Hmm thats not a bad idea to do some before and after dyno runs... if I can fit that in I will. The current piggyback I'm running isn't tuned since I haven't had a chance with all the other bs, but I'm planning to switch to something much simpler to set up which performs quite well for a lot of guys who are in the sub 800 whp range, so hopefully I can get that installed and have the car running well quick and easy.
And I agree, the cam gears are probably not necessary, nor is degreeing the cams. I don't know, but I got the Jun cam gears brand new for almost half off today so I figured that was a sign. I could just do the cams only, but valve seals go bad on a ton of 2JZs especially as they near 100k miles so I figure might as well while I'm in there, and if I'm gonna be removing the stock springs/retainers then what the hell. Haha I know I know... but that's my train of thought. Figure its kind of a pain in the ass install so might as well just do it once and bang it out.
Oh and I'm definitely learning this valvetrain stuff as I go but in case you're curious, HKS Cams for the 2JZ are:
256 duration, 8.7 mm lift
264 duration, 9.0 mm lift
272 duration, 9.3 mm lift
280 duration, 9.3 mm lift
This is HKS's hp chart for their cams in the 2JZ... unfortunately they dont list details on the setup, but it wouldn't be possible to hit 500 whp at 1 bar of boost without a single turbo upgrade. I'm sure at higher boost the differences would start to show more.