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Old 09-12-2011, 08:41 PM   #1
DPancoast
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**not just a HG anymore** Research/Questions. B20 HG on B18B1 block/head content

Hey d00dz and ladiez. My Teg headgasket decided to start giving up, so I'm researching and pricing out parts.

My car is an LS block that has been bored and sleeved by benson/laskey racing to a 2.0L. I've come to the confident conclusion that it puts me at an 84mm bore. With that said, the previous owner of the motor had an oem gasket bored to a 2.0. I'm hoping/guessing it was a golden eagle piece but if not, oh well it's too late now lol.

So anyway. I am having trouble figuring out what head gasket to get. I have some choices

- get a golden eagle piece. oem quality bored out to 84mm
- get a cometic metal piece... not preferred. all integra threads say bad news bears/hit or miss.
- get something super expensive like hks... no thanks

Or my final option that I am trying to confirm. Get a factory B20 headgasket that from the factory has an 84mm bore. I'd love to since it seems they can handle much more power than I will ever have.

But my question is. Can anyone confirm FOR SURE that the B20 head gasket will mate up to my B18B1 non-vtec block and head.

Just worried about oil and coolant passages and can't afford to have it not fit and have to wait for another gasket to come in.

Maybe even someone has a part number or application I can use to order from the dealer (through my gf at wholesale price lol)

And lastly. Is anyone good at doing valve lash on a Honda? Would love for some help on the reinstall
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:16 PM
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:17 PM   #2
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I have the tool to do it. Makes doing it retard proof.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:34 PM   #3
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That would be awesome. Gonna be doing the job next week in chalfont if you'd be able to make it down our way or if we could borrow it. Whatever is easier. I could give you moniez as collateral or whatever
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Old 10-07-2011, 12:57 AM   #4
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well it is very easy to put a ls head on a b20 block so with that being said the passages are the same, as far as gasket, honda oem is the best way to go and before u purchase anything get a caliper and measure the cylinder to confirm 84mm, u can get one at harbor freight digital for 9.99 i have a cheap one and one i bought from snap on and they are both just as accurate.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:22 PM   #5
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Buy a headgasket for a 1997-2001 CRV as long as the block is a 2.0L. I ususally use oem or Cometic. If your worried about blowing it out again consider head studs too.
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:24 PM   #6
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yeah might as well do arp studs while you're in there if they aren't already. definitely measure to make sure instead of finding out later it's not 84mm.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:54 AM   #7
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I cant confirm, but you should go and look on the differences between B20/b18b blocks and heads. I dont think theres an important difference seeing as you can bolt P75 and PR4 heads on basically any non vtec bottom end. I've got a PR4 head on a PR4 block with a P75 head gasket (84mm GE) and i have not had any problems.

Valve lash is one of the easiest things to do. Check Team Integra.

Also go golden Eagle. Never heard of issues from them and tons from cometic.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:00 PM   #8
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alright so my friends matt and aaron worked in the rain to throw my car back together all nice and pretty and within a month, the gasket is blown again.




turns out it wasn't copper sprayed... among other things. so apart it will come again I suppose and I'll send the head to get checked out. hopefully we can get it right this time lol
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:27 PM   #9
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What gasket did you use? Head studs torque?
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:06 PM   #10
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Arp head studs. 80ftlbs or whatever the unit is.

Oem crv b20 headgasket
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:36 AM   #11
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They need to be torqued no more then 70. And in steps. 25, 50, 70
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:49 PM   #12
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Yeah steps were used but I guess too much torque in the end.

Poop haha. Well this time around all should be well
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:45 AM   #13
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Negative, ARP has updated it's torque specs to 82ft/lbs.
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Relax, bud. When the dude with a drag Honda and a boosted daily that has had fast Honda's for years AND fabs his own parts tells the new kids on the block that they're doing it wrong, it's time to step back and learn something.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:33 PM   #14
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http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/208-4303.pdf

Since eventually someone will ask me for my credentials.
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Relax, bud. When the dude with a drag Honda and a boosted daily that has had fast Honda's for years AND fabs his own parts tells the new kids on the block that they're doing it wrong, it's time to step back and learn something.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:41 PM   #15
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Interesting. Thanks Aaron. I was looking but couldnt find it.

Well at least that answers one possibility.

Some say I should get a new set of headstuds... thoughts?
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:49 PM   #16
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i would say measure all of them and see if they are stretched
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:29 AM   #17
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ARP headstuds should be good for torquing quite a few times before replacment
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:15 PM   #18
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Ok. The car is at my friend Matt's house. Might be apart, might not lol. Waiting for a car back.

The car doesn't idle by any means at this point. So it's def more broked than last time probably.

Trying to decide on doing another b20 headgasket or getting a GE instead.

Dunno tho. If there isn't anything obvious when the head comes off, I may pull the entire motor and send the block and head to the machine shop for them to look over and test.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:54 PM   #19
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Found (thanks to Matt as always) that it's not the headgasket this time. metal shavings in 3 of 4 exhaust ports on the head, scoring in cylinder 4, and some other minor issues (lol?). put in a message to automotive and industrial machining in Souderton. We'll see what their rates and turnaround times are. gonna try and get pics of the damage tomorrow and pull the piston from cylinder 4. turbo seems unhurt (thankfully) so far. Not sure what brought this on so suddenly. tune (timing) and other things are on the question board.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:39 PM   #20
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Foreign object?
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