Best way to remove rotted bolts - TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast

Spooly-T · 09-12-2005, 03:44 AM

http://home.comcast.net/~spooly-t/NEW/Rotbolt.JPG

Bolt and flange has became one... Suckers wont budge..

sockets kept slipping off the bolt... They should be metric, but seem to be more standard sizes, further, those two bolts seems to be different sizes also..

A friend suggested heating them up w/ torch. Would that work?

**TROLL** · 09-12-2005, 04:31 AM

use PB blaster or whatever its called and let it soak for at least a half hour or so before giving it another shot. the torch thing is only good if you can heat up the flange and keep the bolt cool... the heat will make the flange expand and help the bolt to come out easier.
whatever socket you use, make sure it is very snug so you dont round off the head of the bolt and create an entirely new problem.
good luck!
bryan

Spooly-T · 09-12-2005, 05:23 AM

I was wrestling with the differential all nite and that pretty much drained me. My neck was killing me!! I'm gonna give it another shot in the afternoon.

The last bolt that is holding the diff in, is being block by cat-back so it was little frustrating to have to stop the progress.

The torch thing might work for Locktite'ed bolts, maybe not in this situation.

I think it's time to invest in some air tools too...

JoeScooby · 09-12-2005, 05:27 AM

While taking off my mid pipe I enjoyed the company of a seized bolt. I tried PB blaster, wd40, torch, impact wrench. Took me about 5 hours and all I had was a busted up hand. My pops came up to me and said, "Oh, I have a rotozip" 2 seconds to grind it apart. I went out and baught one that day. Not to expensive, comes in real handy. Wont help you very much, but you can pick up some cheap air tools from walmart though.

Spooly-T · 09-12-2005, 05:42 AM

Did you grind off the bolt? Cut the pipe off? or grind the rot off the flange/bolt?

JoeScooby · 09-12-2005, 05:57 AM

didnt write that... duh. I grinded the bolt off then sliped the pipe out.

the mike · 09-12-2005, 09:51 AM

Unfortunately cutting the bolt off is usually the easiest(and sometimes the only) way.

I bought a cheap cut off wheel at Home Depot, but you could use a grinder with a 4.5" wheel.

SexyDSM95 · 09-12-2005, 10:05 AM

Did you guys totally forget about leverage? A.K.A. a nice 6ft pipe to put on the end of a 1/2" ratchet (or a breaker bar)? If soaking it with PB Blast doesn't work along with a torch and some leverage then I would suggest cutting it.

teh DIRT · 09-12-2005, 10:14 AM

leverage doesnt exist under a car.

sisforsurfing · 09-12-2005, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TROLL

whatever socket you use, make sure it is very snug so you dont round off the head of the bolt and create an entirely new problem.

I did that on mine, no fun. So it's time for the Sawzall, that's the only recomendation I have if it's being really difficult.

the mike · 09-12-2005, 10:43 AM

You might also be able to hammer on a socket that is "just too small" to get it to fit without slipping.

Save yourself the headache though and grind/cut it.

FeeJ · 09-12-2005, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teh DIRT

leverage doesnt exist under a car.

it does with the biggest breaker bar you can fit and a heavy sledge hammer

2point4DSM · 09-13-2005, 11:33 AM

Just about every exhaust shop will put a cutting torch to it and melt the bolt. I've tried, with varying success, using an air chisel, cutoff wheel, impact sockets with a strong gun, and sawzall.

One of these days I'm going to have to get a cutting torch....

SexyDSM95 · 09-13-2005, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teh DIRT

leverage doesnt exist under a car.

Wow....I officially de-nounce you as the TST mechanic...it sure as hell does! You just have to be creative about it.

I would also suggest using a 6pt socket instead of those crapsmans 12pt. The 6 pt will give you a better grip on the bolt while the 12 pt. may strip it. I found this out the hard way on my brake calipers

teh DIRT · 09-13-2005, 12:34 PM

denounce all you want. when your under a lowered car while using a ****ty jack.....clearance doesnt exist. or when you working on parts around/above driveshafts and other things.
-pete

SexyDSM95 · 09-13-2005, 02:25 PM

....I know for a fact it does

Especially when pulling an axle and exhaust from a lowered GSX with the driveshaft, LSD, and the $20 PepBoys jack. Just have to be creative Petey Wetey.

Jeffros Spec V · 09-13-2005, 04:57 PM

I would just put a torch on it and heat it up real real real good. Whoever said just the flange is wrong. Have you ever seen somebody just heat the flange? Heat everthing, as everything will expand and if you used WD40 it should come right out.

Using a 6 point socket is better than using a 12 point at this stage, and if you do round it off get yourself some craftsman stripped bolt remover, basically a socket with razor blades on it.

Chair-Force · 09-16-2005, 02:02 AM

I would have just took an air wizard to it and cut away.

09-12-2005, 03:44 AM	#1
Spooly-T Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NJ Member #510 iTrader: (0)	Best way to remove rotted bolts http://home.comcast.net/~spooly-t/NEW/Rotbolt.JPG Bolt and flange has became one... Suckers wont budge.. sockets kept slipping off the bolt... They should be metric, but seem to be more standard sizes, further, those two bolts seems to be different sizes also.. A friend suggested heating them up w/ torch. Would that work?

09-12-2005, 05:27 AM	#4
JoeScooby Tri-State Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill Member #345 My Ride: 2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan iTrader: (0)	While taking off my mid pipe I enjoyed the company of a seized bolt. I tried PB blaster, wd40, torch, impact wrench. Took me about 5 hours and all I had was a busted up hand. My pops came up to me and said, "Oh, I have a rotozip" 2 seconds to grind it apart. I went out and baught one that day. Not to expensive, comes in real handy. Wont help you very much, but you can pick up some cheap air tools from walmart though. __________________ 2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast 2004 Java WRX - SOLD 2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife 2014 Outback 2014 STi Hatch 2013 Yukon SLT Last edited by JoeScooby; 09-12-2005 at 05:35 AM.

09-12-2005, 05:57 AM	#6
JoeScooby Tri-State Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill Member #345 My Ride: 2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan iTrader: (0)	didnt write that... duh. I grinded the bolt off then sliped the pipe out. __________________ 2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast 2004 Java WRX - SOLD 2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife 2014 Outback 2014 STi Hatch 2013 Yukon SLT

09-12-2005, 09:51 AM	#7
the mike TST Ruined My Life! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: 08075 Member #19 My Ride: 1991 Toyota Previa!!! iTrader: (1)	Unfortunately cutting the bolt off is usually the easiest(and sometimes the only) way. I bought a cheap cut off wheel at Home Depot, but you could use a grinder with a 4.5" wheel. __________________ My speed is only limited by my grip. Offramp Touge.

09-12-2005, 10:43 AM	#11
the mike TST Ruined My Life! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: 08075 Member #19 My Ride: 1991 Toyota Previa!!! iTrader: (1)	You might also be able to hammer on a socket that is "just too small" to get it to fit without slipping. Save yourself the headache though and grind/cut it. __________________ My speed is only limited by my grip. Offramp Touge.

09-12-2005, 05:23 AM	#3
Spooly-T Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NJ Member #510 iTrader: (0)	I was wrestling with the differential all nite and that pretty much drained me. My neck was killing me!! I'm gonna give it another shot in the afternoon. The last bolt that is holding the diff in, is being block by cat-back so it was little frustrating to have to stop the progress. The torch thing might work for Locktite'ed bolts, maybe not in this situation. I think it's time to invest in some air tools too...

09-12-2005, 05:42 AM	#5
Spooly-T Tri-State Training Wheels Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NJ Member #510 iTrader: (0)	Did you grind off the bolt? Cut the pipe off? or grind the rot off the flange/bolt?

09-12-2005, 10:05 AM	#8
SexyDSM95 Tri-State Post Whore Banned Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Glenside, PA Member #188 iTrader: (1)	Did you guys totally forget about leverage? A.K.A. a nice 6ft pipe to put on the end of a 1/2" ratchet (or a breaker bar)? If soaking it with PB Blast doesn't work along with a torch and some leverage then I would suggest cutting it.

09-13-2005, 11:33 AM	#13
2point4DSM Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Jun 2005 Member #505 My Ride: 08 Sienna Limited AWD, 07 John Deere riding mower, 03 Honda Pilot, 92 GSX iTrader: (0)	Just about every exhaust shop will put a cutting torch to it and melt the bolt. I've tried, with varying success, using an air chisel, cutoff wheel, impact sockets with a strong gun, and sawzall. One of these days I'm going to have to get a cutting torch.... __________________ - Wil 08 Sienna, limited AWD w/ laser guided cruise control, FTMFW!

09-13-2005, 02:25 PM	#16
SexyDSM95 Tri-State Post Whore Banned Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Glenside, PA Member #188 iTrader: (1)	....I know for a fact it does Especially when pulling an axle and exhaust from a lowered GSX with the driveshaft, LSD, and the $20 PepBoys jack. Just have to be creative Petey Wetey.

09-13-2005, 04:57 PM	#17
Jeffros Spec V Tri-State Post Whore Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Langhorne PA Member #263 iTrader: (0)	I would just put a torch on it and heat it up real real real good. Whoever said just the flange is wrong. Have you ever seen somebody just heat the flange? Heat everthing, as everything will expand and if you used WD40 it should come right out. Using a 6 point socket is better than using a 12 point at this stage, and if you do round it off get yourself some craftsman stripped bolt remover, basically a socket with razor blades on it.

09-16-2005, 02:02 AM	#18
Chair-Force Tri-State Addict Banned Join Date: Mar 2005 Member #278 My Ride: yo st8 driftin, b. iTrader: (0)	I would have just took an air wizard to it and cut away.

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