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Old 02-27-2009, 08:28 PM   #1
GHost240SX
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Calling all detailers!!!!

I need your advice on detailing in general. How do you go about approaching a black car that's swirled to all hell? I want to do my buddy's car but never really done a black car thats as ****ed up as his before.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:38 PM   #2
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Please post in the most specific forum available... moving this one for you.
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Old 02-28-2009, 05:31 PM   #3
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:14 PM   #4
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My car has a ****load of swirls, and bird**** stains. I think the only way to get stuff like that out is to use a strong compound or even claybar. I tried some compound on the bird****, but it didn't really help.
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:58 PM   #5
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My car has a ****load of swirls, and bird**** stains. I think the only way to get stuff like that out is to use a strong compound or even claybar. I tried some compound on the bird****, but it didn't really help.
Well I pretty much have all the chemicals I want and more at my disposal. I'm the manager at a detail shop. The owner is a douchebag though and I want to branch off and do my own thing. I bring cars in to do on the side but I never done a super ****ed up black car. So I'm trying to see what everyone's approach is to it.
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:00 PM   #6
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Considering black cars have developed to one of my specialties I can opt to help, you can see plenty of my work on here in this thread with the attached links http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/...ad.php?t=71179
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:15 PM   #7
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i hate to thread jack , but my car has swirls not too bad, but the front of my hood is pretty chipped (01 IS 300 has thin paint wackness) anyone know of a good paint chip system other then touch up and sand down? I had a thread about this but it was erased in the server catastrophe of 09...

maybe even a shop that will do chip restoration the price of a decent respray and clear coat is too much right now i am looking to avoid rust

again sorry for thread jacking
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i find whipping it out as soon as possible gets rid of that gray area that leads to the "friend zone". but thats just my experience. your results may vary
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:34 PM   #8
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Ok, let's start with this, what kind of buffer do you have? Pads associated? What "chemicals" do you have at your disposal, need names and types and we can go from there.

As for the paint chip restoration, the best way to protect it without touching it up/painting it is to make sure it is clean and maintain a good wax covering/sealant for the time being. Depending on the size of the chips, different methods/options are available and I can't really tell you the best route to go about it without pics or seeing it in person.
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:54 PM   #9
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Ok, let's start with this, what kind of buffer do you have? Pads associated? What "chemicals" do you have at your disposal, need names and types and we can go from there.

As for the paint chip restoration, the best way to protect it without touching it up/painting it is to make sure it is clean and maintain a good wax covering/sealant for the time being. Depending on the size of the chips, different methods/options are available and I can't really tell you the best route to go about it without pics or seeing it in person.
We use dewalt buffers. We have the white pads and the blue foam pads. We also are supplied by ardex so I have all that at my disposal.
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:02 PM   #10
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Ok, here's the first step for a severely damaged black car with Ardex materials.

Get an Ardex Yellow and green pad, white is for fine polishing, blue is polishing. Yellow is cutting, green is mild cut/polish. Grab ardex's 1500, go over the car carefully with the yellow pad. After you've done the whole car, go over it with Ardex SEALB with the green pad. After that you can use Ardex Nano sealant and or a wax of your choice and then hand buff it/buffer it off with the white or blue pads. Be CAREFUL as the 1500 is a compound and do not push too hard as you will burn the paint with this stuff and just go slow on a low speed with the Dewalt, I prefer Cyclo which is what I use however that's out of the options.

The 1500/SealB may require more than one pass, but make sure you buff each panel/the car evenly as black is very sensitive to it. If it's really bad, then MAYBE try the 2500, but at that point you will probably be better off wet sanding the whole car and then 1500/SealB.
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:13 PM   #11
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Here are pics:




if touch up is my best bet then i will do it, since most are down to primer i figure its a must, and a few are starting to rust...i just thought maybe there was some magic secret product out there maybe you detailers knew about...guess its either touch up (and look wack), respray(and pay), carbon fiber(hood pins yuck), or eat it and embrace a chipped up rust hood till i find a replacement.
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i find whipping it out as soon as possible gets rid of that gray area that leads to the "friend zone". but thats just my experience. your results may vary
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:21 PM   #12
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well
there is a secret, you touch it up and have a detailer buff it all flat and it'll look half decent, and get rid of some of those scratches I see
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:31 PM   #13
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yeah the scratches are minor compared to the chipping, thats what really makes me sad
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i find whipping it out as soon as possible gets rid of that gray area that leads to the "friend zone". but thats just my experience. your results may vary
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:39 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Marino. View Post
My car has a ****load of swirls, and bird**** stains. I think the only way to get stuff like that out is to use a strong compound or even claybar. I tried some compound on the bird****, but it didn't really help.
do not do that compound will make it worse, and clay will just add little tiny scraches. the only way to get rid of swerl marks is to buff it with a foam pad and swerl removeing wax
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:50 PM   #15
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do not do that compound will make it worse, and clay will just add little tiny scraches. the only way to get rid of swerl marks is to buff it with a foam pad and swerl removeing wax
Let me correct this.

Compounding won't make it worse, it will look worse because the compound needs to be followed by a polish/leveler and then waxed. When you just compound it, you can notice the difference in the finish because the compound alters the finish to correct it (by removing a thin layer)

Clay bar will not add tiny scratches unless dirt is in the bar itself, which if dropped/used too many times it should be discarded anyway. The tiny "scratches" you may see is simply the clay trails that again need to be followed by a compound/polish/leveler to fully correct the steps. People treat compounding and clay barring as a one and done process all too many times which leaves a poor end result. Rather, compound and clay are STEPS to paint correction, not paint correction all in one.
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by agoodall View Post
yeah the scratches are minor compared to the chipping, thats what really makes me sad
I agree, I have one minor chip in my hood and it's barely noticeable but it bothers me

You honestly may be able to get away with touching it up and then having it buffed by someone who knows what they're doing. Like I said before, cleaning it and sealing it for the mean time will help prevent rust from occuring. If there is rust already noticeable then it's past the touch up stage and will need to be sanded/refinished
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:05 PM   #17
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I feel your pain, man. I have a black car with tons of swirls.
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:44 PM   #18
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Check out this guys work
Before

After

Full thread with lots of pics
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=527391
He has posted a few cars so search for his other posts.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:51 PM   #19
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**** all ya'll niggaS!!!!! jackin my thread and ****! lol jp

But nah i appreciate the input
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:47 PM   #20
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Just out of curiosity, what kinda black car does your buddy have?
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