camber caster toe settings for S14!!

[iloveturbolag]

i am aligning my set up tomarow and just wanted some input on what settings people sujested. its a 95 240sx with sr20. it has cusco coilovers with factory wheels. 185 front, 195 rear. car is daily driven but will be autox'd as well.
so far im thinking -1.75 camber in front, -.75 camber rear.
factory specs for caster and toe.
thanks guys and i need help FAST!!

[jdm free]

i would just go factory specs all around since winter is coming and there arent many auto-x events. then just realign in the summer

[Ace]

Factory wheels? Lowered?

Run as much caster as you can in the front...which Is not adjustable with stock parts.

For camber, run 1-2 in the front, and the same for the rear.

As far as toe is concerned, I zero out the front, and add a little toe in in the rear (better high speed stability), but that too isn't adjustable with stock parts.

I've I could suggest any of the following parts at a minimum to get proper alignment

SPL Rear Upper Control Arms (rear camber)
SPL Front Tension Arms (Front caster)
SPL or SPC Rear Tension Arms (rear toe)

If you beat on your car, and it's lowered, you can bank on the front tension arms failing at one point or another...they will begin to goo like this:

[OutToWinPAHC]

Im not a fan of negative camber in the rear. With IRS when the car torques and squats you loose some tire contact with the ground.

Oh and tension rods I used an energy suspension kit. I had to burn the old ones out, but the new bushing kit is nice.

You want this [] [] not // \\ on squat

[thefro526]

Like outtowinpahc said, in cars with independent rear suspension the rear end tends to squat under hard acceleration like that experienced in drag racing which causes you to gain negative camber. But in auto and drifting you want a certain degree of negative camber because as you put the car into the turn and the car leans the contact patch is actually larger which gives you more predictable grip. It's really a toss up with suspension settings, you can have one setup that will be amazing at everything so, decide on exactly what you want to make your car for and go from there.

One of the big things about s-chassis cars is that it's cool to run a lot of camber like more than 3 degrees which is totally pointless unless you want to run huge tires and that's the only way they fit. IIRC, S13's and maybe S14's run about 1-1.5 degrees of camber stock so that's a good place to start and work from there. If this is your DD I would keep the toe pretty neutral just for the sake of tire wear. Contrary to popular belief in the 240sx world, toe is what really wears out your tires not camber.