into flushing your clutch fluid to put some new in. Also, check the status of any clutch system components... slaves, master cylinders etc and make sure they are in working order!
- While the trans is out you should also throw some new gear oil in!

Labor wise who knows haha, I'm sure a couple different vendors on here will chime in. Clutch jobs are usually pretty involved according to any shop manual. But I'm sure the BMW guys have it down to a science and could tell you different. I used to have access to Alldata Pro but I don't anymore.

I've priced a oem clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, alignment tool) from Turner Motorsports for $240. As far as replacing anything else, I guess I will wait to hear from some BMW peeps. I was considering also buying a new slave cylinder but I didn't know if it would be worth it. And as far as gear oil...good call! I've been meaning to flush it and fill with Redline.

[DPancoast]

Yeah when my new MR2 was running it had Redline MT-90 in it and I thought it was awesome compared to anything I've ever driven before. Very smooth. The slave cylinder might be a good call, you just have to see how worn your current one is. It would probably improve clutch feel and maybe response as well, I'm not sure. $240 isn't bad at all man. It probably won't get much cheaper without sacrificing quality. I remember I did a Perfection clutch kit in my red MR2 and it was $180, but the T/O bearing was making noise in no time. Hence when I quickly learned to use OEM haha.

[Shoolig]

A clutch is just like changing brakes, except easier but takes longer.

It's a RWD drive car so it's going to take less than an afternoon, possibly an entire Saturday if it's your first time.

-Jack up the car.
- Remove heat shields and exhaust (downpipe)
- Disconnect the driveshaft/ guibo (w/e it is)
- Remove slave cylinder, throw off to the side, don't disconnect the lines.
- Remove starter
- Disconnect linkage
-Remove transmission mount
- Remove bell housing bolts, get a nice long extension to reach the top ones.
- Slide the trans backward just enough to reach the pressure plate.
- Remove presssure plate and flywheel.
- Go get flyhweel cut, replaced rear main seal and pilot bearing.
- Slide transmission back forward and "stab" it.
- Bolt everything back up.

Easy peasy. Did this on my twin turbo Z and my old E30 in literally a few hours while on jackstands (which makes it harder than a lift).

[05 mazda6s]

You have the SMG or 6-speed manual?

[Shoolig]

Originally Posted by 05 mazda6s

You have the SMG or 6-speed manual?

It's a 5 speed. It's a 1993 3-series, not an E46.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by Shoolig

It's a 5 speed. It's a 1993 3-series, not an E46.

Correct, although the drive train is from a '96 328i (not that that matters).

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by Shoolig

A clutch is just like changing brakes, except easier but takes longer.

It's a RWD drive car so it's going to take less than an afternoon, possibly an entire Saturday if it's your first time.

-Jack up the car.
- Remove heat shields and exhaust (downpipe)
- Disconnect the driveshaft/ guibo (w/e it is)
- Remove slave cylinder, throw off to the side, don't disconnect the lines.
- Remove starter
- Disconnect linkage
-Remove transmission mount
- Remove bell housing bolts, get a nice long extension to reach the top ones.
- Slide the trans backward just enough to reach the pressure plate.
- Remove presssure plate and flywheel.
- Go get flyhweel cut, replaced rear main seal and pilot bearing.
- Slide transmission back forward and "stab" it.
- Bolt everything back up.

Easy peasy. Did this on my twin turbo Z and my old E30 in literally a few hours while on jackstands (which makes it harder than a lift).

What are you saying, you'll do it for me in your driveway if I pay you?

[russiankid]

You are going to end up spending roughly $500 on parts. You'll need a clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, new slave cylinder, shifter bushings, rear output shaft seal and front input shaft seal(not sure if you can replace it, may not need it). You can also replace the center support bearing on the driveshaft. If you're going to get in there to do the clutch, do it right.

Oh and do the rear main seal on the engine. You do not have to remove the starter to get the trans off. You will need to loosen it though. Its a bitch and a half to get the starter out on the M50, S50, S52, or M52.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by russiankid

You are going to end up spending roughly $500 on parts. You'll need a clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, new slave cylinder, shifter bushings, rear output shaft seal and front input shaft seal(not sure if you can replace it, may not need it). You can also replace the center support bearing on the driveshaft. If you're going to get in there to do the clutch, do it right.

Oh and do the rear main seal on the engine. You do not have to remove the starter to get the trans off. You will need to loosen it though. Its a bitch and a half to get the starter out on the M50, S50, S52, or M52.

I'm going to pick up a new guibo too.

[twastheglow]

Ugh! Yep...right around $500 in parts shipped. I'm not looking forward to hearing the labor charge!

[Xuracing]

Labor depending on the shop will range from 400-600, Thats if its non bmw specific shop, bmw specific will cost more

You could probably tackle the job in under 3 hours if you have the right tools and parts.

The only thing i would recommend while doing it is before putting the new clutch while the trans is still out is, Using 100 grit sand paper and sand down the flywheel a little, this will help prevent premature clutch failure... or at least make it have less of a chance.

an oem clutch should run you no more then 250 plus shipping. and if you can get labor for 400ish that would be great

I was able to pull my mkiv supra v160 in about 4 hours and have it back in, And that thing was a pain, you had inspection windows to unbolt the pressure plate, The e36 the glory is its a push type clutch (pressure plate)so after you unbolt everything everything slides off, and then you can pop the clutch off with ease.

a set of pneumatic tools will shorten your time under the car greatly.

[russiankid]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

I'm going to pick up a new guibo too.

Good call.

Originally Posted by twastheglow

Ugh! Yep...right around $500 in parts shipped. I'm not looking forward to hearing the labor charge!

Can you tell I've been wanting a 5-speed for quite some time?

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by Xuracing

Labor depending on the shop will range from 400-600, Thats if its non bmw specific shop, bmw specific will cost more

You could probably tackle the job in under 3 hours if you have the right tools and parts.

The only thing i would recommend while doing it is before putting the new clutch while the trans is still out is, Using 100 grit sand paper and sand down the flywheel a little, this will help prevent premature clutch failure... or at least make it have less of a chance.

an oem clutch should run you no more then 250 plus shipping. and if you can get labor for 400ish that would be great

I was able to pull my mkiv supra v160 in about 4 hours and have it back in, And that thing was a pain, you had inspection windows to unbolt the pressure plate, The e36 the glory is its a push type clutch (pressure plate)so after you unbolt everything everything slides off, and then you can pop the clutch off with ease.

a set of pneumatic tools will shorten your time under the car greatly.

I truely wish I had the time to spend trying to tackle this myself but I know I won't for months. I did find the clutch kit for $240 from Turner. But I may as well replace some other things while I'm doing it...guibo, csb, slave cylinder, ss clutch line, tranny mounts, gear oil...that's where the rough $500 comes from.

I'm going to call around for labor prices on Monday. *nervous*

[twastheglow]

****'s weird though, I drove to the drug store a mile or two away and the car acted fine. Am I jumping the gun with this clutch **** or does it start out super intermitten 1st?

[russiankid]

I honestly don't see a point in getting an SS line. A lot of people who have gotten them before only noticed slight increase in pedal resistance. May as well do transmission mounts too. Maybe I am going overboard with this stuff, but thats how I usually do it. If I am in there, might as well do it.

[russiankid]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

****'s weird though, I drove to the drug store a mile or two away and the car acted fine. Am I jumping the gun with this clutch **** or does it start out super intermitten 1st?

Before you jump into this, make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking. If its not, pull the salve cylinder out and make sure its not leaking. If its leaking, I wouldn't be surprised if you have brake fluid on your clutch, which kills it.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by russiankid

Before you jump into this, make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking. If its not, pull the salve cylinder out and make sure its not leaking. If its leaking, I wouldn't be surprised if you have brake fluid on your clutch, which kills it.

I'll check it tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the MC isn't leaking, but I'll check it anyway. I've never checked the SC before. Would a leaky SC cause this problem? If it is leaking and getting on the clutch causing the slipping, will my clutch be fine if I fix the leak or did the brake fluid **** it up for good?