Car dies when u touch the gas
 

So i just finished installing my T25 and i go to start the car and BAM
starts right up... awesome
I go to rev the car and it dies...
start it again and touch the gas... almost dies but comes back...
The car idles veryyyy smoothly and at 1000 rpm without IACV...
timing is right, TPS sensor is brand new and adjusted right,
I have 15psi of vacuum at idle which is prolly from a broken t bolt clamp but would it really cause that much of a problem?
Could I have a bad MAF?
whats going on???

1000 rpm idle? why no IAC?

how is your fuel pressure?

i havent really messed with the idle but no iac to make the manifold cleaner and easier to work on... its a track car

34 psi... i have an adjustable FPR
it idles smooth and no black smoke or anything... wideband comes tomorrow to verify my AFR

34psi? On an SR? I run 43psi at idle on my sr with T28...

you need an IAC (IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE) to idle. unless you can program it some other way.

Cant just do away with that.....

The IAC is the Idle Air Control valve. It makes your car........idle :mrgreen:

unplug your maf and see if it does the same thing. thats exactly what my car did when the maf went bad

Nick... your car may still stall out with the MAF disconnected...

I would assume that your hacked up wire harness could be the problem.. Id check the voltage\resistance of the MAF signal wire at the ECU and right after the MAF....

Forgot to tell you my setup

KA24DET T25, 370cc injectors, Stock MAF, FMIC, Completely Bare Intake manifold (NO emissions no IACV no coolant lines, nothing) adjustable FPR set at 36psi at idle

I opened the throttle about 2%.. i know a few ppl who have done it and the car runs fine

Im sorry 36psi is correct for a stock KA... 43psi is with no vacuum for a stock KA... i figured id start there

When i unplugged it nothing happened

definate possibility cuz my pigtail is all effed up

Ok so i didnt touch anything (i dont think)
ok so now i have a different problem...
go to start the car... and crank crank crank vroooo---fail...
okkk... so then i step on the gas and start the car.... it revs to 3500 sputters and dies...
tightened all the tbolt clamps cept for the one thats broke.

does this make sense?

Whats up with your ECU? can you get any diagnostics out of it?


Can you log data from it?

you can get rid of a IAC on a track car, all the iac does is raise and lower the idle under different conditions...

warm the car up set your throttle stop screw at 1500rpms set your tps to .3-.5 volts closed and there ya go...

troof...

Nah its just a stock ECU with a ROM Tune... and im not throwing any codes so idk whats up... come to think of it... ive never thrown any codes... wait.... i think i did once. and it went away in the 3 seconds.

Is this a inital ka-t setup?..if so go over thing over and over. Pull out plugs see if they're fouled/wet..
If it revs to 3k maf should be okay. maf safe mode is 2500rpm
-15 is pretty low definate vacuum leak and car running rich. If you need any help hit me with a pm. :cool:

sounds like maf - or the ecu needs tuning very badly - did you change to a z or n60 or anything like that?

you can use a consult cable and check its sensors, diagnostics, and codes...

If your coupler is leaking AFTER the maf it could easily cause this problem. If its sucking in air that isn't metered by the MAF its going to make the ecu say "wtf where did all this air come from I wasn't expecting this".

And to all the guys saying you NEED a iac - lolololololololol

I just talked to LJ the other day and he told me to ask you to tune my car lol
The ECU came off a running KAT setup identical to mine so im going to assume the ECU is good but i guess you never know... Its currently tuned for a stock MAF


Im going to run to the junkyard and pull a new MAF and pigtail later and I guess we'll see where we're at after that... I got my new t-bolt clamp from Extreme PSI so hopefully that will have taken care of my leaks