Critique my Setup Please

[awdturbo]

I recently bought this and havent done thing with it Except DSMLink and now lookin for a 2g or 3g mas setup. (Anyone selling one?) I know i need a driverside axle and i think the gauges arent working to well. I was wondering if this setup is good for a Daily Driven car. The clutch is tiring after awhile so i might just beat this one up and then switch to a act 2600 instead. I think this wastegate should be good but i've had experiances with Tial and never had a problem. I dont quite like the blow off valve b/c i feel is create a surge in the car once its spooling and let off. So if anyone has any ideas or helpful tips please chime in. Keep all negative comments please. Thanks

Fully built motor with 1100 mls on it.: Eagle/Ross .30 over 8.5-1.- ARP head, rods, main bolts stainless stock valves.Cometic 4 layer H/gasket. Crower Springs/retainers. FP 2X cams. 750 CC inj. Aeromotive FPR. Walbro 255.

Drivetrain: B/new Fidanza Flywheel, B/New ACT 2900 Clutch. 4 bolt rear. 4WS Eliminated. 3rd Gen RX-7 Wheels painted Gold and clear coated. Evo 8 supension with Tien springs.-SS brake lines. Cross drilled rotors-Hawk pads.

Turbo/intercooler: SCM 61 Turbo, HKS 40 mm External W/gate. Indy Street Core 24x8x3.5. Greddy bov Type R. Hallman in ****pit Boost controller.

Electonics: SAFC-1. GM MAF w/ Translator ( blow thru style) EGT gauge. Boost gauge (35 psi)

[turbo4g63]

well, the car sounds like a beast. Depending on the tune that you have, and the clutch setup will vary drivability. If you go act2600 w/ a street disk w/ a decent street tune, yea the car can be driven daily. But a setup with a really agressive tune and a puck style clutch, whether it be 4 or 6 puck..their is the possibility of making the car much less driveable, more rough, and the ever increased risk of finding the weak link and breaking it

[enigma]

If its a DD, ditch the cross drilled rotors. Hell, if its a driver ditch the cross drill's, and go with slotted. Cross drilled rotors have a nasty habit of developing microfractures which can make the rotor break apart.

[awdturbo]

its cross drilled and slotted. But ya i thought that too. Thanks though

Turbo4g63 thanks for the input thats a good thought.

[TrboChicsRock]

I would definitely go with the 2G or 3G mas setup like you said. I run an Evo 8 mas. You'll just need the connector to go with it, which you can get on any 2001+ Mitsu I believe.

You have Evo 8 suspension? Is that even possible?

[turbo4g63]

Originally Posted by TrboChicsRock

You have Evo 8 suspension? Is that even possible?

i had the same thought.

[awdturbo]

ya i looked at it and its there. The bolts that connect to the lca's is a different size so there it a hair of play. im planning on gettin suspension for a gvr4 once i get it up and running. right now dsmlink has been screwing me for months.

[Hans_GZP]

A lot of gvr4 owners use evo8 suspension components as they are an upgrade to the stock gvr4 components. You can use pretty much the entire suspension setup from an evo8 on a gvr4... so it would work on a 1g dsm as well.

I'm not a huge fan of the gm maf-t's... I would definitely switch it out with an evo maf if you are going with the dsmlink. Good luck with the setup, it sounds pretty nasty.

[awdturbo]

ok another question i have is, what are the min and max boost levels i can run with this setup and what is a consertitive level of psi and what numbers am i lookin to be putting out?

[Hans_GZP]

On pump gas, with the right tune, you should be able to run around 25 psi. That would probably make you around high 300's, low 400's to the wheels.

Minimum boost levels would be whatever the wastegate is set at. The wastegate spring in there is set to open at a set pressure... you can change the spring to increase or decrease the minimum amount of boost allowed.