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Been there, done that.
Re-did all the grounds, 4ga from engine to chassis, 0 from batt to ground, multiple grounding point re-done with 8ga at all the factory engine points, no radio hooked up, fuel pump is 10 gauge through a relay direct to battery. Also checked the resistance points from battery to all ground points, and they are reading the min that my metwer will read(.02 ohms)
The only active(at all times) electronics is the turbo timer, and probally a small drain to the ECU. Other than that, theres no radio, subs, amps, a/c, neons, big mouth bass, or extra widgets in the car.
No change in alternator output when the headlights are on or off, or if all the accesories are on, defrost, blower, wipers, and interior lights.
It used to put out 14.4, but now only puts out 13.1 if i am lucky. Typically it is around 12.5.
I've had the alternators fail all sorts of ways, they were not always the same style of failure, the first one (90 amp from advanced)worked fine for a while, but it just up and died. Got another one real quick from a parts house while advance got my new one in, this one developed low voltage output after a day or so. The warrantied one was installed, and lasted overnight until i got to work, where it died on the way home.(I still have their last "new"warranty one sitting on my shelf). Its replacement it worked for almost a year, but the thrust bearings failed(not from too much tension on the belt, double checked that) and the fan started grinding into the case. Its warrantied replacement is the current one and has lasted a little over a year.
Two alternators within a week really miffed me, and i thought that i finally had gotten a good one.
I'm not blowing them up on reconnect either, as i disconnect neg terminal from battery.
ITs getting to be too much of a hassle. I'd rather mess with my duster, or ride my bikes.
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2001 Dakota Quad Cab, 1996 Ford F250, 1993 Honda Civic, 1991 Eagle Talon, 1970 Plymouth Duster.
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