DSM guys, what should my ET be??
 

Ok, now before you bash me, dont. i dont want your stupid responses. Im trying to get a idea of my ET. If you dont have any input, dont reply to this thread with stupid comments. I dont have the option of going to the track, its closed for the season). Here is my current setup. Any "guesstimate" would be cool.

JDM 6Bolt
HKS 264/272 Cams
550cc injectors
ported head
walbro 255 fuel pump
Turbo XS MBC
balance shaft elimanator kit
ported o2 housing
2g exhaust manifold
Custom 3 inch cat back exhuast (no cat)
Custom 2 1/2 inch downpipe
2 1/4 upper intercooler piping
2g MAS
2g chrome Intake
2g throttle body elbow
NGK sparkplugs
msd sparkplug wires
Professionally Tuned by Sav Leone at Import Performance

Transmission:
Galant Vr-4 Tansmission 20k miles
ACT lightened flyweel

(View my garage to see my full list of mods)

I have a SAFC that was used to tune the car. Im still stuck on the stock 14b, but not for long. Im just curious on the potential of my car, just wanna know what kinda times to expect.

It all comes down to tuning and driving. You could pull a 12 or you could get a 14. My advice is to get that 14b off ASAP and you will see a huge difference.

As-is with 14b and stock 6cm turbine housing and pump gas, 13.2. With race gas, 12.9. With HKS VPC, 12.6. With ported 16g/7cm turbine housing and VPC 12.2.

These are just best-average numbers with good driving, tune (no boost leaks and not exhaust leaks pre-o2 housing) and cold weather! I'd get rid of the MSD spark plug wires. Stock, NGK or Magnecores are the only decent wires out there for DSMs. You also need a AFPR cause your stock FPR is too small and will cause weird spikes in your fuel pressure.

As you might know there are cars out there running the stockish turbo into the 11's. These cars are gutted and over-spinning the poor turbo. There are also 16g cars out there running 14.5s spitting fuel out the back.

Get a VPC, adjustable FPR, front mount, Evo 3 16g, and ACT 2600 clutch with race gas you will be in the 11s!

Btw, I have no idea who Sav Leone is. Does he have a fast DSM?

I have a 16g turbine housing , but a 14b turbo.

PS. http://www.savleone.com/

2004
8th Car in Class History to run in the 8 Sec ¼ Mil
· National Runner Up 2nd in Points IDRC Quick Class
· Winner NDRA Finals, Fontana, Ca
· Winner IDRC All Star Nationals, Atco, NJ
· #1 Qualifier NDRA Houston, Tx
· Runner Up IDRC Budds Creek, MD
· Career Best ET 8.80 @167 mph #3 Qualifier 2003 NHRA World Finals

.
In 2000, he had the worlds fastest SOHC civic.

Just wondering how much IMPO charged you? Like 2k? They wanted to charge me like 8k to do a B16 swap. I laughed in their face and walked out.

Oh, and I would think you should be able to hit high 12's/low 13's. It really depends on how well it is running and how you drive.

x2

i would to lol

The 7cm turbine housing is good for top end but the 14b compressor wheel is going to run out of air, especially with the HKS cams. I'm going to guess your max boost is going to drop to below 20 in 3rd towards 6k rpm.

Your setup would benefit a lot from nitrous! :)






Reason I say is cause your motor and exhaust can handle a lot of air flow... more so than the little 14 compressor can handle.

What is the max psi i can run on a 14b, with my setup. Because i was told its 19, MAX and thats for a run or two, not daily driving. If your saying i can run more then 20psi, i have never heard that before. My turbo only has 40k on it so i dont wanna **** it up, running to much boost.

yea, no nitrous on this end. i just dont like nitrous, im was never a fan of it. so yea.

IMPO charged me $1,283 for the following:
- Take apart the motor, clean it (metal shavings), and reassemble it.
- 2 New oil return lines
- New Oil Pan and gasket
- HKS 264 Intake 272 Exhaust Cams
- Weld my exhaust into one peice (previous owner had the exhaust clamped lol)
- New Cotter Pin for the Wasgate Actuator
- New Oil Filter
- New Driverside Front axel bearing
- New Timing Belt
- New Timing Belt Tensioner
- Change all Dif. Fluids (Rear, front, trans fluid, xfercase fluid)
- Cut the intake pipe to make room for a filter (Previous owner had a stocking on there because of the 2g intake and 2g mas, there was no room for a filter.)
- Retune and Retime the car
- New Greddy Turbo Timer Wiring Harness , Reinstall the TT.
- Rewire some coolant wires that were exposed under the hood.

I think all of that , plus labor for $1,283 is a really good deal. That price includes the cams, which were $589. Should be done tomarrow. hopefully.... if i have it back , il be down "shopping" at franklin mills on sunday.

Did someone say shopping....

i think i did :mrgreen: .. wanna help me shop ( :roll: )on sunday barry? lol

sounds good too me... i will be tired as hell but whatever nothing alittle coffee won't fix.

or some Red Balls.. "Its Crack In a Can BABY!!"... lol, but yea, il prob. be there around 8:45. dont they usually get there around 9.

You think i know... and its bulls buddy.

im confused on this statement

balls , i was referring to the crack head skit on dave chapelle, he calls it red balls, and says its crack in a can baby. lol.

Tuning and dyno time? or no?

IMPO are crap, alot of bad reps about the mechanics, not the owner....

Take it somewhere else bro, where they arent gonna blow it up....

I have known sav for like 2 years now, he is working on my car, nobody else. just him. so im not worried.

I'm gonna steer WAAAY clear of any IMPO comments. I ran 12.12 @ 112.1 on a nearly identical setup. This was on a SMIC, 14b, HKS 272s, full 2.5", stock hacked MAF, 5 knob AFC, 550s, Denso pump, and little else on a mostly full weight 1G AWD. Boost was hitting around 23 and dropping to 18 by 6k, shifting by 6500. This was on VP 103 unleaded gas. Best on straight pump gas was around 12.4 @ 108.

I'm thinking with good driving, a 13.3 @103, if you run at E-town with near full weight in the car.