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ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 12:25 PM

Well i decided to tuck some wires and remove some emission things. It idles around 300RPMS, ****ty throttle response, and i make boost in nuetral. I only unplugged sensors, how could this happen? The sensors on my thermastat look bad, i broke one and had to rewire it. Could them sensors make all this happen?

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 12:50 PM

Sounds like the sensor you broke was your coolant temperature sensor. If it is broke the car won't know how much fuel to give the motor and end up dumping in way too much, causing all the symptoms you described. Does the car run better once it warms up fully?

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

Sounds like the sensor you broke was your coolant temperature sensor. If it is broke the car won't know how much fuel to give the motor and end up dumping in way too much, causing all the symptoms you described. Does the car run better once it warms up fully?

Thats what i was thinking but it wouldn't make me build boost in nuetral? I really don't want to let it run for more then a min. Heres a video of boost in nuetral. I will try letting it warm up and see. Thanks
http://s365.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=101_0228.flv

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 01:10 PM

Yes, you would build boost in neutral due to the excess fuel combusting in the manifold/turbine housing causing the turbine to spin.

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

Yes, you would build boost in neutral due to the excess fuel combusting in the manifold/turbine housing causing the turbine to spin.

Thanks very much...I do have a engine light, do you know the easiest way to check for codes.

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 01:29 PM

If you don't have a data logger or DSMLink, the easiest way is to use light/buzzer.

http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBau...ical/code.html

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

If you don't have a data logger or DSMLink, the easiest way is to use light/buzzer.

http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBau...ical/code.html

I have a little night light that plugs into the wall. I could use this? Thanks for all your help

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 01:40 PM

No, unfortunately not. That light is not intended for 12V DC. You can go to Autozone and pick up just about any automotive light and it will work fine and cost less than $2.

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 01:45 PM

Cool thanks again

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 04:26 PM

Well i tried it with the light and it doesn't do anything.

Renegade_ · 11-04-2008, 04:31 PM

Is it stupid rich?

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 04:56 PM

If you can't get the light diagnostic to work you can get it scanned at Autozone for free, just ask them at the counter.

For reference, the coolant temperature sensor is the bottom plug on the last picture you posted. If you just got the CEL after the wire tuck, and that is the one you broke/rewired, chances are that is the problem.

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

If you can't get the light diagnostic to work you can get it scanned at Autozone for free, just ask them at the counter.

For reference, the coolant temperature sensor is the bottom plug on the last picture you posted. If you just got the CEL after the wire tuck, and that is the one you broke/rewired, chances are that is the problem.

Yeh i tried and they only have the things for 96 and up.

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 05:21 PM

Unless you have a friend with a scan tool/logger/DSMLink, there are no other ways to check codes. Are you sure you did the light test correctly using pin 1 for your 12V source and pin 12 for your ground?

Edit: To add, make sure your ignition is in the 'ON' position while trying to do the diagnostic test.

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

Unless you have a friend with a scan tool/logger/DSMLink, there are no other ways to check codes. Are you sure you did the light test correctly using pin 1 for your 12V source and pin 12 for your ground?

Im pretty sure...I wrapped them around the pins. When i start the car it takes about a min. for the engine light to go on.
Yeh i had it "on"

I can use speaker wire correct? Do i have to show them through the back

BlackTalon95 · 11-04-2008, 05:38 PM

Here is how I do the test in my words, maybe you'll see something you missed:

1) Turn the car completely off
2) Remove fuse cover from drivers side kick panel fuse box
3) Turn the car ignition to the 'ON' postion
4) Wait 10 seconds
5) Connect positive connection of light to pin 1
6) Connect negative connection of light to pin 12
7) Count long/short blinks of light

You can also use a voltmeter if you have one, but I think the light is easier. Yes, speaker wire will work fine.

ForcedInduction · 11-04-2008, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackTalon95

Here is how I do the test in my words, maybe you'll see something you missed:

1) Turn the car completely off
2) Remove fuse cover from drivers side kick panel fuse box
3) Turn the car ignition to the 'ON' postion
4) Wait 10 seconds
5) Connect positive connection of light to pin 1
6) Connect negative connection of light to pin 12
7) Count long/short blinks of light

You can also use a voltmeter if you have one, but I think the light is easier. Yes, speaker wire will work fine.

K thanks i will try soon.

11-04-2008, 12:25 PM	#1
ForcedInduction Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Feb 2006 Member #1525 iTrader: (1)	DSM Help Well i decided to tuck some wires and remove some emission things. It idles around 300RPMS, ****ty throttle response, and i make boost in nuetral. I only unplugged sensors, how could this happen? The sensors on my thermastat look bad, i broke one and had to rewire it. Could them sensors make all this happen?

11-04-2008, 05:21 PM	#14
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	Unless you have a friend with a scan tool/logger/DSMLink, there are no other ways to check codes. Are you sure you did the light test correctly using pin 1 for your 12V source and pin 12 for your ground? Edit: To add, make sure your ignition is in the 'ON' position while trying to do the diagnostic test. Last edited by BlackTalon95; 11-04-2008 at 05:24 PM.

11-04-2008, 12:50 PM	#2
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	Sounds like the sensor you broke was your coolant temperature sensor. If it is broke the car won't know how much fuel to give the motor and end up dumping in way too much, causing all the symptoms you described. Does the car run better once it warms up fully?

11-04-2008, 01:10 PM	#4
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	Yes, you would build boost in neutral due to the excess fuel combusting in the manifold/turbine housing causing the turbine to spin.

11-04-2008, 01:29 PM	#6
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	If you don't have a data logger or DSMLink, the easiest way is to use light/buzzer. http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBau...ical/code.html

11-04-2008, 01:40 PM	#8
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	No, unfortunately not. That light is not intended for 12V DC. You can go to Autozone and pick up just about any automotive light and it will work fine and cost less than $2.

11-04-2008, 01:45 PM	#9
ForcedInduction Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Feb 2006 Member #1525 iTrader: (1)	Cool thanks again

11-04-2008, 04:26 PM	#10
ForcedInduction Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Feb 2006 Member #1525 iTrader: (1)	Well i tried it with the light and it doesn't do anything.

11-04-2008, 04:31 PM	#11
Renegade_ Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: May 2006 Location: NNJ/NYC Member #1912 My Ride: 1J Swaggon iTrader: (2)	Is it stupid rich?

11-04-2008, 04:56 PM	#12
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	If you can't get the light diagnostic to work you can get it scanned at Autozone for free, just ask them at the counter. For reference, the coolant temperature sensor is the bottom plug on the last picture you posted. If you just got the CEL after the wire tuck, and that is the one you broke/rewired, chances are that is the problem.

11-04-2008, 05:38 PM	#16
BlackTalon95 Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Whitehall/Philadelphia, PA Member #9253 My Ride: 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD iTrader: (1)	Here is how I do the test in my words, maybe you'll see something you missed: 1) Turn the car completely off 2) Remove fuse cover from drivers side kick panel fuse box 3) Turn the car ignition to the 'ON' postion 4) Wait 10 seconds 5) Connect positive connection of light to pin 1 6) Connect negative connection of light to pin 12 7) Count long/short blinks of light You can also use a voltmeter if you have one, but I think the light is easier. Yes, speaker wire will work fine.