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#1 |
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Tri-State Aficionado
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about subs, speaker, amps
so everything is labeled in WATTS from what i see... do i add up the amp + radio + each speaker to get total WATTS? what would be enough WATTS to hear on a boat? what makes speakers able to get super load... not like a sub... what makes it super loud to play music the amp?
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Tuned by: Evil Intentions Tuning Buschur Racing + Forced Performance = One Street Sweeper
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#2 | |
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Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Montgomery county
Member #2176
My Ride: 97 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Spyder AWD iTrader: (3)
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Quote:
Power (watts) make things loud. Choose your radio 1st. You can choose a marine radio or a basic radio with a marine enclosure to keep things dry. If your going to run a 4 channel amp to power the speakers, for stereo sound, pick up a radio capable of doing so. This means you want the radio to have Front and rear RCA outputs on the rear of the radio. You will find some with 6 outputs on the back which would be for Front, Rear, and subwoofer. It wouldn't hurt to go full scale here...you may want to add a sub later down the line. You will also notice that the radios will offer voltage specs on their outputs I.E. 2 volt, 3 volt, 4 volt, 5 volt.... this does matter when adding an amplifier. The higher the voltage, the cleaner and signal, the better the sound. If your building a sound system for a boat, a 4 channel or greater amp is pretty much a necessity. Most aftermarket radios have outputs of only 22 watts RMS. On a boat with alot of free air, this isnt loud at all. You have to ask yourself how much you want to spend on the project. There is a science behind building a sound system and everything should be paired together accordingly....and price DOES matter. In the electronics world, you really do get what you pay for. I would say 60-75 watts is where you wanna be for a boat. At this power, it would be as loud as you want it to be. Lets just assume that were shooting for 65 watts, when looking for speakers, search for a decent set(s) that list the power rating at 65 watts RMS (not max). You will have a choice of getting component sets (Mid-driver and tweeter are seperate and include a crossover to isolate frequencies between the two for good sound) or Coaxial sets which house the tweeter and mid-driver on the same unit. Components typically have better power handling and better sound. After your speakers are picked out, you want to pair it with a decent amp. Assuming were using 4 speakers, we would choose a 4 channel class AB amp. You would want it to produce 60-70 watts x 4 RMS not max (60-70 watts per each channel). Marine speakers are available also if this is for salt water. They sound just as good as the car audio stuff. Note: MAX and RMS are 2 different things....dont pay attention to the MAX rating of anything, those values will never be achieved in real world conditions. Distortion is your enemy. You will blow a speaker quicker and easier under-powering it then you would over- powering it. Speakers are NOT designed to handle bass, only mid-bass and highs...they are not subwoofers so dont expect them to be. If you want more bass response add a sub. If you have the money for the addition, go for it! you will thank yourself later. The same power rules apply with subs. To power a sub, a class D amp will be used unless you turn to a 5 channel amp that has outputs for 4 speakers and a dedicated subwoofer output.
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To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. World record holder for Quickest and Fastest 1/4 mile Spyder, 4 cylinder vert, 1st in 10's, 2.0L 4G63 Holset record, Modified Mag December 2010, Self built, self tuned. Last edited by assault187; 09-29-2010 at 07:53 PM. |
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#3 | |
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TST Ruined My Life!
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moved this the Exterior, Interior, and Electrical because it has good info and could spark some good convo
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Dan - 94 Integra "Panda" GSR/LS (crashed to finished in < 30 days) - 96 Integra (Totaled 5/28/2011) - 91 MR2 Turbo (SOLD) - 91 MR2 n/a (SOLD) Quote:
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#4 |
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TST Ruined My Life!
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This is basic info that you can just google...
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2014 Mustang GT performance package, M6, Brembo brakes, Torsen diff with 3.73, Steeda CAI with 101mm MAF, ST coilovers with caster/camber plates, BMR lower control arms, BMR watts link, BMW sway bars with end links, front brake cooling ducts, SR short shiffter, and custom tuned |
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