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Old 05-18-2010, 02:18 PM   #1
nhanxsolo
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experiences a 4-5 second lag when turning the key to start the car

I've had the car for almost a year and everytime it would start up quick and perfectly without any weird noises or delay. Recently, my alternator went bad and I just replaced it. Now I would have to hold the key all the way to the right (on position) for about 4 seconds until it starts to sputter and then start up. (Not sure if the alternator and this start up problem is related)

Any idea what may be wrong? This morning the car did the same thing when I went to start it up, only it died a second later and I had to start it up again, then the CEL flashed for about 10 seconds then became a steady light. Car runs fine, and it gets power to the radio/dash/windows perfectly, but on start up it's really flakey and I'm worried I'll be stranded somewhere.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:21 PM   #2
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Rough Running At Idle: MAF, Ignition Coil, Spark Plug, VAC Leak, O2 Sensor, TB, CTS
Missfires under Boost Flashing CEL: Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs
Running Rich: Boost Leak, MAF, O2 Sensor, Coolant Temp Sensor
Running Lean: VAC Leak, MAF, O2 Sensor, Fuel Filter
Low Boost: Limp Mode, MBC, BOV, DV, Boost Leak, N75
High Boost: MBC Setting, N75, Spark Plugs, Ignition Coils
Cold Start Problems: MAF, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump Relay, CTS
Poor Gas Mileage: MAF, CTS, O2 Sensor, AIT Sensor
Cat Efficiency Below Threshold: Down pipe, CAT, Rear O2, RACE FUEL
No Start: Battery - ECU, Fuel Pump Relay, Ground
Start For 1 Second Stall: Immobilizer
Overheating: Waterpump, Thermostat, Head Gasket
Oil in coolant: Oil Cooler, head Gasket, Water Wetter
Dies While Driving: Timing belt, Boost Leak, MISC
Shorts To ground CEL: Fuel Pump Relay, Bad Grounds
Oil in your IC/IC piping: Check your PCV system

id probably check the things under cold start/running rough at idle.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:48 PM   #3
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Thanks man, I replaced spark plugs 2 months ago, just swapped in coils few days ago, changed the CTS a month ago. I know there is a boost leak but its always been there and can't see how its affecting it this badly now.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:55 PM   #4
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doubt its that, wouldnt be maf unless your CEL is on along with the ESC light on as well just above it. dont think it would really cause those problems, as mine only had me run in limp mode ::shrug:: are your plugs grapped right (i assume so, but just have to check)? i guess all i can say is just check over the stuff that you haven't already lol..
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Old 05-18-2010, 04:11 PM   #5
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Yup spark plugs gapped to chipped gap .028. I guess I just need to scan to see what the CEL says... ughh
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:43 PM   #6
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So drove car somewhere today and when I went out it wouldn't start... had to pop the clutch to get it to start, and it started up fine after I drove it home... wtfffff ignition coils are fine, changed the alternator a week ago and the battery is good. What else could be wrong?
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:01 AM   #7
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Doesn't start how? Won't even crank? Has to be electrical then. Possibly starter going bad? Is the vehicle still hot when you try to start?
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbirgl View Post
Doesn't start how? Won't even crank? Has to be electrical then. Possibly starter going bad? Is the vehicle still hot when you try to start?


Yes. I drove it for about 30 mins on the highway to get to where I was going. Went inside for about 20 mins, came back out and wouldn't start. Popped the clutch to get it started and it started fine the rest of the day. The past few days it has had problems with a delay to get cranking.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:40 PM   #9
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Still not clear does it crank over or just click?
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:04 PM   #10
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something is probably wrong with the starter.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbirgl View Post
Still not clear does it crank over or just click?
Well the past few days, I had to hold the key to the on position for about 4 seconds until it starts cranking then it would start up.

Yesterday it wouldn't crank or click at all... the radio still worked fine while it wouldn't start.

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something is probably wrong with the starter.
I will get it scanned today by an odb2... wish I had vagcom.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:26 PM   #12
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Sounds like starter issue or ignition switch starting to go bad. ignition switch is the more common of the 2...
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbirgl View Post
Sounds like starter issue or ignition switch starting to go bad. ignition switch is the more common of the 2...
thanks again Chris for all of your advice... I went out to start it this afternoon... started up perfectly, the CEL went away so i cant get it scanned... lol I hate vws.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:36 PM   #14
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You can still get it scanned, the faults will still be in there. They will just be classified as a stored/intermitent/sporadic/pending fault. They are almost certainly just going to be a bunch of sporadic random misfire faults, since you said the MIL was flashing(indicates misfire). Have you had the coil recall done out of curiosity? As for the starting problem, my money is on the ignition switch, possibly the starter, but it could really be anything. My car used to do something similar where I would get a sporadic no crank/no start, I replaced everything mentioned above and more and finally ended up having to run all new wires before I got it fixed.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmtuner View Post
You can still get it scanned, the faults will still be in there. They will just be classified as a stored/intermitent/sporadic/pending fault. They are almost certainly just going to be a bunch of sporadic random misfire faults, since you said the MIL was flashing(indicates misfire). Have you had the coil recall done out of curiosity? As for the starting problem, my money is on the ignition switch, possibly the starter, but it could really be anything. My car used to do something similar where I would get a sporadic no crank/no start, I replaced everything mentioned above and more and finally ended up having to run all new wires before I got it fixed.
Thanks man, I will start with the ignition switch... then the starter. What kind of wires were you talking about?? im guessing the ignition coil harness is one of them right? where would I get these wires outside from the dealership.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:06 PM   #16
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20 squared has it iirc. it was $50. i had to get it since a coil pack fried mine, so i went to bolt downs as well..
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
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20 squared has it iirc. it was $50. i had to get it since a coil pack fried mine, so i went to bolt downs as well..
Alright, I just ordered an ignition switch from GAP... I will let you guys know how that goes, then I will replace the harness since it looks pretty haggared, then the starter since its the most expensive.

btw I just spent like an hour trying to pop the clutch on my car to drive a chick home, me trying to push it in this weather and her trying to use the cluth = pain in the ass! luckily some guy helped me push and I was able to pop the clutch and get it started... as of right now it starts up perfectly, I know if I let it sit for a few hours it's not gonna wanna start again though.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:49 PM   #18
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The wires I had to rewire was the ones for the starter circuit, from switch to relay, from relay to starter solenoid. It wasn't really that bad actually, just frustraing that it came to that. Anyway I hope you figure it out and if you need any help feel free to pm me, I am a VW tech so I can ussually help you out with most things.
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:10 PM   #19
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So FINALLY got around to replacing the ignition switch after a month lol (I just bought a bike and has had no need to drive the car so it sat there). I thought I needed to take the steering wheel off because of some idiot and his DIY but I didn't.. just made it a hassle and took up a lot more time than necessary. So I had to jump it because the battery was almost dead and then it started up fine... it runs really different though, I think its because it sat so long. I can't hear it idling anymore (full turboback exhaust), also feels very underpowered during acceleration, like the turbo doesn't do much. This may just be a psychological thing since I'm used to riding on a bike with a real loud engine now... but IDK... def feels different. I hope the ignition key was the problem and it starts up fine long after today.
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:30 PM   #20
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Hearing differences are probably not related to the ignition switch, but hopefully that takes care of the issue. Let us know!
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