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#1 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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SR20 - Won't start after cutout, need help asap
The hazards work, the clock works, I tried to jumpstart it but it won't start. Turn signals don't work, no turning over, no clicking from a relay. When I open the door though with the key in the ignition the alarm for open door goes off... We looked at all the fuses and they are fine, all the connections are fine and basically re-grounded the entire engine (a bunch were loose). No engine problems at all and when we tried to do a pop start it sounded like it started going but it never actually started and just died again. It basically got no spark. Any ideas on what to look for? I'm no SR guru so I thought I'd ask the masses.
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#2 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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damn that's weird as hell, alternator, starter, losse connection man thats a hard one to pin point it could be one or not cause some you would still have power others you would not il run this by some of my friends and see what they have to say.
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#3 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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I kept looking and found a blown ignition relay - let's see if this works.... Going out to buy one now. If its this simple I swear to god....
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#4 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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replaced the ignition fuse and everything works as it should except the car won't crank - the fans cut out when we try to crank it and when we let off the ignition they start up again.
We tried jump starting it and still nothing. Blown starter?
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#5 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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Bumping this one last time so if someone has the same issue they know what it is.
Blown Ignition Relay will make everything shut off. Makes sense too since hazards and open door alarm are on a different circuit and they will go off because the turbotimer kept the car technically "on" after I took the key out. Turns out the reason why it didn't start afterwards is because the batter voltage was low (when we connected it to another batter it wouldn't go above 12 and seperate it was at 10 volts... yeah, stupid low). Trying to charge battery now, should do the trick.
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