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Originally Posted by Cincy
HARDWARE
MANIFOLD
Each manifold needs to match the turbine housing used. You cant run a T25 or T3 turbo on the other manifold and definitely not the stock manifold.
Manifolds are madein two styles.
CAST: These manifolds are made of cast iron and are used for their durabilitly and ability to handle the heat cycles (heat up and down) over and over. These manifolds will most often outlast the car if they are made well. However, they are very heavy and often timestrade flow for turbo placement. For best results, make sure the runners do not fire against each other and wastegate placement is close to the flange.
TUBULAR: These manifolds are made out of mild or stainless steel. They can be either very strong or very weak depending on the materials used and howthey werewelded. When it comes to these types of manifolds, you often get what you pay for. A cheap eBay manifold will often crack withen a short period of time after install and should never be used. Please use repitable brands such as FULL-RACE and 034motorsports. They both are made with the finest materials and F-R uses robotic welding to insure a perfect weld. It is also advised to support the turbo to prevent cracking of the manifold.F-R manifoldsalso come with a lifetime warrenty. The biggest benifits of these manifoldsare they flow far better and make a huge increase in power with a larger frame turbo (gt30+). But they do sacrafice a little low end power and increase lag a couple 100rpms.
Bobqzzi's Full Race / ATP Comparrison Dynos
GT30R
Compressor 76.2mm, 56 Trim .60 ar
Turbine 60mm, 84 Trim, .82 a/r
AER Stadalone Management (England)
Both Pulls @ 23.5 psi
Superflow Engine Dyno
Full Race
hp - red
tq - teal
ATP
hp - blue
tq - green
TWIN SCROLL
Not a widely used item on the 1.8T. Twin scroll creates two exhaust paths instead of one, allowing for increased separation in exhaust flow. This means the manifold needs to have the cyls paired in firing order for best results so there is a constant flow over the turbine wheel instead of a build up of gas. This also helps to preserve the exhaust velocity of each pulse by offering a smaller overall volume to hold each one, so the turbine wheel will spin easier with a lower amount of gas volume compared to a single scroll. This means faster spool ups on larger wheels/turbos on a smaller displacement motor. For best results the manifold needs to be paired and tuned in length and 2 wastegates to vent the exhaust flow so it will cost more and consume more space.
DOWNPIPE
Just like the manifolds above, the downpipes must match the turbine housing used and also the manifold used. They are not a mix and match part. You will want atleast a 3" dp and made of either a stainless or mild steel. V-bands make the removal/install of the dp far easier.
OIL AND COOLENT LINES
All turbos will need new oil lines and if the turbo has water lines, it is advised to use them (see turbo tech 101 again). To start, the block will need a new fitting to go from a banjo bolt to a -4an fitting. Then a 4ft -4an line to a restrictor in the turbo. The return needs the return fittingor tapped for a -10 line or larger. Then you can either modify the stock hardpipe or buy a atp pan adapter. Coolent lines are easier, you need the matching banjo bolts and line.
INTAKE
Self explanitory. Just make sure you use a intake that will exceed the flow of the turbo.
GASKETS
Some gaskets are a good idea and insome locations they can be eliminatedto cut the risk of blowing them out and having an exhaust leak
Use gaskets: head -manifold
Dont use gaskets: manfold-> turbo, turbo - dp, external wastegate - manifold
WASTEGATE
A turbo will either come with a internal wastegate or require an external one. If the turbo requires an external, you will need to have a manifold that comes withflange built in. Then you will also have to use the same size wastegate used since the fittings are differnt. What people dont often understand, is that bigger isnt always needed when it comes to wastegates. The higher the boost used,the smaller the wastegate can be. Since you are using about all of the psi the turbo is capable of making, the wastegate doesnt have much to vent. Since most 1.8t's will boost ~20psi give or take, a internal and 38mm or 44mm for very large turbos will be fine.
INTERCOOLER
NOT ALL CORES ARE EQUAL!! When it comes to ic's, you really do get what you pay for. Sure an eBay core will cool the temps down, but not nearly as well as a name brand core. This loses power 2 ways. First is by having higher iat's (cooler air is denser) and the other by having timing pulled do to the higher iat's. You want a core that is matched for the amount of power you are running. A core that is to small wont cool enough and a core to large will cause pressure drop. Same goes for piping, proper sizing is needed to reduce lag and pressure drop. The rule of thumb is to use the turbo outlet size either all the way around or to the ic and then .25" increase to the TB. It depends more on the size of turbo used and TB size.
RODS
These become a must for those looking to make big power. It is recommend that people install rods with gt2871r turbos and larger. If you dont, you are on risking blowing your engine and will sooner than later. What rods you need are based on the engine code you have or piston you plan on using if you change pistons also (for c/r and/or bore). The ATC/AMU/BEA engines all use 144/20mm (length/pin size) rods. The most popular of these are Scat H-beam rods. They are strong enough to hold around 600whp+ (no deffinate power set yet) and are affordable. For those with AWP engine, youneed 144/19mm H-beam rods, Integrated Engineering (IE) makes drop in rods for you. The 19mm wrist pinrods however will put more strain on the bearings and due to the taper design make them a little weaker than the 20mm wrist pin rods. Plenty strong for those looking for up to and over 500whp. Of course there are stronger and nicer x-beam rods from Carrillo and Pauter, but at 3x the price of scats/IE, they are only really needed for those looking for very large numbers.
PISTONS
Not really a must, but when you start going with larger turbos, its a good idea to increase bore size and consider dropping the c/r. The increase in bore will help spool the turbo faster and also help increase base hp (means more power throughout the powerband). With the lowering of the c/r, you can also increase the psi used on pump and increase timing some. However, this does lower base hp and off turbo response. So it is a trade off but does make it safer to tune.
SOFTWARE/TUNE
This is just as important as the the hardware. If you cheap out on the sw you will suffer in performance and possibly risk harm to the turbo and engine. Please go with a tune from a repitable chip tuner. The main tuners are again Unitronic, Eurodyne/Tapp, Revo, and Giac (APR of course, but only sold in the kits). Also you must go with a file that uses injectors that are a good match for the turbo used and all the parts required for that tune (ie: MAF, injectors, fpr).
popular file sizes
440cc
550cc
630cc
870cc
1000cc
1200cc
For those wanting something not off the self can invest in a stand alone engine management system. These sem's either replace or use factory sensors and takes control of running the engine from the ecu. They are perfect for those using a nontypical turbo or going bigger than what the chip tunes have reached yet. However you will need a capable tuner to tune the car and also pay for plenty of dyno time to get it right. With all of this, the cost adds up fast so its not for everyone.
FUELING
INJECTORS
With the upgrade in power you will need to change out stock fueling. The stock injectors will be maxed out with the stock turbo. Depending on what turbo, power levels, and tune you go with will determine the injectors used.
Good guide to sizing:
440cc: 330whp
580cc: 380whp
630cc: 430whp
750cc: 500whp
870cc: 600whp
Also you will need high impedance, wide angle spray pattern injectors. If not, your idle and fuel mixture will be bad. Please stick with genisis and siemas deka injectors. RC's also seem to work well on the 1.8t. Please avoid the 440cc greentops, they cause a bad idle and dont match the factory spray pattern.
FUEL PUMP
You will also need to add in a inline fuel pump. For 500hp (not whp) cars, a walbro 255lph inline pump will be plenty. For those looking for more, a bosch 044 pump will support around 700hp. There is a problem with most aftermarket intake pumps, they often starve for gas when the tank is less than 1/4 tank. So its best and cheapest to just add in a inline pump. Also keep in mind that after you get to around 500whp, you will also be forced to increase the size of the fuel line and also even do a surge tank so you dont starve for fuel.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
In most tunes, the stock 3 bar will be used. However, if you do use a differnt size injectors (550cc @4bar = 630cc) or reach the limit of the current injectors, you can increase fuel pressure to increase the cc rating. A adjustable fpr would also be a good idea to help maximize a tune along with unisettings.
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