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Need help with turbo oil line routing... PICS Inside
Just finished putting together a turbo kit with a TD05H 14b and I need help routing the oil line and Coolant Lines. I'd like to know what you think.... here are some pics of it mocked up on my old motor to check fitament...
(I still need to clock the center cartridge so it is "upside down" compared to the stock DSM's) I think I have two options for the Oil Drain, in front of the downpipe or behind it. How high of heat can that High temp line take? Maybe there is heatwrap shielding I can wrap it in? I am thinking I can make a bracket either way to hold the line either close to the block if I run behind the DP... http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...edOilLines.jpg In Front... http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...ainInFront.jpg Behind... http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...dOilDrain5.jpg If I go behind I am thinking of using this DSM Drain Line to make the 90 degree turn... http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...leSolution.jpg For the Feed Line I have two options, which is better? Tap the Greddy Oil Block Adapter or use the OEM port on the housing? http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...edSolution.jpg And lastly the Coolant.... Not sure which of these to tap into? http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...cationGood.jpg |
Anyone? I want to start getting the parts I need together for this by the weekend....
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Think this is good for the drain line?
5/8" ID Aeroquip Socketless black hose It says it is good for up to 200 degree Fahrenheit, is that enough? Then I am thinking about wrapping the manifold with Thermotec header wrap and possibly looking for some kind of thermal sleeve for the Drain Line.... |
bump (?)
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wow I wish I could help. it seems like your the only one postin in your thread.
I have no Idea whats goin on there, so just consider this a free bump. |
I suggest not to use the old DSM drain line. If you do, use a brand new one or just get some stainless or socketless lines with some adapters.
Are the ports on the filter adapter before or after filtration? |
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Whatever you do, it does not look like fun..
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Okay so you are saying to use the spot on the Greddy block instead of the housing because the Greddy tap will be supplying clean oil?
Second, 95nracer--I agree I scrapped that idea. I think I am going to weld-in a bung then fing a fitting that will make that same 90 degree turn. |
I would NOT use rubber in an area that is that close to the downpipe, it wouldn't take much for the hose to get too hot and cause some serious problems.
Why not bend up some 1/2" or 3/4" copper tubing? You can get decent compression fittings from many hydraulic stores, and you wouldn't have to worry about deterioting rubber. |
hmmm....interesting idea I guess I could do that... what do you mean by compression fittings? How would I connect hard copper line to the drain flange of the turbo?
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ok here is what i would do
http://usera.imagecave.com/revitup/MockedOilLines.jpg the brown simulates hard stainless line sort of like the oem tube get some aluminum tubing and bend it to shape and have someone weld it to your oilpan this will eliminate the worries of having the return line melt. then have the rubber return line straignt down. the nice thing about the stainless tubing is that is easily bendable. oil feed is ok. |
use this company and look at their pictures, you can the get a small pipe bender http://www.inlinetube.com/ocatalog.htm
you can even use a flare on the end by the oil pan and use a flare nut |
hey just FYI, my old oil drain line ran parallel to my uppipe (manifold) with in some spots a cm inbetween. No problems. but yeah hard line is safer
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also looking at my diagram i would bring up the hard line closer to the turbo. if you need help let me know i know where to buy the line the flare tool and the fitting for the oil pan side. it will be like an oem drain.
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Awesome thanks Ray... I think I am getting your idea...the pan is steel though, so I guess I'll have to use some type of steel tubing that will allow a 10an or 1/2 drain tube to slip over it and clamp... something like this, but a longer tube:
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...boinstall2.jpg http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...yz/42lyphx.jpg http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...c78a8cf955.jpg |
thats it!!!!!!! like i said i know where to get everything if you need me ill go to your house and help you should take us about 3 hours in total to get it perfect then we flair the end by the pan and use a flare nut
heres what you need http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...3-Flaring_Tool http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...52568_-1_10019 |
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nothing gets welded to the pan
we drill and tap the pan install one of these through http://www.tunerschoice.com/eccStore.../6176035_L.jpg then we use a nylon crushwasher and a bolt inside the pan to get this fitting secured. next step the tube gets flaired we will be using a nut like this to attach to the fitting on the pan http://www.tunerschoice.com/eccStore.../6176055_R.jpg now how does this work the tubing gets flaired with the flair tool which means the end of the tube opens up and bends we take the nut and slide it in through the part of the hose we did not flair, once we tighten the nut to the fitting on the pan it compresses the the flair part of the tube as it tightens making it air tight. ill see if i have better pics at home for reffrence |
I completely understand now.... Do you have AOL IM? Are you serious about helping me do this? The car is up at my parents house in Quakertown, I live down in Philly.. I can supply beers and pizza or whatever you want if you wanna give me a hand with it some weekend...
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