KA-T boosting problem
 

Ok the car ran fine for a long time now.I get in and go to work On the way I relize the car is bucking under part thottle just starting to hit boost.the boost gauge was jumpy as it bucked and the turbo made some funny sounds like compressor surge while boosting.(running no blow off valve rite now,so I now what it sounds like.)now if I stab it hard it will move and make boost fine about 80% of the time......iv swaped out the mafs,map sensor and ran all new vacuum lines and made shure all the clamps are tight,my vacuum reads 20 at idle????anyone...oh and the turbo is 6 months old.:help:

nevermind I figured it out.sorry

your car is gay! haha playin

You're going to get a BOV soon, right?

Yeh..I have a stock audi 1.8t valve I will be putting back on.

What was it Jay? By the way, theres a shop out in CA who is nearing completion of a adapter board that will allow you to run an SR20DET Power FC on a KA.

why? You don't need one

Silly me. I always thought compressor surge was bad!

For the turbine? Yes

For response? No

i hate to bump such an old thread but im having similar problems with my ka-t setup..

idle jumps from 1200 to 2000 like im revving it, does this either cold or hot

bogs down and runs VERY rich when boost gets to about 3psi, if i keep pushing the throttle it clears that and the white fuel smoke goes away and hits 6psi (i have a few boost leaks)

i think the bogging down is just the tune, but i cant figure out the idle problem

Ahhh grasshopper your problem is NOT the same.....1st fix ALL boost leaks(pressurize that ish)Go over all grounds and whats your vac @ idle..Whats fuel pressure? theres alot of $hit it could be. pcv stuck blahbllah....What have you checked so far?

Fix all of your vacuum leaks

Set your timing

Ensure MAF is wired correctly

wow, found out tonight that my IACV was so loose it just slid off back and forth...

then when i blew through it i heard a loud whistle..

spent like 30 minutes feeling around and found out that my egr block off plate was not all the way tight... so i took it off , put some loctite 5900 black flange sealant and put it back on.

it was REALLLY hard to start, then when it did it idled at 1000 for about 5 minutes, then right when i assumed it was fixed and got in the idle dropped and it died. i drove it a bit and i think the sealant blew through because now when i put it in neutral it just chokes out and dies...

EGR blockoff plates should use OE EGR gaskets as well, to help prevent blowing out. I also assume you didn't let it sit up long enough...

Is your timing set correctly?

i used the OE gasket, but i dont think the block off plate sealing was the cause for the car dying once warmed, i had to take a hammer and a prybar to get the old gasket material off.... i put it back on with the OE gasket and had the same problem..


what could cause the car to idle perfectly but die once warmed up a bit when in neutral?

unplug your TPS and see if it does it still