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makaofox · 01-13-2012, 11:55 AM

Well I jut noticed I didnt update about my brakes so here is the whole write up I did.

This is a write up I made, I was given permission by edan to post this.

Silver Mine Motors Rear Conversion Kit

This kit includes everything you will need to install into your z. Some situations might need some modification that will be on, YOU, the owner.

Edan is the owner of Silver Mine Motors, which produces fabulous products for the s30 chassis as well as other models. He mostly sells brake products but also sells some suspension components. His products are cheapest and he does his best to keep it that way. If you happen to find a brake kit cheaper, send him the link and he will match it! Edan has amazing customer service and responds to his emails/calls quickly. Check out his website to order your kit!

http://www.silverminemotors.com/main.sc

Facts about this kit:

-You should really upgrade to a 15/16 master cylinder OR the more available 1inch master cylinder. This is important if you already upgraded your front brakes. You should also consider a proportioning valve.

-My 15inch panasport wheels (15x6) WILL NOT FIT. The minimum is a 15inch wheel HOWEVER it will depend on the WIDTH and OFFSET of the wheel. In consideration is also the design of the wheel. Some spoke design might be to concave, and hit against the caliper. Too much of an inward design will hit the caliper, be sure to test fit the wheels.

-First things first, I have a 76 280z so other years might differ slightly.

Tools you will need:

19mm: wrench.

17mm: wrench.

14mm: wrench.

10mm: wrench.

Sawzall: cut backing plate.

Screw driver.

Cotter pins: Have a couple. They don’t need to be large, medium or smaller ones work fine.

Rubber mallet or 5lb mallet: Optional to beat out your drums.

PB Blaster: This is your friend use this A LOT.

Needle nose plier.

Getting started:

1-First off, more than likely your drums are stuck onto your car. So use the mallet to beat the drum off the stub axel. If it breaks off (the drum) it is ok, the parts are not going to be used any more.

2-Once the drum is off, you will be looking at the brake shoes and springs, as well as the cylinder holding the parking brake cable.

3-Behind the backing plate are the hard lines for the parking brake. These are no longer needed and must be removed. The only line needed is the hardline from the main braking system. Be careful removing the parking brake hard lines, and then remove the parking brake cable, save the bolt that holds it in place. Push the cable aside, as it will be needed later on.

4-With the screw driver or needle nose, remove the springs carefully of the brake shoes and it will come off.

5-Once the brake shoes are off you will be able to see 4 bolts that are holding the backing plate in place. Remove those carefully. They are not in the best position, so they will be prone to stripping if you aren’t careful.

6-Once the backing plate is loose it is now ready to cut. If it isn’t loose, hit it a few times with the mallet until it is loose.

7-Once loosed, CAREFULLY use the sawzall to cut the backing plate in two sections. It is best to cut in a “V” shape on both sides and bend the plate repeatedly to snap off. If done carefully, you should hit nothing and it should come off fairly easily. Again be CAREFUL not to hit the stub axel or the parking brake cable, or even your brake line hose.

8-After the backing plate is removed, you should have all the pieces of the old braking system in a pile and ready for the new kit to go in.

9-The kit is very easy to install, I recommend ordering the stainless steel brake lines.

10-The mounting bracket should have the “silver mine” logo facing toward the differential and should be mounted opposite of your strut assembly. Use the 3 bolts with lock washers and bolt it in place with the 17mm wrench.

11-With the bracket in place, put the rotor on and use the lug nuts to hold it in place.

12-Put the caliper in place with the pads in it already and use the 2 bolts to bolt in the caliper, 19mm wrench. If you have the stainless steel line, screw that into the caliper before you bolt it in the bracket. Then screw it into the hardline.

13-Now the parking cable is ready to be installed. The cable is held on a bracket to avoid rubbing against the driveshaft. If necessary, remove the bracket to obtain proper length and install the parking brake cable, using the previous bolt to hold it in with a cotter pin.

-With all that done, you are ready to drive! Go to an open area with no traffic to test it out.

Special thanks to Edan at Silver Mine Motors for providing a great kit and pictures. Also a special thanks to David Palermo for providing great pictures.

Pictures now:

My Silvermine motors rear calipers: Mustang 05-10 calipers. DO AT EVERY BRAKE PAD CHANGE.

Here it is: http://www.stangmafia.com/forum/f59/...ake-pads-6541/

Here is how I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2007 GT500.

Here is a list of tools and supplies used for the install:

1. 3/8" drive ratchet handle with extensions as needed
2. Metric Sockets: 13mm standard
3. Torque Wrench - 3/8" drive
4. Brake caliper tool

Notes: Prior to starting I had washed the wheels to reduce the dust and wore a particle mask to avoid breathing in the dust (nasty stuff).

I also released the parking brake prior to starting.

Remove the two guide pin bolts with a 13mm socket. Then remove and secure the caliper with a short bungee cord. See the fifth picture below for a suggested anchor point.

I understand you don't need to remove the lower bolt to replace the pads; perhaps just loosen enough to allow the caliper to swing out. This way the caliper is more stable when resetting the piston. But I removed both bolts when I replaced my pads.

Here is the caliper tool I used to reset the piston; got it at Harbor Freight for about $20. I used the #5 adapter plate, whose pins fit the keyed notches on the piston surface.

You have to turn the piston in a clockwise direction while applying forward pressure with the tool. The backing plate on the tool pushes against the opposite side of the caliper while turning the handle. It can take substantial force to turn the pistons; wearing mechanics gloves while turning the handle helps. My hands are still aching.

Here's what the piston looks like when compressed back into the caliper.

The piston must be oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below).

Remove the old brake pads and spring clips.

Assemble in reverse with new pads and spring clips then replace the caliper and snug down the guide pin bolts. See notes below on the application of caliper grease.

There is a flat spot on the opening of the guide pins that must be aligned with a flat edge on the caliper mounting flange as shown here.

Torque down the guide pin bolts to 24 lb-ft in the following order:

* RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt
* LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt

Here's what the rear brake looks like all assembled.

I didn't apply any caliper grease at the time, but I intend to go back and apply some synthetic caliper grease to the areas of the pads (back surface only) that come into contact with the caliper and piston.

Caution: After servicing the brakes, be sure to pump the brakes as many times as needed to make sure they are firm and effective before putting the car into gear.

Some added facts, The panasports now fit. They were 15x7 0+ offset and I got a 30mm spacer with studs and it clears. I could have gotten a 20mm but I wanted to be safe. She pokes like hell but I will be going zg flares eventually. For now just a roll so that the car car at least run, once the motor is back.

01-13-2012, 11:55 AM	#15
makaofox Tri-State Aficionado Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Hillside, NJ Member #19346 My Ride: 1976 Datsun 280z iTrader: (0)	Well I jut noticed I didnt update about my brakes so here is the whole write up I did. This is a write up I made, I was given permission by edan to post this. Silver Mine Motors Rear Conversion Kit This kit includes everything you will need to install into your z. Some situations might need some modification that will be on, YOU, the owner. Edan is the owner of Silver Mine Motors, which produces fabulous products for the s30 chassis as well as other models. He mostly sells brake products but also sells some suspension components. His products are cheapest and he does his best to keep it that way. If you happen to find a brake kit cheaper, send him the link and he will match it! Edan has amazing customer service and responds to his emails/calls quickly. Check out his website to order your kit! http://www.silverminemotors.com/main.sc Facts about this kit: -You should really upgrade to a 15/16 master cylinder OR the more available 1inch master cylinder. This is important if you already upgraded your front brakes. You should also consider a proportioning valve. -My 15inch panasport wheels (15x6) WILL NOT FIT. The minimum is a 15inch wheel HOWEVER it will depend on the WIDTH and OFFSET of the wheel. In consideration is also the design of the wheel. Some spoke design might be to concave, and hit against the caliper. Too much of an inward design will hit the caliper, be sure to test fit the wheels. -First things first, I have a 76 280z so other years might differ slightly. Tools you will need: 19mm: wrench. 17mm: wrench. 14mm: wrench. 10mm: wrench. Sawzall: cut backing plate. Screw driver. Cotter pins: Have a couple. They don’t need to be large, medium or smaller ones work fine. Rubber mallet or 5lb mallet: Optional to beat out your drums. PB Blaster: This is your friend use this A LOT. Needle nose plier. Getting started: 1-First off, more than likely your drums are stuck onto your car. So use the mallet to beat the drum off the stub axel. If it breaks off (the drum) it is ok, the parts are not going to be used any more. 2-Once the drum is off, you will be looking at the brake shoes and springs, as well as the cylinder holding the parking brake cable. 3-Behind the backing plate are the hard lines for the parking brake. These are no longer needed and must be removed. The only line needed is the hardline from the main braking system. Be careful removing the parking brake hard lines, and then remove the parking brake cable, save the bolt that holds it in place. Push the cable aside, as it will be needed later on. 4-With the screw driver or needle nose, remove the springs carefully of the brake shoes and it will come off. 5-Once the brake shoes are off you will be able to see 4 bolts that are holding the backing plate in place. Remove those carefully. They are not in the best position, so they will be prone to stripping if you aren’t careful. 6-Once the backing plate is loose it is now ready to cut. If it isn’t loose, hit it a few times with the mallet until it is loose. 7-Once loosed, CAREFULLY use the sawzall to cut the backing plate in two sections. It is best to cut in a “V” shape on both sides and bend the plate repeatedly to snap off. If done carefully, you should hit nothing and it should come off fairly easily. Again be CAREFUL not to hit the stub axel or the parking brake cable, or even your brake line hose. 8-After the backing plate is removed, you should have all the pieces of the old braking system in a pile and ready for the new kit to go in. 9-The kit is very easy to install, I recommend ordering the stainless steel brake lines. 10-The mounting bracket should have the “silver mine” logo facing toward the differential and should be mounted opposite of your strut assembly. Use the 3 bolts with lock washers and bolt it in place with the 17mm wrench. 11-With the bracket in place, put the rotor on and use the lug nuts to hold it in place. 12-Put the caliper in place with the pads in it already and use the 2 bolts to bolt in the caliper, 19mm wrench. If you have the stainless steel line, screw that into the caliper before you bolt it in the bracket. Then screw it into the hardline. 13-Now the parking cable is ready to be installed. The cable is held on a bracket to avoid rubbing against the driveshaft. If necessary, remove the bracket to obtain proper length and install the parking brake cable, using the previous bolt to hold it in with a cotter pin. -With all that done, you are ready to drive! Go to an open area with no traffic to test it out. Special thanks to Edan at Silver Mine Motors for providing a great kit and pictures. Also a special thanks to David Palermo for providing great pictures. Pictures now: My Silvermine motors rear calipers: Mustang 05-10 calipers. DO AT EVERY BRAKE PAD CHANGE. Here it is: http://www.stangmafia.com/forum/f59/...ake-pads-6541/ Here is how I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2007 GT500. Here is a list of tools and supplies used for the install: 1. 3/8" drive ratchet handle with extensions as needed 2. Metric Sockets: 13mm standard 3. Torque Wrench - 3/8" drive 4. Brake caliper tool Notes: Prior to starting I had washed the wheels to reduce the dust and wore a particle mask to avoid breathing in the dust (nasty stuff). I also released the parking brake prior to starting. Remove the two guide pin bolts with a 13mm socket. Then remove and secure the caliper with a short bungee cord. See the fifth picture below for a suggested anchor point. I understand you don't need to remove the lower bolt to replace the pads; perhaps just loosen enough to allow the caliper to swing out. This way the caliper is more stable when resetting the piston. But I removed both bolts when I replaced my pads. Here is the caliper tool I used to reset the piston; got it at Harbor Freight for about $20. I used the #5 adapter plate, whose pins fit the keyed notches on the piston surface. You have to turn the piston in a clockwise direction while applying forward pressure with the tool. The backing plate on the tool pushes against the opposite side of the caliper while turning the handle. It can take substantial force to turn the pistons; wearing mechanics gloves while turning the handle helps. My hands are still aching. Here's what the piston looks like when compressed back into the caliper. The piston must be oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below). Remove the old brake pads and spring clips. Assemble in reverse with new pads and spring clips then replace the caliper and snug down the guide pin bolts. See notes below on the application of caliper grease. There is a flat spot on the opening of the guide pins that must be aligned with a flat edge on the caliper mounting flange as shown here. Torque down the guide pin bolts to 24 lb-ft in the following order: * RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt * LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt Here's what the rear brake looks like all assembled. I didn't apply any caliper grease at the time, but I intend to go back and apply some synthetic caliper grease to the areas of the pads (back surface only) that come into contact with the caliper and piston. Caution: After servicing the brakes, be sure to pump the brakes as many times as needed to make sure they are firm and effective before putting the car into gear. Some added facts, The panasports now fit. They were 15x7 0+ offset and I got a 30mm spacer with studs and it clears. I could have gotten a 20mm but I wanted to be safe. She pokes like hell but I will be going zg flares eventually. For now just a roll so that the car car at least run, once the motor is back. __________________ Be sure to visit our page and join our group on Facebook! New Jersey Z Car Club: NJZCC 76' Datsun 280z Build Thread: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.